Onoff

Not sure tbh. Surprising how imposing the frame is. Though above the boiler and burner is dead space, you do tend to skirt the burner when you walk in/out and your elbows at least, if not upper body pass through that space. Chamfering the corner might "soften" the look/feel...but could compromise access to the boiler stat... What I really need is a plant room! ?

Says it all really... ? (What's the "cross in a box"?)

Been in a similar situation before then? ?

Not sure where this is going...this Wickes timber is a bit poor tbh. Really don't know if it's going to work. I'll end up with a big warm cupboard. Useful for I'm not sure what. Seems to come out quite far but it's only 2" further than the front of the Riello burner. I've got SWMBO giving it "I didn't know it'd stick out that far!" First time for everything I suppose! ? Still, the fake Makita recip saw had an outing:

Could it be the big hole in the ceiling? ? Seriously, have you any major draughts? Maybe light a smoking joss stick and go round the window? (French doors isn't it?)

That nog doesn't have to be one piece at 72mm. You could make it up out of stacked, thinner bits with some glue in between for belt and braces. You must have some offcuts around?

I'm just really impressed you found a broom!

If you don't have the tools? Most of us would run a bit of 4x2 through a table saw. You could hand saw a bit down along its length with a decent sharp saw. Top might be a bit off square but so what. Jigsaw it even.....

Right angled driver might help...DeWalt the best attachment imho for going on a cordless drill but pricey though. Lidl/Aldi often do them. Or cut your noggin to a nice fit. Push it in with a couple of loose bits of timber to stop it going in too far then pop some screws in on the angle. Probably easiest.

I've some 8mm dia stuff with a minimum breaking strain of 33kN. Has 3 0.96mm2 electrical cores in it.....and it's German! ?

I can pop a good length of 2mm dia stainless 7x7 wire rope in the post and some copper ferrules like this: Really you need a proper crimping tool but I can't post that! You can achieve a good enough crimp using electrical crimp tool or mole grips and a pop rivet shaft for the light loads I imagine you're taking about. It'll be a good test of your air tightness if it sways in the breeze! ?

Fair point that. You can get "brown" frame sealant. It's achieving a nice bead is the issue. Easy to make a crap job. https://www.toolstation.com/window-door-external-frame-sealant-300ml/p76921? I used an Evostik product about 35 years ago on a prefab garage and am sure it said "good for 25 years" on the tube. I replaced a door by cutting and dropping in gravel boards. Irregularly repainted with Sandtex the "silicone" or whatever it was is still good.

I'd maker good the mortar then CT1 those gaps and baby wipe off.

Thanks. Would you ever tank onto them for a wet room or are they inherently waterproof? Presume you use a particular BG compound at the joints?

My teenager manages to get water to the farthest corners of the bathroom somehow. Far beyond the wet room corner. As blind as a bat without glasses I can only imagine they hold the shower hose and deliberately do a pirouette. So glad I tanked! The ability to kick the used towel round the floor afterwards also seems to have escaped them along with selecting the number 1 or 2 buttons on the WC flush plate and actually pressing it rather than admiring themselves in the shiny chrome! I blame the parents.

D'you mean no tile primer needed?

Don't forget about making your back boxes airtight!

Silicone in the fixing holes?

I wonder if it would be feasible to first try and cut the bottom 5 tiles in situ with a suitable diamond disc? At the depth of course of the new tray. The tiles could then sit atop the new tray rather than the tray abutting the tiles. It might make for a better waterproofing detail...

The grinder arrived, it's very.....orange:

Taking ages to finish is considered a good thing in some circles...

You've time to re do that one with the double hole in then! ?

A bit of silicone grease is your friend on those pipes and round the rubber.

Think I'd be running a scalpel around the damaged area to define an "edge" beyond which is guaranteed stuck down paint.

I've started on framing the boiler in, well I've cut and marked a few bits of 2x2, ready to do some housing joints on the radial arm saw! I figure I should dig out and redo the fire cement. It's a bit cracked. Are all fire cements made equal? (Excuse photo quality).