Onoff

Ta. Trying to find your post where you said about using CT1 between the back of the pocket shelf and mosaics... WHEN does the CT1 go in? If I load the pocket with adhesive and squash the bottom shelf down into it at the slight angle, it'll squidge out the ends for sure as there's big gaps. It probably won't so much out of the front as it's against the trim. But the back...where it touches the mosaic...if I've got wet adhesive in there, coming through that gap I won't be getting CT1 in there. Or is it done afterwards? Cheers

So why is it off centre? Just the way it ended up or did you plan it different in your head?

Seems like a lot of work for not a lot to show today! Basically just trimmed the pockets and laid 5 mosaics in the back. Cant do the top ones yet until the Sticks Like Sh!t holding the 6m Aqua Panel goes off. And now the warts: Pocket next to the mixer valve, this tile is a bit proud. Will grout get in there? I've cut a tile to sit at the slight angle at the base of this pocket. Strip of plastic just to aid removal! The tile was nom 75mm on the left and 80mm on the right. I had to shorten it lengthwise to get it in: Should it sit slightly proud of this trim where I've hooked my nail under? So now what? How to fix it? Tile adhesive obviously but I need I believe to CT1 where the back of the tile meets the mosaics, this is a scored and diamond filed edge. Ditto the front edge - that's a factory edge. Or do I not use tile adhesive at all, just CT1 around all 4 edges? But then the tile is short lengthwise? @Nickfromwales...HELP!

I reckon with a bit of imagination you could cut a bit of board the exact size of the underside of the reveal, lay the tiles on it face down, suitably spaced and held in place around the edge then lift and prop the whole thing up in one hit. Please post pics if you try it!

@Tennentslager, looks good from where I'm sitting does yours. So much better than mine! Replaced the hacked out 12.5mm Aqua Panel with 6mm. Just whacked it up with some Sticks Like Sh!t: My pockets look alright from a distance. Last one came out best and that's far from perfect. Close up, one of the better joints:

No problem tiling the underside of the reveal. You just prop it all up whilst it's drying with battens etc. If you're confident of finishing the edges like that, without trim then go for it. Just trimming my pockets now as it happens...

Can't remember. Will find out.

Ta. A bit of a trek for me. It'd cost me the saving I'd make in petrol! Best deals I had was when Focus / Do It All at Sevenoaks became Wickes. It was 50% off then a week later another 50% off that. Got a Champion 18V cordless circular saw with two batteries for £20 something. A 230V "Dremel" again by Champion for about £7 from memory. Both still going strong. The nephew has a nose for a bargain with Homebase. When the Australians bought them and changed the cheapo power tool brand to I think Ozito, he picked up a 9" grinder for I think £13.

A colleague at work has commissioned a 5 bed detached new build in Cambridgeshire. Architect designed. I put him onto Sunamp and he's going for that along with an ASHP. I'm a little worried though as when I spoke a while back with him about the importance of air tightness and insulation levels he was a bit blase saying the architect was dealing with all that. Just a bit worried it'll get "traditionally" built by "traditional" builders. No offence but thinking back to when @Hecateh had issues with the insulation around her windows, almost the builders not caring. Someone else on here I think had them skimp on airtight tape. Is there then a checklist of points to watch out for to ensure it's as airtight etc as it can be. I can find out the construction if it helps. I imagine there's minimum U values it'll be designed for but are there better values he SHOULD be aiming for? Cheers

Mate has a twin wall polycarbonate roof on his conservatory / lean to. Old terraced place he's just moved into. Double glazed windows and half walls on the lean to. In the Summer he reckons it can get to 40deg in there. He's voiced a plan to me to "insulate" the roof at the same time blocking out the light. He's got 60mm from the underside of the roof beams to underside of the polycarbonate. He's proposing fitting 50mm pir between the roof beams. Foil space blanket up on the ceiling followed by upvc cladding to keep the weight down. I mentioned that looking through the polycarb from the outside you'll see the silver pir. He's mulling over then painting the outside of the polycarb. Will this work, is it practical? I'm wondering whether there'll be any condensation issues between the top of the pir and underside of the polycarb.

That was directed at Jeremy, you'll do 8 in a week!

Did you ask about whether they still do the "Just 8" scheme? Only downside is if you do more than 8 notifiables you can't just pay a bit extra. They don't as I think I've mentioned before advertise it.

Oh my eyes! At least I put a mask on about 3/4 of the way through. But both eyes, when I close them it's not nice. One hacked out: The 6mm Aqua Panel I've just bought should fit in there nicely: And then the trim should fit on just right. The little lip on the trim...does it sit over the tile thus bringing the tile trim slightly forward or on the trim so the trim and tile are flush? Cheers

Is that the posh name for amyl nitrate then?

PMSL, struggling to pick a winner out of those two comments! Made my evening

Bad enough cutting Aqua Panel in the garden with a cheap circular saw. Removing the cocked up bits in situ with a multi tool...not sure there's enough beer to wash the the taste away!

You lucky things! Our upstairs plasterboarding of the dormer, ceilings snd walls appears to have been done in 3/8" aka 9mm pb.

Visitors? The very thought sets my pulse racing and panic sets in. Probably down to a combination of embarrassment and social awkwardness.

Bollocks! No bargains at Sevenoaks!

We were made to chant like Japanese factory workers: "Switch off Lock off Signs Test your tester on a proving unit or known source of supply Test for dead Retest your tester on a proving unit or known source of supply" And "CRIPEs Ranulph Fiennes!" was something a lecturer coined for the basic sequence of tests: Continuity Ring final tests Insulation Resistance Polarity Earth Loop Impedance RCD testing Functional testing

There's a story goes around about the outgoing head of the IET I think it was. Every year he'd give a blinding speech full of anecdotes and laughs and every year it was different. Before he began he'd unfold what appeared to be the same piece of crumpled paper year after year then launch into it. Upon his retirement somebody asked how he gave such cracking speeches every year and what was on the bit of paper to which he replied "All you need to remember is red wire live, black wire neutral!"

Just remember red wire live, black neutral.

Open the tap slower.

A shot in the dark, quite literally as the lights were off! Another "didn't think of that" The window sill is pretty wide, the window being fitted to the outer leaf of the cavity wall. With hindsight I should have maybe moved the window inboard a tad. Tbh I'm now seriously considering doing so. Of course it'd take some work with the multi tool as I foamed all the original gaps and Sikafkex EBT'd the insulated pb all round the reveal to the upvc frame. Not so clear from the photo is that having the grey sill tiles landscape as shown, will mean I have 3 thin rips up the back. Won't match the side reveal tiles that'll be full depth. Gut feel is it will just look wrong. One option is I lay the mosaics on the sill in portrait, that'll span the depth in one. Thinking maybe finish the rest and get in the good books then come back to the sill section on the "It'd look so much better (if we moved the window)..." front. If I did live with the rips on the sill at least they would tie in with the ones needed on the wall in front!

Could you get a reputable company in to do the gate in the same finish as the drive? Too soon?