Onoff

3D print an over grille. Job done.

I recently went with Fusebox and tbh am impressed. My induction hob is on a B curve, 32A RCBO and it's fine.

I heard rumours of a planner's plans, plans that should never have been passed, getting "lost" within the planning office system. The plans were passed given the length of time they'd been "lost".

Think yourself lucky. I've a concrete slab and footings to shift. It has grano chip concrete with chain link fencing as the reinforcing.

If you have the time, once you've cut the pb out for the dry lining box then paint the cut edge with PVA and let it dry. It really does hold it all together and "harden" the exposed edge for the future. I use my multi tool now rather than a pad saw as an aside.

I imagine you'd forced it in too hard as usual.

Always found the point of a needle best for getting the little caps out. I remember being paranoid in case the kids/cat swallowed one. Some screw covers do have a slot for a small, watchmakers style, flat bladed screwdriver.

Good lad, fire up the CAD!

Print replacements you tart!

All councils generally have portals like this where you search for an application with just the postcode:

I remember. Still in your loft isn't it?

With the 3D printer now, making a "holder" for the drinking straws into which you can pour a sealant should be a doddle.

I'd use flexible tile adhesive and a full bed at that under the tray. As I'm slow I wouldn't use rapid set, just leave it for a couple of days. Not sure on the depth of the "recess" under the tray. If "deep" you can save on adhesive by bonding a cement board down first to take up some of the gap. You can get Aqua Panel for instance in 6mm. You'd have to cut it to go around the trap of course. Stick that down then more on top followed by the tray. Only what I've learnt on here. Standing on the shoulders of giants etc.

The Jet Blue Plus (other similar products are available) acts as both a seal and lubricant on brass compression joints. The fitting doesn't make that horrible squeak when doing it up and screws up a tad more.

Back it off smear with Jet Blue Plus & re tighten. Worked for me on an 8bar incomer. I use it religiously now on compression fittings. No messing around with PTFE tape. It just works and the joints never weep / go green.

This is the one my mate bought his lad (12, 13?). He was well happy. He just wanted to print straight off. Didn't want him to have to assemble, tinker, upgrade (dare I say learn!) He's printing toys, fidgets etc whereas my lad is designing and printing real world, engineering stuff. https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?variant=41918452170812&skr=yes&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9IC6BhA3EiwAsbltOEuwPlj8A0ehYRKsD5SeXNSIxYpgyrGxDRM0CkmND-UDOW7dTbXMbBoCpVEQAvD_BwE That's £169 + £8 delivery I think. Pros: The cheapest Bambu there is. Printing straight out of the box. Cons: Single colour printing, no AMS. As I say cheaper to buy the AMS now than later. Later though is always a present option for his birthday etc.

Not at all. You're not restricted to Bambu filaments either. How old is he? Maybe a Bambu A1 Combo? Comes with the AMS (enables 4 colour printing). £389.00. Got a budget? https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/a1?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9IC6BhA3EiwAsbltOB8hyYzUcQWxmlOit0BlU3j1lLeKa5D_LkJD6ZPH7ASffRN-Qlf3BBoC7SsQAvD_BwE&id=40885928558652 A mate at work asked, I said Bambu and he just got his son the X1 Mini. The envy of his mates! For Christmas he's now getting the add on AMS but it's a lot more if bought separately. So glad my lad had the Anycubic i3 Mega S to start with. (Thanks @PeterW). Learnt, tinkered, modded and upgraded way beyond the stock spec. Tbf he was getting quality not far off the Bambu with it but so much slower. (It's just sat in a box now). The support possibilities with the Bambu AMS are the game changer for him / us. Tbh him getting the X1C is like a treat / reward. Why I went halves on it with him but it's solely his.

Bambu were due to make a significant announcement a little while back but I believe they've held off. Think is was ref a bigger volume machine. Guess they're waiting until they've got it right (again).

For now and I say that as someone who's invested in the Bambu X1C. They can't afford to rest on their laurels. Other core XYs are catching up with bigger volume, heated chambers etc.

Seems like there's a number of ways of doing this then. Cement board Fire board Steel sheet Vermiculite board

She got given those free from someone I think. Another local supplied the split, locally felled ones on the left.

As an aside, seeing how those existing beams are a bit blackened, I wonder if it would be worth screwing some asbestolux board or similar over them, at least for the width of the fire? Not that it's an "open" fire per se. More worried about the heat on them than flames.

Cement board I could do. Not so sure about my skimming skills but I'd give it a go! Going the "register plate" route might allow for easier removal later on.

Never heard of it until now. Thanks. Looks like vermiculite board is a goer too: https://shop.vitcas.com/help/free-standing-stove/what-should-i-use-for-a-register-plate.html#:~:text=We recommend using a Vermiculite,flue pipe with a jigsaw.

Something I'm looking at up the pub. There is an open fire in the other bar but this stove is the only form of heating downstairs in use when it's not a pub. (Upstairs she and the kids rely on electric oil filled rads). Used to have Calor central heating and cooking but that got too expensive. Looking then at the chimney above this inglenook (?) fireplace: Not sure if the flue is twin wall? Inspection hatch: Some people locally have apparently "boarded" directly above the stove to get more heat into the room. I was mulling something like this. Either fireproof plasterboard or perhaps better, sheet steel supported by the timbers either side. Then Rockwool batts above. Any thoughts?