Onoff

Some info here expanding on what @ProDave mentioned: https://www.alextradeframes.com/technical/toe-heel

Toeing and heeling they call it.

If you plan on tiling later then my understanding is that "ordinary" pva can become re "wetted" if you get leaks through the grout and cause the tiles to lift. (You can get waterproof pva). I used thinned down SBR as a dust sealer on the concrete. Firstly on the basis its waterproof, second it could be used as an alternative to the tanking primer. Worked really well as it was a couple of YEARS before I got round to tiling.

I'd hazard that's a failure of the door construction / glue used. However...if the inside has dried out so quick that its shrunk in all planes, guessing you could see this. Others will hopefully comment shortly. Do you know of anybody else who's had doors etc made by these people and have had issues? I'm v.suprised this was cheaper than upvc. Was no upvc your choice or a condition?

Timber now tends to be from species selected for their fast growth properties. What timber was used do you know, a kiln dried redwood maybe?

See the bigger gap at the top on the left. I'm assuming the bottom of the door, lock side is catching? I'd also say the door joints at the bottom are coming apart slightly. Big, heavy double glazed panel?

Video works alright. Can't see much as to why the leaks. The frame joint in the top left appears to have been nicely done for example suggesting an attention to detail elsewhere. Maybe some views of seals, rubbers at the openings. I am right these are all custom made but in softwood? Wouldn't timber effect upvc have been cheaper?

I'd be integrating it I think, fixed at floor and ceiling. As an aside would you want to not have UFH pipes running under it if they're planned? Must sleep now...MDF dreams I'm sure!

Don't have ornaments. "We" have loads. I keep referring to them as "hard core" much to SWMBO'S displeasure. Was thinking this sort of thing for sliding doors: https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/hush-sliding-door-gear-600x1200mm-maximum-door-size-407687? Can you CAD something up in 3D? Thinking MDF with pinned on mouldings if going for painted. Pinterest is probably your friend for ideas.

And your ornaments might vibrate! ?

Sliding doors? I've a How To Make Loudspeakers book here from years back. You could even maybe design proper, bassy, speaker enclosures within the construction.

Take the picture below, a door I assume: By painting the outside you have in effect sealed the surface so as to limit moisture in/out. The unfinished side, inside will now dry out quicker and contract. Some truth in what your builder is saying I think unfortunately.

This one's sure to divide opinion...

Are they steel parts? If so then I've had good results of late with citric acid.

Yes, quite feasible. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/propane-cylinder-as-air-receiver.31471/

I found that rebar bit I mentioned a while back in this thread. 20mm, SDS, German Hawera brand:

Really not an issue.

@pocster what size Sigma frame did you go for? Flush plates for the 12cm can be had new for £35: https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/geberit-sigma01-dual-flush-plate-gloss-chrome?

I've got an Aldi compressor and their sand blast attachment. I'm always using the compressor, from tyres to nail gun to simply blowing brick dust off the Rage 3 saw. Sand blaster is slow, runs out quick and wants to be more "agressive" ideally.

My frame is Geberit, pan is a Bernstein NT2038

Why not? The Bernstein I have is excellent. No splashing and the water seems to "scour" the pan to clean it better when it flushes.

Must be made of money! That bog's not rimless.

As kids we would go to our local timber yard and be allowed to climb down into the saw blade pit and fill up carrier bags with shavings for our pet rabbits and guinea pigs. Blade must have been 6 or 8' in diameter and razor sharp. Sometimes they would even switch the saw off! ? H&S would have a fit nowadays.

? If I go there I'll certainly be digging a deep hole... Theres surprisingly little volume left to fill inside the pillars.

The holes provide a nice key for the mortar, they match up with the holes in ths bricks. Lots of lateral support.