Onoff

@zoothorn.. my dear fellow. Hence my reading most of your posts less than I would.

I split the difference and ordered a cast piece 5mm thick, 550x550 with polished edges. Just over £20 delivered. Cheers. Lad is mulling a Pi camera set up so he can remotely see what's printing.

Just think how soon you might have got thd "right" answer with a few more pictures rather than trying to convey things with words!

This printer bed is allegedly designed to allow printing of ABS without adhesion promoters. You need however to protect against draughts causing sudden cooling of the piece etc. One worry is what size/speed fan for fume extraction that doesn't take out too much heat.

Looking to make an enclosure for the 3D printer. Probably on castors and likely with a pc fan at the back for fume extract to a window for when printing ABS. It'll in effect be two 600mm cubes. Top one for the printer and the lower one shelved out for storage. Plan for the top is to have a vertically sliding clear panel. This will nominally be 600x600. Not sure what to use, acrylic, polycarbonate etc. Also what thickness? Any thoughts? Cheers.

My 1863 terrace was built very similarly on just a widening of bricks as "footings".

Fill any gap between the different type of boards with No Nails or similar once the floor is down. If you mask up with tape you'll get it dead neat when you take it down level with a paint scraper or whatever.

Buy a camera ffs! ? Have you not got a modern smart phone with a camera? It would stop people having to assume / guess etc all the time. For example: https://www.morgancomputers.co.uk/c/426/Compact-Bridge-Cameras/

This is going to sound really daft but is is that you are just looking at the tongue from two different sides? I have no experience of Caber but the T&G type chipboard flooring I'm used to has the tongue longer one side to fit the corresponding female. Best pic I could find: Is that you just need to turn those two errant boards through 180deg and they will match the others? Might just have been the way they were loaded at the BM. As for the glued and screwed I'd assumed these boards are going to be screwed onto joists that have pir in between. Also that you will be gluing afvthe T&G joint. No I'm not referring to screwing to the pir. Only a f@ckwit would do that! ?

It may be that someone on the street has had the same thing done albeit properly. They might talk to you about who did it and even still have the written specification/drawings. Unfortunately it doesn't mean you can just copy it. Each job has to be assessed on it's own merits. It might lead you to their SE who's done it before and keep the cost of that element down.

My glass seems like its stuck on to the aluminium bed. With double sided tape maybe?

Planning permission. In part it's a wall next to a highway: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/20/fences_gates_and_garden_walls

I've heard of instances where councils have fined people for being parked on the parking space they have created in front of their house because they have driven across the pavement where there is no approved dropped kerb.

I'm looking to make an enclosure for this printer. I can knock one up in timber with a "glass" front/door or I've some nice brass angle I figure might make a fish tank esque one. Ideally I'd like to have the printer inside and print smelly stuff like ABS. I'm lost though as to how "airtight" the box needs to be, if at all. Maybe on castors and tall with a storage cabinet below. Or should it be vented (to the outside) to get rid of the smells? Then though will I be venting heat I want to retain for printing ABS? Maybe some sort of integral charcoal filter? Printing in a hot box, is it detrimental to the printer's electronics? Should the spool be mounted externally through a feeder tube? So many newbie questions I appreciate! Any pointers appreciated.

Just remembered, I did that too!

I used garden flints along the line of and under my 1' deep gravel boards. This was in a place I now rent out. 30 years later they're still good. The 8' concrete posts too are perfect. I painted the concrete gravel boards and posts with Thompsons Water Seal. I'm sure that helped. The wooden fence is knackered mind. I'll be replacing it as soon as this bloody lockdown is over!

Not sure. Doing some more reading and in theory, because of the special bed design on this printer model, adhesion promoters aren't required. However, best results are achieved if the whole printer lives in a draught free enclosure. Cue my next project!

Grated ABS, solvent weld pipe fittings seemed to dissolve pretty well in LIDL Baufix thinners into a slurry. Painted it on a crafty corner of the black glass patio table and it dried to a film. By Christ has it stuck. You can barely scrape it off with your nail. Neat IPA takes it off OK.So then tried it on a corner of the Anycubic i3 Mega S. The bed is glass but with a coating of some sort with tiny holes in. Gets good reports for adhesion.The ABS slurry seems to have filled the holes in the bed coating. It's a pig to get off. This is AFTER cleaning with IPA.Can't take this bed off seemingly. Undid the corner clips but it wouldn't budge. Any ideas?Don't really want to put slurry on the whole bed or hairspray. Is it that I can get an "over bed" to go atop this one I wonder?

Explains what you want to do perfectly. Really...get professional advice.

At the bottom of the slope is where the new flat area for parking will be / start from. How much parking space you end up with is dictated by where the 45deg slope ends. My fag packet sketch is very rule of thumb just to show the concept. Things to consider are leaving a width in front of the house for future access like maintenance and cleaning windows. Similarly you don't want to expose too much of your foundation to weathering by the elements. Hopefully you'll see this is more than just dig it out and hope for the best. You might well need building control approval. If it all go t!ts up and the front wall of the house develops cracks, subsidence or worse it might well invalidate your insurance. Really not trying to scare you. The only way to cut back fully, to say within 3' of the house is to get structural engineer's input and likely build a big, reinforced U shaped wall. You might even need temporary supports to the house whilst you do. Similarly I'd get an SE even to go the 45deg route.

Something like this I think he means: In fact I've seen places where the slope gets paved.

Nobody's disputing that at all, why would you even keep batting on about it? You have an issue people are trying to help. Move on. Presumably and as ever without decent photos I'm guessing, the boards you've already laid have finished with the tongue sticking out? Furthermore that you've glued and screwed these. Judging by everything else you'll have done a fine job and they ain't coming up again! ? Have you finished the boards you've done the full width of the room? If you could modify by routing, the groove down JUST the long side of the wrong boards to fit the tongue of the laid, correct boards you could carry on. Doesn't really matter it the joints don't line up. As said above you're well supported by the PIR underneath. If you're in lockdown you might as well get creative!

You're a dab hand with a router, can't you modify the tongues? Might be an option if you can't get out or get it delivered etc.

We've zero experience printing with ABS here. I've made up two jars of ABS slurry in the absence of pure acetone, with foam gun cleaner and then thinners, both listing acetone as the first ingredient. In both cases I think the results aren't "smooth" enough to coat the bed without the remaining, undissolved ABS fibres being thicker than the first layer and affecting the print. Can't figure why if they started dissolving the ABS why it hasn't continued. In both cases the ABS was scrap print material. That has therefore been heated & cooled. I wonder if fresh ABS off of the reel would work better? Foam Gun Cleaner: LIDL Baufix Thinners: If anything the foam gun cleaner (first picture) looks to have finer "bits" in. The Baufix thinners one seems to have some long strands in there.

Thanks. So the 3 cell battery is 3x3.6V=10.8V but the peak voltage is 12V. Much in the same way the 5 cell ones are 5x3.6V=18V but some drills quote the peak like Parkside, Ferrex etc.