Onoff

Nick said to stick trims on first with mitre bond.

Onoff has just had two Neurofen and no beer. Day consisted of: Emptied/loaded the dishwasher. Cleared some leaves. Did the n/s ball joint on the Golf / cut one piece of ply to support the tiles over the window. Wet cut one tile for the bottom rhs of the window. Broke that bit of trim off. Then respite home, hospital, Co- op & home. Living the dream! Only the thought of Jodie Whittaker shortly is keeping me going!

I ran a thick bead of mitre bond up/along the tile edge then sprayed activator on the back of the trim before pressing it on. Stuck myself to it half a dozen times!

Wondering if I could fit some form of bendy nozzle and squirt CT1 in from the rear. Thinking I've done these trims all wrong. I should have made them up as a 4 sided frame, mitre bonded at the joins. Then set the whole lot in CT1. Live and learn!

I quite like the Bosch multi construction bits. We deliberately did "the test" at work on a lump of timber, paving slab then steel plate. Coped admirably tbh though not so sure once they lose their edge. Dead handy to have one set in the leccy bag, another in the plumbing tote etc.

Worrying as above over whether this trim should have CT1 behind it, I was having a flex and a fiddle.....and pulled this strip off! And there was a LOT of mitre bond on it. So much I even took some of the glaze off the tile: A new bit of trim should hide the edge...just! But back to how to water proof this trim?

Great price on the Drill Doctor one. Buy it!

+1. Spend a bit more money and get the version of these goes in the impact driver.

Ta. @Nickfromwales's comment from 12th Feb & @PeterW's of 13th are on the lines of what I was looking for but it's not the thread I was after. Nick made a specific comment about not having a grout joint between the shelf section and rear mosaics in the pocket. Rather you should do this in CT1. Seem to recall it was a case of having a minimal gap and baby wipe the excess off. BIG worry now though after reading the thread you linked is I'm thinking I should have stuck the trims on with CT1 and Multisolved the excess off rather than using mitre bond like I have!

Ta. Trying to find your post where you said about using CT1 between the back of the pocket shelf and mosaics... WHEN does the CT1 go in? If I load the pocket with adhesive and squash the bottom shelf down into it at the slight angle, it'll squidge out the ends for sure as there's big gaps. It probably won't so much out of the front as it's against the trim. But the back...where it touches the mosaic...if I've got wet adhesive in there, coming through that gap I won't be getting CT1 in there. Or is it done afterwards? Cheers

So why is it off centre? Just the way it ended up or did you plan it different in your head?

Seems like a lot of work for not a lot to show today! Basically just trimmed the pockets and laid 5 mosaics in the back. Cant do the top ones yet until the Sticks Like Sh!t holding the 6m Aqua Panel goes off. And now the warts: Pocket next to the mixer valve, this tile is a bit proud. Will grout get in there? I've cut a tile to sit at the slight angle at the base of this pocket. Strip of plastic just to aid removal! The tile was nom 75mm on the left and 80mm on the right. I had to shorten it lengthwise to get it in: Should it sit slightly proud of this trim where I've hooked my nail under? So now what? How to fix it? Tile adhesive obviously but I need I believe to CT1 where the back of the tile meets the mosaics, this is a scored and diamond filed edge. Ditto the front edge - that's a factory edge. Or do I not use tile adhesive at all, just CT1 around all 4 edges? But then the tile is short lengthwise? @Nickfromwales...HELP!

I reckon with a bit of imagination you could cut a bit of board the exact size of the underside of the reveal, lay the tiles on it face down, suitably spaced and held in place around the edge then lift and prop the whole thing up in one hit. Please post pics if you try it!

@Tennentslager, looks good from where I'm sitting does yours. So much better than mine! Replaced the hacked out 12.5mm Aqua Panel with 6mm. Just whacked it up with some Sticks Like Sh!t: My pockets look alright from a distance. Last one came out best and that's far from perfect. Close up, one of the better joints:

No problem tiling the underside of the reveal. You just prop it all up whilst it's drying with battens etc. If you're confident of finishing the edges like that, without trim then go for it. Just trimming my pockets now as it happens...

Can't remember. Will find out.

Ta. A bit of a trek for me. It'd cost me the saving I'd make in petrol! Best deals I had was when Focus / Do It All at Sevenoaks became Wickes. It was 50% off then a week later another 50% off that. Got a Champion 18V cordless circular saw with two batteries for £20 something. A 230V "Dremel" again by Champion for about £7 from memory. Both still going strong. The nephew has a nose for a bargain with Homebase. When the Australians bought them and changed the cheapo power tool brand to I think Ozito, he picked up a 9" grinder for I think £13.

A colleague at work has commissioned a 5 bed detached new build in Cambridgeshire. Architect designed. I put him onto Sunamp and he's going for that along with an ASHP. I'm a little worried though as when I spoke a while back with him about the importance of air tightness and insulation levels he was a bit blase saying the architect was dealing with all that. Just a bit worried it'll get "traditionally" built by "traditional" builders. No offence but thinking back to when @Hecateh had issues with the insulation around her windows, almost the builders not caring. Someone else on here I think had them skimp on airtight tape. Is there then a checklist of points to watch out for to ensure it's as airtight etc as it can be. I can find out the construction if it helps. I imagine there's minimum U values it'll be designed for but are there better values he SHOULD be aiming for? Cheers

Mate has a twin wall polycarbonate roof on his conservatory / lean to. Old terraced place he's just moved into. Double glazed windows and half walls on the lean to. In the Summer he reckons it can get to 40deg in there. He's voiced a plan to me to "insulate" the roof at the same time blocking out the light. He's got 60mm from the underside of the roof beams to underside of the polycarbonate. He's proposing fitting 50mm pir between the roof beams. Foil space blanket up on the ceiling followed by upvc cladding to keep the weight down. I mentioned that looking through the polycarb from the outside you'll see the silver pir. He's mulling over then painting the outside of the polycarb. Will this work, is it practical? I'm wondering whether there'll be any condensation issues between the top of the pir and underside of the polycarb.

That was directed at Jeremy, you'll do 8 in a week!

Did you ask about whether they still do the "Just 8" scheme? Only downside is if you do more than 8 notifiables you can't just pay a bit extra. They don't as I think I've mentioned before advertise it.

Oh my eyes! At least I put a mask on about 3/4 of the way through. But both eyes, when I close them it's not nice. One hacked out: The 6mm Aqua Panel I've just bought should fit in there nicely: And then the trim should fit on just right. The little lip on the trim...does it sit over the tile thus bringing the tile trim slightly forward or on the trim so the trim and tile are flush? Cheers

Is that the posh name for amyl nitrate then?

PMSL, struggling to pick a winner out of those two comments! Made my evening

Bad enough cutting Aqua Panel in the garden with a cheap circular saw. Removing the cocked up bits in situ with a multi tool...not sure there's enough beer to wash the the taste away!