Onoff

You might be unlucky and have an "NiS", nickel sulphide inclusion issue. I know of at least one offfice block in London that ended up replacing every panel. It made the news after a couple fell out! You can also get cracking like that stemming from a small "shell" on one edge. And of course the frame being stressed by building movement is another possibility.

Btw, Gyproc SoundBloc boards you can get bigger than normal 8'x4" pb. They are incredibly heavy compared to normal ones but do the job I guess as they're denser.

I'd say batten the walls leaving service voids for cabling. Then pack with Rockwool batts and overboard with SoundBloc plasterboard. If you haven't got too many sockets and switches easy enough to crimp extensions on. The face of the new pb would be something like 65mm off the old wall. You could mess around stacking extension boxes or possibly move the sockets and light switches up/down to new positions and even take the opportunity to add extra ones. Observe safe zones of course! https://www.ukelectricalsupplies.com/search.htm?search=Metal+extension+box

What's the lifespan on the steel battens out of interest? Are they galvanised?

The plumber and tiler are one and the same where I am! He's a bit slow, some might use the term glacial even.

That a deliberate, totally unnecessary feature just because you can! Like a fall line yet no fall. LOVE IT! I think you should celebrate that with a night...on the tiles!

You could repost on the Talk Electrician forum and search out @binky on there. He's a solar guru. https://talk.electricianforum.co.uk

Didn't a Mike Harding sketch go on about when he went to see a house for sale and every surface except one was covered in cork?

If Ian replaced the studs in his hobnail boots with neodymium magents he could hang upside down from the steel in his winter garden!

Magnogrip do them along with work pouches and wrist bands like the CPC one I linked but much pricier. I've wondered about them before but I go through gloves at a ridiculous rate so have never bothered.

I used a couple of second hand acoustic foam panels at the back of my Geberit frame to hopefully damp down the flush noise. Off eBay. As good as new the front with just a bit of spray glue on the rear. DODO Mat is used for sound deadening in cars etc.

Rather than gut my kitchen I did discuss on here a while back, the merit of just digging a bfo rectangular hole in the large, clear floor area, insulating the bottom of the hole and sides and putting UFH in. It's probably a goer idea wise. BUT...the existing kitchen ffl is nom +100mm than the rest of the ground floor. So it's back to gutting the kitchen and digging down. Not like I haven't done that before!

I've a 12V Ryobi, charger and one duff clone battery sitting here if ever you wanted another.

If I could get this stuff foc, would it be any good in this application? Could it be used, thinned down as a mist coat too? Any "againsts"? https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p45146?

As least you know it can be done like they say! I'd hit the weak point with the punch NOT the hammer!

Something like this maybe? http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d01764/wrist-magnet/dp/TL14067

One looks more silvery than the other...

Reckon I'd need a legacy or big win to do a major refurb even!

Stainless maybe?

Indeed! Won't be doing mine until I've tapered my recesses with tile adhesive, painted the ceiling and done SWMBO's poxy clutch!

Screw loose!

I neat PVA'd my hole... My foam strip is so close to the edge of the glass I really can't see that a small bead of generic silicon would stick the hob down so much that a deft whip around the edge with a blade wouldn't free it.

The manufacturers likely won't say to silicon the edge. AFAIC it's a belt and braces to stop debris getting in there. If it's anything like the strip on my induction hob then there's no air flow route through there anyway. I went a bit ott with mine and routed the top strip to get some air flow through there figuring there's a nominal gap above the doors when they're on:

Aco drain, French drain of sparkly aggregate that SWMBO gets to choose?

@recoveringacademic, sorry but I forgot before now to check my Gmail account. I emailed Techscrew below on this. Apologies if a bit late! "Hello Clive It might not be Forgefix brand but if you speak to AT Engineering in Preston, they may be able to help with wing drillers fro timber to steel. They are on 01995 640058. Kind regards, Sam Crooks General Manager Woodall Fastening Systems (Phone No : +44 1384 263900 (Fax No: +44 1384 263908 (Mobile No: +44 7795 623468 yEMail Address:sam.crooks@techscrew.com Web URL: www.techscrew.com "