Onoff

Can't really tell, not knowing what it's for either.

I'd expect a plastic lid to be kicking around either ground or square on these lines:

Deep pockets?

Jeremy had a Seek camera.

FLIR is the name to conjure with. They do standalone cameras or ones than attach to your Android or Crapple phone. Nephew has one, really good. He has one of the C range. https://www.flir.co.uk/browse/professional-tools/thermography-cameras/?page=2 @Jeremy HarrisHarris had one, not sure if FLIR.

So a traditional roof with the tiles cemented on. Think a dry ridge is much more forgiving.

The tiles crack themselves or the mortar joints between? Presumably this was a traditional build rather than a dry ridge?

My ceiling speakers... They fit in from the ceiling side but the screws go into silly little clips above the pb. In this pic three clips used, with the 4th screw into the adjacent noggin. Long term the plan is a fire hood like this: It'll be pushed down onto a bead of intumescent sealant. The gap between pir and hood will then be gun foamed. The speaker cable will come up through a conduit and sealed with Wiska gel. It'll be as good as I can get getting back to airtight as I cut a bfo in the vcl. 2nd pic above you can just see the green vcl through where the foil is split on the edge of the hole. What I need are "permanent" clips top side that I won't ever have to access again. Maybe a ply square with some threaded inserts? A steel plate with some tapped holes? I could stick either down to the pb topside.

I'm currently fortifying myself with nut vodka. I really must sort insulating the speaker, downlight and body drier holes in the ceiling at least!

I'll be showering in there in a bit.

Found 3 old, plain steel, slightly rusty, 100mm hinges, they'll do for my "door". Really heavy duty. Might give them a quick citric acid bath as a treat. I always seem to make up a hinge jig per project, for whatever hinge I'm using and then scrap it! For use with my diddy Bosch router. Always come out a treat mind, even in crappy softwood or reclaimed rough stuff. Usually out of flooring t&g offcuts or MDF. Might try and keep this one and write on it what it's for then give it a coat of varnish.

If I cut out for a dry lining box I use a multi tool now, a massive step up from the old Stanley or pad saw imo. I then paint the exposed edge with pva and let it dry. Appreciate in a commercial setting there's no time to do that but it really helps keep it together. I tried those 1-gang and 2-gang box cutter "blades" from CPC for use in pb. Absolute crap. Whatever one I used the other stayed in the packet.

Don't forget the 25mm flat wood bit. (Though I'd use a 25mm holesaw).

The threaded insert I think is preferable to the curly wurly type where the coarse screw that comes with it has to bite into the fixing and cut its own thread. OK maybe the first time it's used but subsequent unscrewing can undo the fixing too and the pb around it crumbles. I as I say very carefully drill a pilot for them and try not to break out at the back (hence the gentle drilling). I've also "reinforced" the drilled hole with a good slug of PVA on the curly wurly and around the drilled hole. Your "butterfly" type go some way to mitigating a hole that's broken out at the back of the pb.

Not GRIPITS?

In awe as ever at your skill for a first time roofer and tenacity. Holiday? I hear the IoW's nice at this time of year! ? Sounds like an exotic location to me from where I'm sitting.

You might want to do a bit of a drawing with the existing wall area, the outline of the two mirrors and where the fixings will go. So on one wall you'll have four "X's". That's where you drill your holes for whatever fixings. GRIPITS are another option.

If using those metal "curly wurlys" I like to pilot first rather than drilling them straight into the board.

@MJNewton, thanks for that, very informative. Does the same warranty stand if you DIY it like @Russell griffiths griffiths did? What are those two little diagonal lines that look like splits? I'm still sold on it I think like you just for the ease of recoating.

Lost on some people....

It's basically a requirement of the 18th edition regs. The designer can avoid it if a risk assessment is carried out. Think though about how many things in a modern house could be fubar'd from a surge, be it from the supply side or atmospherics. From white goods to boiler controls along with the obvious mains connected routers, pcs etc. You might be able to mod your cu and do it up front or just individual circuits.

Meanwhile in @pocster's basement...

I was being serious. Isn't a case that if you have a working water supply they can deem it habitable?

FFS don't connect the water.

Council? I thought the police dealt with missing persons?