Onoff

Bloke walks into a pub...those were the days! ? Love to, first round's on me. Glad we found that pub, great food and loads of it, really friendly staff etc.

I do have an affinity for the IoW. Especially the pubs... Looks like that won't be happening this year! ?

Continuing down the latest rabbit hole that is an enclosure for the 3D printer... Oddly enough the neighbouring farm didn't want anything for this. Let me and my lad take it FOR NOTHING! His loss! ? AND I can take the scrap back to the pile. Got to go back for the filament storage area (bottom draws) and doors. Just hoping the assorted greenhouse glass I've got will fit the sides without cutting. Got a bfo thick piece of chipboard for a nice heavy shelf for the printer. Castors too sitting in the shed looking for a home. Find the Sharpie & fire up the grinder!

I believe @Onoff flies by the seat of his pants for the most part, doesn't work to a budget and pays no attention to costs. Now to to most people that's a non starter but as he takes so long complete anything costs are spread and don't particularly impact. Sketches are done on CAD but repeatability is an issue as he forgets what he called the drawing and/or where he filed it. Somehow it generally works out alright! ?

...and we also need a tongue in cheek emoji!

300mm of eps I think he has?

I'm assuming he's meaning ordinary eps. Doesn't eps/pir have to rated compression strength wise for under floor use?

Thanks but what's that %age wise?

Sorry, just changed the thread title to Workshop which is what most are building. More glorified sheds than garages.

Over on a different forum people are putting up their workshop builds. One lad, just about to start so I suggest putting 150mm of insulation under his slab and some UFH pipes. For all weather comfort, future living space maybe etc. He comes back with "I've got some 50mm polystyrene, will that do?" I know anything's better than nothing but any idea of the percentage heat loss down through 50mm eps vs 150mm pir? Just to give him an idea. Cheers.

That truss roof came as a kit. Take it apart carefully and sell on.

6m x 10m surely?

One of the many reasons why my back is like it is. S'funny how I'd always find the strength to lift something if it was free. No change there then. ?

Certainly 15mm Sound Bloc (blue) does what it says on the tin. As I got some free (3m boards) I used it on a couple of walls and you can hear zilch from the other side. More meat there too with 15mm when cutting out for downlights, dry lining boxes etc.

I was spelling it for him, in colour and big words as God knows how, your sketch still prompted questions! ?

This is how the wood doesn't "negate the whole idea", in greater detail and pretty colours with labels: - You fill you gap with sealant. That still allows expansion. - You lay your vinyl tiles - Screw a nosing, ideally hardwood, to the cill. The floor is free to expand in/out under the nosing. There's no joint between underside of nosing and vinyl tiles so it'll "slide" if required.

Why not do a wall in each of the suggested paints and make your own mind up? ?

Can we have a tongue in cheek emoji please?

What about the TF expanding? ?

No help but...

Used once to buy x2 2.5L tins of Waxoyl underbody sealant of all things. No issues tbh.

Mine...is my brother in law's...I win!

There's a few lads on the US solar forum use plain sand for heat storage. There used to be a mix we came across on commercial roofs that was always termed "light agg", light aggregate was what I took it to be. Futher reading suggests this was expanded clay balls called Lytag. Roofs were laid to falls on the stuff and it was often really, really thick. It was laid on top of the structural slab and before the asphalt. I always wondered if it had insulating properties because of the air gaps. This: https://www.specialistaggregates.com/lytag-fill%C2%AE-814mm-aggregate-p-2330.html

Because of price? Dulux is expensive.

I was recommended it on here. It is very, very good. Possibly the best paint I've ever used tbh. It's got a very subtle sparkle to it to my eyes. For the pre coats inc a watered down 1st coat I used Leyland Super Leytex that's high opacity and good on new plaster. Tbh that looked bloody good on it's own. Any imperfections I filled with Easy Fill 20 before AND after the Super Leytex. (No I don't work for Deluxe or Leyland or British Gypsum!).