Onoff

How far back is the front face of the wood, from the face of the wall above where the skirting was?

None at all on the fully tiled walls. It's a wet room in regular use. Only issue is some black mould (?) On the painted ceiling. That was done in Dulux Trade Diamond Matt. I think that's because there is no heating in the bathroom still. Towel rail and UFH aren't connected yet.

Oh and don't paint plastered walls before tiling.

PVA in a bathroom is shite. Any hint of moisture and it'll re-wet making anything else on top, like tiles lift and come off. How far is the face of the wood from the face of the wall? Depending on depth, I'd be tempted to tack on some expanded metal mesh to the timber. Treat the wood with a killer/preserver too. Then render level and tank the lot. What's the plan in terms of finish for the walls and floor here?

You use extra long, flat wood bits with an extension bar if necessary.

Low expansion foam even better.

Just like heat pumps.

Unlikely:

+1.

What did you do to her?

So yours is two Induction loops?

Yes. No.

I've been doing it for 40 years. Even down to dipping thread ends in peelable "wax" to save cleaning concrete splashes out if the threads. A nut might help knock the burr off but you'll still end up with a sharp end without dressing. Most of my cut/dressed ends come up square and you wouldn't know them from a shop bought bolt.

I cut to length with a slitting disc then dress with a flap disc to slightly taper the end, remove any burr and clean the end up. Never put the nuts on first.

If you look at commercial stairs, the stringers are routed and the treads fit into them.

Doubt it, with loads of modern wood glue. You can buy proper stair jigs for doing exactly what I did. I also had 3 lengths of studding under the top, middle and bottom treads.

My stairs method was to make a jig and have the treads sat in a routed out housing. This is just a couple of tread section left over from the original tree house stairs. Glued and screwed, it was super strong:

Caw!

The Bionic visor options, all fit the same mask shell: Notes • PUL9601725N - Polycarbonate Clear Visor - Uncoated • PUL9601726P - Acetate Clear Visor - Anti-Mist/Scratch Resistant • PUL9601727Q - Polycarbonate Clear Visor - Anti-Fog/Scratch Resistant • PUL9601729S - Bionic shade 5 visor

I'd render the top of the wall with a water proof render, have a slight fall outward. I'd then stick the slate to that. A line of black CT1 between each slate. Also a ring of CT1 around your stud before you push the packing washer on.

I've two of these: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/personal-protection-and-clothing/full-face-protection-kits/1011623-bionic-face-shield-with-uncoated-visor/p/ZT1177444X?

In all seriousness you can get non misting visors for the Bionic mask. I invariably take my glasses off anyway when I'm cutting/grinding welding as I tend to work really close up. Judging by my welding I should perhaps put them back on...

More a case of matter stuck in mind... Most recent one I had was with a piece of thin stainless held in mole grips in my left hand. I was dressing it with a 1mm slitting disc holding the grinder in my right. Somehow the blade ripped the stainless out from the grips straight into my face shield. With plain goggles in it would have been my neck. Sobering!

The free version of nanoCAD is worth a look. If you're used to old style, 2D AutoCAD it's a doddle to get along with: https://nanocad.com/products/nanocad-free/