Onoff

Loads of how to join vids like this:

Buy the £17 one if you go that route. Even I wouldn't try and make a standard one.

I've seen them just lay the coins and pour on the epoxy.

Scaffold boards biscuit jointed together. You can get new, rejects cheap. You could cut a decent curve and route the edge. Plenty of examples on Pinterest. https://www.simplythenest.com/simplythenestjournal/2018/2/3/how-to-make-kitchen-worktops-from-scaffold-boards

Penny bar top? Doesn't have to be coins, could be brass nuts or st/st washers even in a pattern.

Cast concrete counter tops? Plenty of vids on YouTube.

CE can stand for China Export you realise? Seriously....the mark is subtly different from the "Conformite Europeenne" mark. CEF aren't cheap but the quality is usually there. I paid twice the price for some galv 20mm couplers in a hurry but the steel is twice the thickness. Also service varies from branch to branch.

I think Peter means the CPC paper catalogue they send through every now and again after you buy stuff from them. They have specials in. Toolstation prices will be online...even the specials.

If from CPC then guessing one of these: http://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=v-tac 6w led panel downlight round 3 on that link are 110mm cut out so it'll likely be one of those Peter got. (The other's 75mm). Enlite stuff is great imo. That's what my normal size ones are at the start of the thread. Maintenance free terminals too.

I made a jig to make a breakfast bar. Luckily the pattern is very forgiving. First I grafted rounded edges onto the short end and right hand side of this standard 600mm worktop. The router is your friend to get precise edges to butt together: The jig is o/of 2 pieces of 10mm ali. It does the male and female. It's made specifically for use with the cheap router in the picture: I had to turn down some double ended spacers from ali and fit O rings like on the standard worktop jig: The fit is OK. The inserts were biscuit jointed and glued: I never quite worked out why there was a little "kick" one side. Everything on the CAD model was mirrored and the jig laser cut. One side was perfect: The other had this kick. As a say, lucky I have a forgiving pattern! Meant to revisit and figure why but never did! Tbh it's where we tend to congregate in the kitchen.

Maybe learn Welsh? The wife's uncle married a Welsh girl & learnt the language. They never really accepted him but it kept Meibion Glyndŵr away!

Love it!

Bugger.....man flu!

I was told on here not to use watered down pva on my concrete floor that wasn't to be tiled for a long while. It was just to dustproof it. The against being that once tiled, if water gets through the grout it can soften the pva film under the tile adhesive and the tile can lift. I used watered down sbr instead. Noted it's getting a tad dusty again so it's probably all worn off by now!

Nope, I use te boards. There's one I think te to square cut edge on a short bit.

Cheers, v.helpful. So half teaspoon of cream of tartar in the first set? Mix a full bag for the ceiling? It's nom 3x3m but only about 8sqm in total as I'm leaving inside the cupboard for now.

Trust me I'll get that first set on like Billy Sulphate from Viz! Got the can of Monster and some hard trance all ready!

Just the joints have been done 5:1 with the garden sprayer. Agreed, it's messy! Over to a roller from now on. North facing, Sun less side of the house. It's the coolest room in the house. Open the window and the temperature soon drops hence going a bit ott with the PIR all round. As for levelness over the joints I'll have to put a straight edge with a light behind or something. I got very little fall off the hawk onto the floor. Trick is to wet the hawk then dry it off on a bit of pb wall so it's damp but not wet. Watched this guy a couple of times, room looks a similar size and I like his style. Plus he's from darn Sarf! I also "wore" the trowels in with some 80 grit paper following another vid I found. Erm that's where the Onoff moniker stems from...all or nothing, feet first or sat on arse! I also have to be punched many times before I realise it hurts!

Breathes a sigh of relief! :) Yep, that's the plan. The BiL's knocking on 70 anyway and has back trouble plus I WANT to have a go.

All I have to go on is @nod's post that they will show through if you don't.

A bit of background; I filled the joints with multi based on @nod's comment of April 5th. Assumed "separate mix" was multi:

I often wonder what the post count would be of these threads if you subtracted the pi$$taking? I'm as guilty as the next man of that but it's interesting how some forums have some super anal mods who will jump on and remove off topic posts. The mig welding forum is pretty good for that. Just saying.

Erm...multi... So guessing from the "God loves a tryer!" comments elsewhere (without them stating why) that I've done something wrong by using multifinish over tape to fill the joint. Only guessing really as "Best slept on!" type comments are hardly helpful. Typical of most pure "trade" forums tbh, they advetise as DIY friendly then close ranks when one comes along. Generally this place isn't like that covering multi disciplines as it does. AFTER some reading I suspect it's that multi isn't considered strong enough for jointing purposes and that any stress on it might (will?) show up as a crack? If that's the case is there any way round it? Wider "repair" tape? Or magic paint? Thanks

8W cool white spots stop you looking up too...

Two man lift and the cover comes off! They then get to experience a fully sunken bath.