Onoff

Yep, you get the little T30 but you'll need to put it in a standard magnetic holder shown next to it:

Ref a whetstone... The SiL's father was a pattern & die maker for Mollins in Deptford many years ago. I inherited some of the contents of his shed (and in fact the shed but that's another story). Aside from the taps and dies I have various stones: These: And inside: Then this lot: This one seems a bit coarse for dressing the tile edge: But this, used as a flat stone, seems pretty good on the old 6" tiles I first cut:

Someone point me at a reasonably priced whetstone please!

First tile cut! I ditched the fence tbh and did it freehand. Once again @Nickfromwales was right and you CAN cut freehand and follow the line / correct a bit. So, warts and all: A tad off: A ragged rhs edge., hoping a whetstone might ease that edge so I can use both bits of the tile. Looks worse on the photo. The pointy end didn't quite survive: Happy enough with this interface of the 4 tiles: This, where the pointy bits meet will just have to have a bit more grout. The fall line is the diagonal: You can see the fall, as intended. My CAD and angle bead casting frame thing paid off I think: Close up: And the long slope: Beer o'clock now! ...and an M&S curry!

You should confer with SWMBO, she's used to disappointment!

Whack 'em in near enough and let set. Two full nuts on the end tightened together and "tap" the nuts to the desired angle. Been doing it for years like that.

I figured then if the kids can leave their socks in the dining room floor I could lay out a bit of pb, some tiles and a length of sharp metal. The fact SWMBO's out has nothing to do with it...

More learning adventures in tiling and a blade recommendation! Searching some tiling forums and ATS Diamond Tools got good comments. I ordered therefore a 180mm / 25.4 blade. Just over the £20 with postage. Comparing to the Atlas Norton one from TS and there's nearly twice as much depth on the cutting edge, around 9mm vs 5mm. The Atlas Norton is 2mm thick and cuts 2.5mm wide. The ATS is 1.5mm and cuts 2mm wide. I also sorted the fence: What can I say, smoother cut, less vibration & minimal chipping on the one side on the up stroke. Also virtually no breakout at the end: The spacers don't quite fit in the cut slot but I'll live with that as the cut is so much better.

You get a little black T30 bit in each box: I use these bits in preference: In one of these: If you're going to get serious about your refurb then imo a decent cordless drill/driver and compatible impact gun will be invaluable. Many on here like Makita 18V LXT stuff. You can add cordless saws, grinders etc later on and they'll all share the same battery. You COULD tbh for this just use a 230V mains drill with the impact bit in.

Don't get down. Get fixed price quotes on things you can't do, say roof, electrics, plumbing, windows and doors. Tbh have a think, ask on here and you might be able to DIY some of those to some extent. Do the stuff where you can provide the labour yourself to save on that element. Loads of options for "on the cheap" that look good (Pinterest). Scaffold board kitchen maybe etc. If you don't need it "now" defer doing it.

Celotex normally comes in 2400x1200 sheets. You need to space your battens carefully so the edges of 1200mm plasterboard sit on the centre line of a batten where 2 boards meet. Also need to ensure support at the internal corners. ANY gaps in the wall, round pipes, wastes, in the brick / blockwork need filling.

More of an admission /cry for help...

Ah, you mean the shed? Might have done..... To be fair only 1 1/2 walls and the floor...

I did go overboard on the plasterboard screws perhaps Think I started doing them at 200mm centres, someone then said 150mm would have been better...I got carried away! If you're really bored: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd As @Nickfromwales says, screws are cheap!

Ta. I was thinking on the same lines to put a slight bevel on the cut edge. It'd maybe take out some of the small chips. The other thing I was thinking was to sacrifice 8 tiles so a cut "tile" on the fall line is in fact made from two good ones. If I go that route thinking I could use the score 'n snap manual Rubi cutter.

Back to the shade difference question... I've 16 tiles in this corner to lay something like this: Assuming all the boxes of tiles are the same shade reference / production run, then do I just use them as they come out of the box or do I pick "1 tile from each box" to account for up any shading differences? Or is this less of a problem nowadays? Cheers

Wago it so you or the future owner hasn't got to worry about the terminals loosening i.e a nod to maintenance free. Blanking plate on. Job done. If you're really worried type up an official looking label stating redundant socket position, on d'stairs ring, fed from etc. Even go so far as to put "for advice...contact number of...your sparks".

Assuming you'll need short lintel over that pipe.

I hadn't screwed it yet in that pic!

Getting a feel for this with the new Atlas/Norton diamond blade: Something I've noted is that the two halves of the fence are slightly off to one another. Needs the bolts loosening and adjusting against a straight edge. New blade doesn't sound any different to me really.

Is it quite high up? You often see them high so it was only a short reach to the immersion in the top of the tank.

Add some wooden slats in = airing cupboard!

The OSG suggests an airing cupboard in bathroom is outside the Zones just as a bathroom door makes the bathroom separate from the rest of the house. It suggests however if the airing cupboard opens into Zone 1 of 2 then any circuits supplying kit in the cupboard should have RCD protection. But this isn't an airing cupboard! Argue it's a very small room off the bathroom?

I should add that I only used 27mm insulated pb as anything more (plus tiles) would have encroached too much on the window frame. I also have no cavity closers to speak of. The cavities up the side of the window appear to have had a piece of expanding foam folded into a "V", wedged into the cavity and rendered over.

So the window reveal: 60mm cavity block wall that the wind howled up! 27mm insulated pb (Gyproc from Travis Perkins) cut to fit. Sides support the top: Foamed: Foam trimmed, mortar brought up level. Spray glue on the reveal and strips of DPM: DPM on all 4 faces: Go mad with Sikaflex EBT around the edges, low expansion foam in the middle: Bottom bit weighted down. Sikaflex bead against widow frame and pb pushes onto it: Top and sides wedged temporarily: Set: Small child bribed into marking the pb from the inside: Sorted: Edit: Note in some areas the centres are more than 400mm. Where the pir is a bit loose between studs I used expanding foam to fill any gaps.