Onoff

Are you considering tanking behind the new tiled area?

I would in case you upset / break the waste pipe underneath.

How about this: Centre punch the nail heads. Then use a spot weld drill to take the heads off. When you remove the plate just hammer the protruding bits of nail in a bit more. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AK4728-Sealey-HSS-Cobalt-Spot-Weld-Drill-6-x-66mm-Drill-Bits-Sets/312240744435?

If ever that gets done I assume you firstly get it fully emptied then collapse the lid in with a digger? Do you attempt to sanitise the area in any way? Lime over it?

Shows the slide hammer action:

My chippy mate gave them to me. Pretty amazing tbh. They'll pull out angular ring nails from 3/4" ply on joists. The knob on the end you can welt the inbuilt slide hammer to drive the pincer teeth round the nail head.

I'd love to live in a caravan whilst my wife stays in our current house......

What about a nail puller? I've two similar to this. Hoping they'll get the nails out of the ply on the dormer roof when I redo that:

It's Dettol in the bucket! (I really struggle with poo and drain smells. I even wear a dust mask with a few drops of neat lavender oil inside when doing stuff like that). When I took the yellow bung out of the soil pipe in the wall I quickly put the plastic bag over the open end. The bung that had been stuck in the smelly pipe went straight in the Dettol.

What about smacking something like a wood grenade into the slab to crack it? Be a pita if it's got mesh in it. You'd only get localised, easily repairable damage then.

Has your laptop not got Snipping Tool built in under Windows Accessories?

I've pushed a balloon into wastes before then inflated them.

Yee-haw!

Do you have a fork lift or tractor with forks? Jam under the screed and lift! You might achieve the same effect with a 6' pry bar and something to pivot on. Otherwise bfo sledge hammer and see if the screed will crack up in manageable pieces. Assisted by that nice orange crow bar. Then shift, peel of the vcl and reclaim all that lovely pir.

Plastic bag and duct tape. You can get both from Lidl/Aldi. If you take the wc out you might want to invest in a test bung. Best practice overall is have another bathroom to use then you can take forever! ?

Pretty sure that was a Witch Best Buy...

The voice of reason. I like that idea. I like it a lot. ? Edit: The only downside is it will mean multiple room clearouts. I could do with a clear room & seperate storage area to shift stuff to / become a temporary "lounge" or whatever. The logistics always remind me of one of these puzzles ? Rough plan is stairs room next, then hall and large downstairs bedroom (all suspended floor). Large downstairs bedroom destined to be a kid's lounge with attached wc/shower room. Before that happens it'll become the temporary main lounge when I do the lounger / diner knock through. There IS a plan!

This video's a 3 parter: Step 1 - Hitch your trousers up:

Moving into petabytes are we?

The long term plan is to site a UFH manifold under the stairs, pretty much dead centre of the house in what we refer to as the stairs room. As it stands, with untouched original decor this is a video of the stairs room. (Beyond the curtain a study area, the old boot room I re-lined and brought the floor up). The stairs room is a junk room as is. Plan to have v.little floor space and big floor to ceiling storage cupboards. Rough plan is to clear this room entirely. Floor up, dig down and build back up with 150mm of pir. The UFH pipes I was thinking to lay through this room to all the other rooms within ducts within the floor. So this room will have no heating of it's own per se, just the pipes for the other rooms and the manifold and buffer tank under the stairs. The floor construction is strange. Concrete, the colour of plaster & not very thick, maybe 75mm on loose "rubble". As the short clip shows. It looks like it would come up very easily in big lumps. It's 11'x11' this room. So around 11.25m2. If the room was clear that wouldn't take long would it to dig up with me and my lad at it? Barrows go straight through the hall and out the front door. Could be dusty once the slab is up and were into shovelling the dry "rubble". At the moment the downstairs single pipe CH runs just under the floor surface. It's into this I'd break to heat my buffer tank indirectly: Still not sure what the iron pipe crossing the white 22mm by the door is or whether it's live: I ran that plastic length back when I "bypassed" the bathroom. Outside the stairs room it changes to old suspended floor on crumbling bricks and dirt floor. A couple of bits bugging me; should I leave as is the floor under the bottom stair landing? Did think about digging it up and maybe suspending the bottom landing /stairs from the ceiling joists temporarily. If I run ducts for later UFH loops, am I going to be fighting to get the tails of the pex-al-pex pipes through them? Or would a pb, more flexible pipe be better? Should the ducts be insulated where they pass through this room? I'd aim to have a 100mm concrete slab laid to screeding rails on the walls as it worked so well in the bathroom. Maybe CAD up a plan of all the future loops planned? A case of jfdi perhaps? ? Cheers

? For example:

Building regs are statutory instruments I thought?

So if @pocster goes for the 600mm one, with no joint, then how's about that, then?

I've suggested he join the forum to document his build and get advice unless you know of a specific home cnc builder's forum? He's just changed jobs where his shift pattern gives him 6 days off in a row so he needs to fill his time up somehow! This was his last (abandoned) project: https://thameshighway.wordpress.com/2017/09/30/sad-end-for-oldest-thames-tug-britannia/ "...rather criminally..." ?

@JSHarris, received that board today. Many thanks again. ?