Onoff

Unsightly black waste? Foil tape! ?

Sell 'em? Might sweeten the deal on the walk on glass.

Spray cellulose or spray foam like Icynene?

The fact my HW in the hot water cylinder is higher than 48degC makes me think I need to be making some sort of adjustment to the shower mixer. Seem to remember a moveable stop in there but I didn't play with it.

Guessing I've not set mine (same as yours?) up properly then as I can turn it to "bloody hot"?

I thought filter access was from the front? Hope so as I went to great lengths to give at least token access for getting tools to service my thermostatic mixer. Even bought a box spanner more often used on a Landrover! Used "normal" silicone in a horseshoe (open at the bottom) on the cover plate that will need prising off:

Do you mean a 63A RCD? That wouldn't provide over current protection for the armoured run...

Did you clad then cut the cladding to suit the doors / windows?

Overall he seemed to be quite thorough there. Mind he started off so well with his broom, wheelbarrow and shovel but then pushed a load of crap into the road rather than put it in the barrow. That's just plain lazy. Wtf does he think it's going to go? You'll quite likely drag some back onto the drive when you pull in next.

I like @Nickfromwales folding door panels one he did. It was the inspiration for my wet room corner. No doors on mine though that may happen in the future and there are strong points in the walls to take them.

I like Bedec Barn Paint but have only used their satin black.

What do you want to paint, interior, exterior?

Not dead, just resting!

I've found different makes of "110mm" pipe have different tolerances. Hell, even the same brands seen to vary as this video shows. I made the mistake of running the brown pipe internally when I shoud have used grey: I ended up stuffing the brown pipe into the best fitting grey, using gap filling pvc cement from a tube rather than a brush on can and backed it all up with a smear of CT1

I quite like the lab/bench type boxes so you can mount sockets up under wall cupboards and facing downward. For example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-Worktop-Station-Socket-Pedestal/dp/B07VXRKN78/ref=asc_df_B07VXRKN78/?

You might have swayed me had you dived in when I was asking the whole door handle height thing! I do like the logic of light switch height and door handles being the same. Having had elderly parents fall and then specifically say, "I couldn't reach the door handle!" I now though err towards lower than higher. I think too it depends on the door style. I mulled where to put my bathroom locks & handles recently but in the end went centre level with the top of midrail. With hindsight I might have equispaced them about the centre line of the midrail. Metalwork cost more than the paper mache doors in the end!

Think about it. You build an extension on the back of your existing lounge then knock the wall through to make one big room. In your existing lounge you've loads of sockets and switches at whatever height. It'd look fu**ing silly to put the ones in the new room at 450/1200. No one can make you go with the new heights not even the BCO. But if doing a complete rewire or new build it makes sense to go with the new heights aside from compliance. If your existing sockets are sat on the skirting then that's daft, further down to lean etc especially when your older. Now your two new rooms, they're separate from the original rooms so there's no visuals to worry about them matching. Blu-tac a socket at 450 up and a switch at 1200 and see what you think. Treat a workbench like a kitchen worktop and put the sockets no lower than 150mm from top of bench to centre of socket. It prevents the wire from the plug getting put under strain.

I actually really like top of switches no higher than 1200 and bottom of sockets no lower than 450. As I go through this place redoing rooms that's the height I put them.

Wherever you want as it's an extension and not a new build or rewire pretty much.

The OSG, (On Site Guide) makes no mention of the 450 / 1200 dimensions being to the centre lines. In fact it says "between" and shows the top of the switches at 1200 and the bottom of the sockets at 450.

No, not all. Think a high level tv socket, fan isolator switch etc. Not a lot of point in saying you need a fan switch at low level for a person in a wheelchair to isolate the fan that they couldn't get to anyway.

Except Part M 1.18 is contradictory! Says to the centre line but shows the lower sockets with the bottom edge at 450mm! Just put bottom edge of sockets no lower than 450mm, top edge of switches no higher than 1200mm.

That's good. Clipped direct against timber is not considered totally surrounded!

I'm looking in the OSG, specifically Table F2. If the cable is totally surrounded by thermal insulation, for example 500mm or more then you must derate by a factor of 0.5. It assumes the insulation has a thermal conductivity greater than 0.04 Wm-1K-1. (Sorry, can't do "to the power" of on this phone). Surrounded for only 50mm of its length it's still a factor of 0.88. In layman's terms, passing through insulation creates a pinch point/hot spot for the cable.

Over what length will it pass through the "loft roll" and will it be totally surrounded by said thermal insulation? It's important as you may have to apply a derating factor.