Onoff

Is this stuff any good as a primer? Guessing not. 30L being thrown out though one 15L might be blown. Where would you use it? It's not that tacky stuff for carpet tiles is it?

Can I "stop 'n start" with tanking? I'm thinking, given the advice, to do the 1.3 x 1.3 floor area, pocket edges and filled joints with membrane. Then tape the wall to floor junction - that'll be +3m of the tape used up o/of 10m. Option to tape the vertical joints either side of the mitre...I think I should? (Leaves me 7m of tape for round the bath). I was thinking tape the joint between the flat (marine ply) deck the bath sits on, up the mrpb wall at the back and the ply on the long side: The reason I'm asking about stopping 'n starting is I'm probably getting another bottle of primer and full bucket of tanking membrane but not until next Friday. Thinking I could do the rest of the floor then... Maybe even do the tanking and get the wet room corner tiled now?

Same photo as above: I've a 7.5m2 tanking kit...not enough! Wet room corner floor is 1.3x1.3 so 1.7m2 The mitred wall bit is 1m2 Each wing with the pocket in is 2.47x1.3 so 3.2m2 x 2 = 6.4m2 Over 9m2 just there! On top I want to do around the bath. Might as well get another couple of 7.5m kits and do round the wc, sink etc.

SWMBO reckons it "needs to be white...or a very dark colour". I'm thinking darker won't show the dirt so much (though madam is a toothbrush / bleach fiend). Might also take the eye of of any of the brown ceramic tile base showing through on the cut edges, not that that's a real problem. I think once I've diamond filed the edges it'll be more of a white chamfer you'll see. Tiling will have to hold off for the mo whilst I await MORE tanking gear! I'll discuss on my tanking thread.

Just read this! Standing on the shoulders of giants me! I don't know, I ask. Monkey see / monkey do. I may go off piste on occasion and add my own little twist but I'd be lost without you lot!

Evening, welcome!

The differences between "drills":

Pretty much how I cut pb: I don't have a long on T square like that though!

It's just easier with the extension bit in before the T30 as else you're trying to get a piddly bit in the drill chuck where it can be pushed deeper into the chuck (as you're using it). With the extension bit the T30 can't be pushed in deeper into the extension. Easier also to centre the bit on the screw as it's not hidden by the chuck. Aka you can see what you're doing. Check you get a T30 bit before you leave S'fix! I cut pb with a Stanley knife. More a case of score deep (I do it against a straight edge, snap to fold it, then cut the paper on the back. Clean up the edge / shave a gnats off with a surform. If your battening is accurate you can use tapered edge pb and then tape and fill and NOT get a plasterer in if cost is an issue.

What is the grout & make please?

Charcoal grout didn't get an immediate "Nyet!". "Can you get samples?" However was the question!

Here's a question all in it's own... What colour grout on the floor? SWMBO had always thought white thinking grey will look dirty. She has just asked if anybody on the forum has any thoughts on the subject. Wonders never cease!

First cut EVER with the Rubi Practic cutter for the bit in the corner against the mitre: It didn't break perfectly clean as shown by the offcut below. I had to finish it off on the diamond saw: I'd aimed for a 3mm grout gap between the tile edge and Aqua Panel but didn't quite get that! It's pretty much butt tight against the AP. @Nickfromwales is that a problem? Thinking it needs grout in there / an expansion gap? EDIT: I think the tile didn't break cleanly as I had a tile spacer stuck on the Rubi bed!

I'm quite pleased with that. Going to play with the Rubi cutter now! Falls good: Was aiming for 13-26mm and it's about 18mm. Level not short enough here really but it falls:

How can you see soil, isn't the oversite over the soil? Older properties (like sections of mine) with a suspended timber floor would ensure cross ventilation via air bricks to keep things dry. Also important if there are any dwarf walls supporting say floor joists mid span, that this has a dpc somewhere to protect any timber sitting on it from getting damp.

Still got 'em in my Lidl. So £37.99 all in. 2.0Ah battery btw:

@Hecateh, looks like your older board has been modded to add two RCBOs - the B6 and B20 on the far right with the yellow test buttons. From the left you have the red isolator, that's just a switch. The red things are circuit breakers, a modern "fuse" if you like that should trip in the event of an over current or short circuit. The benefit being you can reset once the fault is fixed whereas a fuse would blow or need rewiring. You do not have any RCDs per se in that board. What you have is the two RCBOs, Residual Current Breakers with Overload. These combine the attributes of a circuit breaker with that of an RCD. They're good in that they protect just that circuit. If there's a fault then only that circuit is affected. In a perfect world every circuit would be on it's own RCBO. No excuse not to on a new build tbh.

There'll be a little test button on the RCD that'll say "Test Monthly" etc. You press it and it should trip every circuit upstream of the RCD. Just because it trips by pressing the button doesn't mean it's safe but it's a reasonable indicator. As the trip is an electro mechanical assembly (coil imbalance picked up by a search coil triggers a solenoid type deal) pressing the button ensures the mechanism is less likely to gum up over time from being static. Of course you will have to go round resetting all your clocks etc! Different from an RCD tester which is a special bit of kit that basically tests how fast the RCD works. Nice explanation and little diagram picked at random: https://www.electricalengineeringtoolbox.com/2016/01/how-residual-current-device-rcd-works.html?m=1

Is this much the same? https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p56163? An extra quid but if I'm passing etc...

Ta. As I say at each "two cut edge butt" one tile is pretty good and the other less so - tb invisible from standing up looking down. That's me trying to save tiles. I have the option, for the sake of 8 tiles to replace the dodgy edge halves with score 'n snapped ones. Would grey "garage" type floor paint applied with an artist's fine brush work? Any particular brand of car spray? Doesn't it come off when you wash the tiles / over time? Lastly, a whetstone, where from? Cheers

Too much reliance on RCD protection imo especially as bonding requirements aren't imo what they used to be.

Or plastering? The majority will say get an expert in!

No! That's a ladies drill for ladies! It has 25Nm of torque which is FA for what he's doing. Completely different tool to the impact driver in my link which quotes 180Nm. Thats proper wrist breaking torque. Your Aldi one...well I'd attach to my old chap just for fun!

Nice! Seen that before! Porcelain though? More forgiving / tougher than these ceramic ones.

If you're not planning on building a "fleet" of decent 18V tools (Makita etc) then Lidl were doing a 20V Parkside impact driver with 2 batteries for a 1/4 of the price of big name kit. The specs look good, reviews too and it has a 3-year g'tee. Keep the receipt, do this job. If it works great if not get your money back. It won't be compatible of course of you buy another make of say cordless drill later on. Old ad but they still have them now and then: https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/lidl-29th-june-parkside-18v-li-ion-cordless-impact-driver-3999-2231475