Onoff

Check out Ikea for cheap 28mm worktops, 1.86m long from £30.

I'm in Kent, if you can plaster, tile, don't mind crap cooking and fat birds then you can move in!

I was thinking you meant to use rounded edge worktop like mine. Getting the trim to look good where the edge goes from flat (where you've routed the corner) to blend with the curved edge is tricky.

Imo trying to round the edge like this on laminate worktop will look crap. The edging you stick on doesn't like being bent anyway.

You stick the pivot point in the other side of the worktop i.e not the good side.

You can do a 90deg corner as 2 45deg cuts. You will need an extra +600mm extra worktop on one leg to do this. I was lucky as two 3m worktops came with slight damage and got replaced. I got to keep the damaged bits so had extra to play with. With a plain finish you will see this more than one like mine. You should still biscuit and pocket such a join imo. A 45 join will be a longer join for water to potentially get under. You will likely notice where the two woktops meet in the internal corner more than with a jig. You can make a simple jig from scrap to do the pockets underneath. 99.9% of people use a jig for a 90. If you don't you're going against the grain. If you want to route a radius on that corner you just turn the worktop upside down and centre it on the "cardboard" side. You risk "breakout" one end of the cut. At the price for that jig Peter posted you could likely use it then sell on eBay and get your money back. You're not by any chance after my Procrastination Crown are you?

I was always told 6" (150mm) is the height an average raindrop bounces. It's why all our lead capped plinths for plant atop roofs are this high as a minimum.

I was changing vans at work one time, I also happened to be renovating our first house though we weren't living there. It seemed logical to dump the van contents in the empty front room so it was empty for the lease company. I'd been working in the front room so some of my own diy gear was there as well. As I left the house and slammed the door a precariously leant Workmate I'd left against the lounge wall fell onto a half used can of foam... A bit of a mess when I came back...

Lidl from this Sunday: https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=14019

Cheers. Unforunately the joints are done and now dry. The last ones are much better than the first once I got my hand in! Just the L shaped ceiling and one half wall to do. Got my cream of tartar so all ready for when over the man flu.

Welcome. Try sea water for getting rid of Triffids

Yes, I'm ill. Oveheard SWMBO to her mate earlier "He was getting on alright then he got man flu!". It's scientifically proven love, men get hit harder by these things!

Spoke to my AC mate on site today and he reckons £300 isn't far off the mark to test, repair if leaky & regas. Reckons your location might be an issue too.

Just showing you can make a join without a jig. For your right angle buy a jig. I'm the King of being told how to do something and going my own way btw so if I say buy a jig...buy a jig. 1) It's neater 2) Doing it at 45 and you'll need an extra 600mm+ of worktop anyway. That'll cost you more than a £16 jig. A couple more of mine done with a jig: If you're really cheap...worktop corner trim. Wickes, B&Q etc:

There's a fair chance your walls won't be at 90o so doing a 45o isn't quite as simple. Ideally you lay one board on the units against the wall, lay the other one atop it against it's wall - both overlength and split the difference. A bit of a pig to mark out first time. Can be done though. Mine / acceptable:

Loads of how to join vids like this:

Buy the £17 one if you go that route. Even I wouldn't try and make a standard one.

I've seen them just lay the coins and pour on the epoxy.

Scaffold boards biscuit jointed together. You can get new, rejects cheap. You could cut a decent curve and route the edge. Plenty of examples on Pinterest. https://www.simplythenest.com/simplythenestjournal/2018/2/3/how-to-make-kitchen-worktops-from-scaffold-boards

Penny bar top? Doesn't have to be coins, could be brass nuts or st/st washers even in a pattern.

Cast concrete counter tops? Plenty of vids on YouTube.

CE can stand for China Export you realise? Seriously....the mark is subtly different from the "Conformite Europeenne" mark. CEF aren't cheap but the quality is usually there. I paid twice the price for some galv 20mm couplers in a hurry but the steel is twice the thickness. Also service varies from branch to branch.

I think Peter means the CPC paper catalogue they send through every now and again after you buy stuff from them. They have specials in. Toolstation prices will be online...even the specials.

If from CPC then guessing one of these: http://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=v-tac 6w led panel downlight round 3 on that link are 110mm cut out so it'll likely be one of those Peter got. (The other's 75mm). Enlite stuff is great imo. That's what my normal size ones are at the start of the thread. Maintenance free terminals too.

I made a jig to make a breakfast bar. Luckily the pattern is very forgiving. First I grafted rounded edges onto the short end and right hand side of this standard 600mm worktop. The router is your friend to get precise edges to butt together: The jig is o/of 2 pieces of 10mm ali. It does the male and female. It's made specifically for use with the cheap router in the picture: I had to turn down some double ended spacers from ali and fit O rings like on the standard worktop jig: The fit is OK. The inserts were biscuit jointed and glued: I never quite worked out why there was a little "kick" one side. Everything on the CAD model was mirrored and the jig laser cut. One side was perfect: The other had this kick. As a say, lucky I have a forgiving pattern! Meant to revisit and figure why but never did! Tbh it's where we tend to congregate in the kitchen.