Onoff

Ta. I'll let the rellie who's just done their floor know. They were on about maybe extending a bit further. The reason I asked for alternatives to Wickes was for a mate who missed the boat on the Wickes stuff.

I'd first sort the reveal corners by fitting pvc plaster beading to the sides & top then filling & feathering. Like my sketch from about 10 thread pages ago. Also sketched I think in 3D somewhere in this thread.... You affix the beading with the aid of a spirit level so you could probably lose a lot of that bow.

The Wickes stuff is excellent imo...but sold out eveywhere. Just the odd pack here and there in store.

Anyone recommend a source for 18mm solid oak flooring similar to this price: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Medina-Oak-Solid-Wood-Flooring/p/138980 Cheers

Thanks all. SWMBO is insisting on printing out the mosaics on paper (scan a tile?) and "papering" the reveals to see what it looks like! Overpowering and awkward I think! I think the fact that we'll end up seeing 1/2 squares, will mean the plain gets the vote.

Whilst we're on the subject....plain all round in the window reveal? F***! With hindsight the dwarf wall alongside the bath should have been made the same height as the window sill! Only just seeing now this would have looked better.

To tile the strip of green pb, far right, up alongside the window: Would a near full tile from window to corner as in "B" be acceptable or does this need to be done in two with the join where the verical laser is? Cheers

The Rhodius 1mm ones from Toolstation are good. Even better Abracs Proflex. You won't go back. I've been chopping up steel for 35 years.

My bad! Yes, top, bottom and sides in plain. I'll go and edit that!

SWMBO is undecided as to whether the returns in the pockets are going to be done in the mosaics or the plain tiles. The pockets are different depths, 95mm on the right: & 130mm deep on the left Personally I favour having just the back in the mosaic and the top, bottom & sides in the plain? Anyone care to weigh in as to why my idea is best other than it'll be an odd number of squares? Cheers

Ta. Tbh I should have waited until you were back from the Maldives before I started tiling! Was wondering about white, 40mm D line.....should fit straight in the gap: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DL2D4020

Yep. I foil taped the joints on both layers.

Get me a couple at that price please!

Arrow head tile drill set at Lidl for £2.99: https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-glass-drill-bit-set/p/078806239141311 (Also doing a Rothenberger thermal imaging camera for £899. It's Aldi ffs! )

I did a sand blind first dead level. Found it very Zen! Then the 25mm eps: Then the dpc: Then the pir: Think I put thick down first! Putting the 50 down first followed by the 100 would have been better I think.

I've 175mm of "insulation" under my bathroom floor. 25mm eps then 150mm of pir above that.

Normal? Can you not see the bfo body dryer?

Small coving?

Smaller mix, smaller bucket! (Taylor, Gilbreth?) Don't look too close: Like I said, don't look too close. Had to put a couple of pb screws in just to hold a tile in position: Above the window coming down from the ceiling it'll go slip, full tile, slip. SWMBO wants a blind there so that'll take the eye off the lower slip.

Every night's a school night! Well it is for me, learning as I tile. I think @Nickfromwales referred to the importance of avoiding "rips" I think he called them, thin strips of tiles that look awkward and unplanned. Well I managed it! I've ended up with a nom 40mm strip up by the ceiling. I was going to cut the mosaics down in strips to say the 30mm width of the squares? It'd mean a 5mm grout line either side. Or cut it down to 35mm keeping the pseudo grout line. Then put that against the ceiling and grout as normal between the main tiles and mosaics. Thoughts? Cheers.

Judge (G)Rinder?

Oh yeah! Complete with Princess Leia...

My bathroom is just a dummy run. Come the Lotto win it's all being bulldozed!

Once you get the nice new light up you'll forget all about it!

I think you should make a 1/10 scale model of your kitchen like I did: Then, change your mind on the positioning of some key elements not fully taking into account how it affects other areas and have to solve issues of your own making on the fly... ...like I did!