Onoff

I wanted Götwood...

Probably no worse the the Aldi/Lidl offerings. 42Nm torque is useful enough: https://www.latestdeals.co.uk/deals/cordless-electric-drill-amazon

I find that having a sign with the house name "Thederelictunkemptonebetweenthetwoposhones", is a great help to couriers though it won't always fit in he the online address box.

Artex? Or a similar stipple effect, maybe roller applied. It'd be right at home with a 70's classic I the garage!

All up and running with the new stat. Didn't take a pic of how it fitted inside beforehand but something like this I think:

3 sided mdf "box" against the wall, as high as the telly, painted to match walls. Getting a duck vibe.....

Lad at works just doing this for his 65" + sound bar. Centred the fireplace with a new stud wall.

Plugs: Fitting F plugs: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/fplugs.htm Coax plugs: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/tvplugs.htm D trunking sometimes a neat solution: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Dline_Plasma_Trunking/index.html Yes you can shorten the "aerial" leads.

He was jet washing it...

Ours plough the lawn looking for yellow jacket grubs! Make a right mess:

Hypothetically what sort of area & depth would a lake need to be, to get reasonable performance numbers from a GSHP? Half thinking of people with sloping sites. Would it be worth berming the lower end and creating a big "pond"? I know some on here have lakes already and are planning a GSHP, others have dug ponds. Presumably the pipes have to be insulated from the point of entry into said body of water and some distance in to it too? Fascinating.

I fitted sound bloc on my own. Bloody heavy, I laid the boards horizontal. @recoveringacademic, a board lifter is good to have if you haven't already got one: https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-panel-board-carrier-950130

I said to SWMBO earlier: "I just went to the loo and washed my hands in the new sink!" I had to clarify.

I really like that. ...maybe I'll make one...

I only really stuck it up so it can come down again to fit a thermal blind later. Yes, still dolphins.

Christ knows whether this'll work but I've stuck the cheapo blind brackets on! Didn't want to open a new tube of CT1 so used some Sticks Like Sh!t. Whether it'll work...

The new stat, from the German supplier should be arriving tomorrow. When I've replaced stat before (twice in 30 years?) I've just used plain ordinary silicone to seal where the capilliary comes through the back of the fridge. Would CT1 or intumescent be better?

Loft stilts available in different heights.

Its where it tucks into the wall is critical. Ideally a slot at a slight angle. Has the lead been oiled? Really brings it up.

I might: - Mark where the bracket is going. - With a 25mmm Starrett drill the pb and mark the block behind with the pilot of the Starrett. - Drill the wall for resin studs. - Puff out the holes. - Inject resin, push in studs. - Put a nut on each stud then a penny washer level with the face of the pb. - Bolt bracket on Only issue I can see is whether the M10 nuts & protruding studs holding the bracket on would affect the bit of the bracket attached to the tv. Also would want to get the studs all the same length.

Is that Maggie from The Simpsons?

Aerated, hollow, medium density etc?

What are the blocks?

Well that didn't last long! Controller is playing silly buggers again. This despite the new cap. Might try the battery if I can find what voltage it is.

Skipping through your comments...30 tubes on a presumably clear winters day will feed a 300L then with a useful amount of heat? What about overcast days? I've heard you still get heat input with ST.