Onoff

Base the design on whatever capacity you end up with it won't be enough.

Back to efficient storage... Caravan esque seating. Not wanting it built in but freestanding. Close to the wall, notched around the skirting. I was thinking almost church pew style ends. End frames in ply? Can't decide whether to have a gap (4, 6"?) underneath. Thinking yes. Foam for the top, long cushions will be expensive from last time I looked.

My mistake, the GCE was the O Level. Employers considered the CSE grade 1 a C grade O Level from memory.

Weren't they the same thing? I got just 3 O Levels. English Language, Geography and Design & Technology. All at grade C. The rest D to U. Yes, U. My father delights in telling my kids how he only ever picked me up from school from detention.

I'm trying to convince SWMBO to ditch the hand me down 3 piece in the conservatory which we never ever sit out in and which is covered in accumulated crap. Along with a couple of random occasional tables and the cabinet the fish tank is on: Now the bathrooms done I've lost my storage space! ? In it's place I'd like L shaped caravan style seating with lift up cushions and storage. It really would help.

Taking a step back here, could it be primarily as Dave said the DG pans simply weren't installed properly? Don't suppose you can see the packs?

I think they're some form of low profile security slide bolt?

HND? Wow you're clever! My missus has plonked all my ONC notes in the lounge for me to "sort" as part of her current clearout of one of the hip end loft spaces. Sort...she means bin! ? I f**ked up not completing my HNC. I blame cars, girls and drink.

Some info here expanding on what @ProDave mentioned: https://www.alextradeframes.com/technical/toe-heel

Toeing and heeling they call it.

If you plan on tiling later then my understanding is that "ordinary" pva can become re "wetted" if you get leaks through the grout and cause the tiles to lift. (You can get waterproof pva). I used thinned down SBR as a dust sealer on the concrete. Firstly on the basis its waterproof, second it could be used as an alternative to the tanking primer. Worked really well as it was a couple of YEARS before I got round to tiling.

I'd hazard that's a failure of the door construction / glue used. However...if the inside has dried out so quick that its shrunk in all planes, guessing you could see this. Others will hopefully comment shortly. Do you know of anybody else who's had doors etc made by these people and have had issues? I'm v.suprised this was cheaper than upvc. Was no upvc your choice or a condition?

Timber now tends to be from species selected for their fast growth properties. What timber was used do you know, a kiln dried redwood maybe?

See the bigger gap at the top on the left. I'm assuming the bottom of the door, lock side is catching? I'd also say the door joints at the bottom are coming apart slightly. Big, heavy double glazed panel?

Video works alright. Can't see much as to why the leaks. The frame joint in the top left appears to have been nicely done for example suggesting an attention to detail elsewhere. Maybe some views of seals, rubbers at the openings. I am right these are all custom made but in softwood? Wouldn't timber effect upvc have been cheaper?

I'd be integrating it I think, fixed at floor and ceiling. As an aside would you want to not have UFH pipes running under it if they're planned? Must sleep now...MDF dreams I'm sure!

Don't have ornaments. "We" have loads. I keep referring to them as "hard core" much to SWMBO'S displeasure. Was thinking this sort of thing for sliding doors: https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/hush-sliding-door-gear-600x1200mm-maximum-door-size-407687? Can you CAD something up in 3D? Thinking MDF with pinned on mouldings if going for painted. Pinterest is probably your friend for ideas.

And your ornaments might vibrate! ?

Sliding doors? I've a How To Make Loudspeakers book here from years back. You could even maybe design proper, bassy, speaker enclosures within the construction.

Take the picture below, a door I assume: By painting the outside you have in effect sealed the surface so as to limit moisture in/out. The unfinished side, inside will now dry out quicker and contract. Some truth in what your builder is saying I think unfortunately.

This one's sure to divide opinion...

Are they steel parts? If so then I've had good results of late with citric acid.

Yes, quite feasible. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/propane-cylinder-as-air-receiver.31471/

I found that rebar bit I mentioned a while back in this thread. 20mm, SDS, German Hawera brand:

Really not an issue.