Onoff

Page 3 of the Reviews on Oct 27 2017, says it comes with bit. Or go into Screweys and ask to open the box - they will I'm sure. Or buy the 49mm long one Wiha one in my link above. Or buy the packet of 3 Erbauer brand ones @PeterW refererred to: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-impact-screwdriver-bits-tx30-x-25mm-pack-of-3/16646 Or one on its own, same make, Wiha as the 49mm long one...but shorter: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-29mm/6581g NB: Wiha is a top quality brand btw. Erbauer is at the cheaper end of things. You've less chance of losing the longer 49mm one of course. Or just believe me it comes with one in the box! If you're ordering for home delivery and you're miles from a Screwfix then you're a bit fooked if you only have the one bit and lose it! Could slow / halt the job rather!

Bit on its own: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-49mm/7540g Comes with the Torx bit req'd - read the reviews etc. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-50mm-100-pack/1066H?

It ain't normal measuring like this! T30 measures about 6mm at the base, 5mm at the very tip - sides taper / flare: The "T" size should be stamped on the side of the bit.

Yep, you get the little T30 but you'll need to put it in a standard magnetic holder shown next to it:

Ref a whetstone... The SiL's father was a pattern & die maker for Mollins in Deptford many years ago. I inherited some of the contents of his shed (and in fact the shed but that's another story). Aside from the taps and dies I have various stones: These: And inside: Then this lot: This one seems a bit coarse for dressing the tile edge: But this, used as a flat stone, seems pretty good on the old 6" tiles I first cut:

Someone point me at a reasonably priced whetstone please!

First tile cut! I ditched the fence tbh and did it freehand. Once again @Nickfromwales was right and you CAN cut freehand and follow the line / correct a bit. So, warts and all: A tad off: A ragged rhs edge., hoping a whetstone might ease that edge so I can use both bits of the tile. Looks worse on the photo. The pointy end didn't quite survive: Happy enough with this interface of the 4 tiles: This, where the pointy bits meet will just have to have a bit more grout. The fall line is the diagonal: You can see the fall, as intended. My CAD and angle bead casting frame thing paid off I think: Close up: And the long slope: Beer o'clock now! ...and an M&S curry!

You should confer with SWMBO, she's used to disappointment!

Whack 'em in near enough and let set. Two full nuts on the end tightened together and "tap" the nuts to the desired angle. Been doing it for years like that.

I figured then if the kids can leave their socks in the dining room floor I could lay out a bit of pb, some tiles and a length of sharp metal. The fact SWMBO's out has nothing to do with it...

More learning adventures in tiling and a blade recommendation! Searching some tiling forums and ATS Diamond Tools got good comments. I ordered therefore a 180mm / 25.4 blade. Just over the £20 with postage. Comparing to the Atlas Norton one from TS and there's nearly twice as much depth on the cutting edge, around 9mm vs 5mm. The Atlas Norton is 2mm thick and cuts 2.5mm wide. The ATS is 1.5mm and cuts 2mm wide. I also sorted the fence: What can I say, smoother cut, less vibration & minimal chipping on the one side on the up stroke. Also virtually no breakout at the end: The spacers don't quite fit in the cut slot but I'll live with that as the cut is so much better.

You get a little black T30 bit in each box: I use these bits in preference: In one of these: If you're going to get serious about your refurb then imo a decent cordless drill/driver and compatible impact gun will be invaluable. Many on here like Makita 18V LXT stuff. You can add cordless saws, grinders etc later on and they'll all share the same battery. You COULD tbh for this just use a 230V mains drill with the impact bit in.

Don't get down. Get fixed price quotes on things you can't do, say roof, electrics, plumbing, windows and doors. Tbh have a think, ask on here and you might be able to DIY some of those to some extent. Do the stuff where you can provide the labour yourself to save on that element. Loads of options for "on the cheap" that look good (Pinterest). Scaffold board kitchen maybe etc. If you don't need it "now" defer doing it.

Celotex normally comes in 2400x1200 sheets. You need to space your battens carefully so the edges of 1200mm plasterboard sit on the centre line of a batten where 2 boards meet. Also need to ensure support at the internal corners. ANY gaps in the wall, round pipes, wastes, in the brick / blockwork need filling.

More of an admission /cry for help...

Ah, you mean the shed? Might have done..... To be fair only 1 1/2 walls and the floor...

I did go overboard on the plasterboard screws perhaps Think I started doing them at 200mm centres, someone then said 150mm would have been better...I got carried away! If you're really bored: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd As @Nickfromwales says, screws are cheap!

Ta. I was thinking on the same lines to put a slight bevel on the cut edge. It'd maybe take out some of the small chips. The other thing I was thinking was to sacrifice 8 tiles so a cut "tile" on the fall line is in fact made from two good ones. If I go that route thinking I could use the score 'n snap manual Rubi cutter.

Back to the shade difference question... I've 16 tiles in this corner to lay something like this: Assuming all the boxes of tiles are the same shade reference / production run, then do I just use them as they come out of the box or do I pick "1 tile from each box" to account for up any shading differences? Or is this less of a problem nowadays? Cheers

Wago it so you or the future owner hasn't got to worry about the terminals loosening i.e a nod to maintenance free. Blanking plate on. Job done. If you're really worried type up an official looking label stating redundant socket position, on d'stairs ring, fed from etc. Even go so far as to put "for advice...contact number of...your sparks".

Assuming you'll need short lintel over that pipe.

I hadn't screwed it yet in that pic!

Getting a feel for this with the new Atlas/Norton diamond blade: Something I've noted is that the two halves of the fence are slightly off to one another. Needs the bolts loosening and adjusting against a straight edge. New blade doesn't sound any different to me really.

Is it quite high up? You often see them high so it was only a short reach to the immersion in the top of the tank.