Onoff

Trying to get shot of me more like!

Mine is at nom. 445mm, floor to top of seat: Bit about it here, with other's thoughts, to save you wading through War & Peace: EDIT: Page 20 of W&P as I cant seem to link the page.

Didn't do anything on the 14th but to make it up to her I took her to a reclaimation yard on Sunday.

I'll measure later the finished floor to top of basin. Seem to remember similar dilemmas over how high to have the WC seat off the floor!

I think from memory I might have CT1'd the back of the basin to the tiles too...I certainly did the pedestal to the floor and the basin to the pedestal. That alone would probably hold things up! It was cleaned of flush with the Fugi silicone tool, then when dry gone over with a bead of Forever White.

Just a strong, waterproof wood glue https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood-glue/p61864?

Tbh you could go 8 or 9x2 even. Try and avoid your sink fixing screws hitting the screws that fix the noggin. I went a bit ott and let the 6x2 into the studs. I did you'll note add a cheeky 2" onto the 6x2 (on the right hand side) which was a bit short! Everthing screwed and D4 glued.

Driven by where it sat on the pedestal. Then sat it on a stool roughly the right height just to get a feel. Aim was to have the fixing bolts dead centre along the 6x2. It really is solider than a solid thing. There's a bit here about it too:

My sink screws to the bfo 6x2 screwed in horizontal: Then the sink fixings (bought seperate from S'fix) that have a bolt thread one end and a woodscrew the other end into that 6x2: If I hadn't have had a pedestal I'd have overboarded with 1/2" marine ply rather than 1/2" mrpb.

Not mine, I've been asked. Anyone changed the brushes on a Bosch GSR 18 VE 2-LI? Looks like there's 4 brushes from the pics. You can lift up the brush spring with a hooked paperclip but the brush doesn't slide out. (Much easier on a Makita!)

+1 on aerialsandtv. I went with a specific Band A Yagi here in the end. Vastly superior to the "WB", wideband tat you get from the DIY sheds. If you're in a weak or fringe area I'd go band specific everytime. Just check what your transmitter puts out. Mind I've made a few aerials along the way. My favourite is the corner reflector/ trough antenna. Still got 2 neighbours running on these that I made, one in sheet ali and one in galv mesh. Can integrate well on a gable end with just the top and bottom "wings" and dipole visible. Windage can be a problem. The ones I've done are horizontally polarized to suit the transmitter. I'm unfortunate being at the lowest elevation of all of us. My Yagi is on a pole about 100' from the house if not more.

QU R323 dual receiver?

SBS do a 2x12 (so 22-way) and it's only 279mm wide: PRICES 2019 - JULY.pdf

Dungeness Nuclear Power Station it is then! (Just one of the honeymoon highlights ?).

Something based on an anagram of all your names?

Thinking Nevahdun here. SWMBO vetoed Gőttwood...

Try an app like this? Chuck in a few pertinent names relative to the location and see what comes up: https://www.name-generator.org.uk/house/ Maybe not it seems to ask for a bit too much info?

Normally, with flat tiles, I'd say tile first then fit the profile as you'll only need to worry about a few points being sealed up i.e the screw holes. As for textured tiles... @Nickfromwales will be along shortly! ? How textured are we talking about? Guess if you do butt the tiles to the profile, with the profile in effect in a channel then it's a job for copious CT1 and baby wipes. Doubly important to tank the wall too methinks.

This is a good read ref @Barney12''s gutter detail:

You know it makes sense! ? At least you'll know where you are with one system, i.e all wireless.

I skimmed my mrpb wall and ceiling. @nod, what say you?

To muffle the screams.

? Used boxes of the metal ones over the years. Stuck in my head they were steel for some mad reason. Good shout on winding the "wrong" screw in first. Metal curly wurlies it is then! (Still smiling here that they're ali). I generally I must admit drill a hole first in the pb to minimise damage/bulging as they screw in.

Ta both. I use the metal self drill ones a lot I should have perhaps said. Was only thinking plastic as it won't ever rust and streak down the wall. Sometimes think too you ideally need to use the screw that comes with them? Not overly keen that the mirror screws aren't stainless. This mirror needs to go on now simply to keep madam quiet but come off again later as I've a demister pad to go on the back. Thinking maybe these, if they don't work I can change to the metal curly wurlies.

SWMBO wants me to fit a mirror for some reason! On this white wall central to the basin. It'll cover that 1G back box: Plastered wall, 1/2" moisture resistant plasterboard on 50mm battens and infilled with PIR. It'll be one of these screws: But what "plugs" to use? 8 gauge screws in each case which I think equates to just over a 4mm screw. I was thinking these but use the mirror screws above, instead. Says suits "4.5x35" screws. ?