Onoff

@Barney12 did a really neat detail hiding his down pipes in his dormer.

IPhone? I'd buy walk on glazing before an Apple product ?

"Luckily" mine still hasn't turned up though it's been shipped according to Banggood on Mar 8th. Not bad for something ordered on 24th Jan! ?

Your world!

They employ fluffers?

That's the harder stuff with a greenish tinge?

Wickes MDF, horrible stuff, like compressed dog fur. I've had better quality MDF cover board.

I'll see what it looks like with a second coat. Guessing you don't pilot?

Counter-bored and filled my screw holes, deliberately, as I'm aiming for them flush. This is the primer I used, an old tin and I've no idea what sort of paint it is: Smells like "proper" paint and just about washes out with copious Fairy liquid and hot water. Looking for something I can fill over the top of the primer. Any ideas?

Oddly enough...I was reading the other day about the superiority of the German trenches in WW1! ?

Phwoar!

Slightly off topic but fair play to this lad. Only 28 and suffering colon cancer. He's 3D printed his tumour! I must dig out my spinal MRI files and print the damaged disc section! ?

Pictures might help...

May your roof lights leak forever and your walk on glazing never sell! ?

A couple of tanking videos. Same kit I used:

? And there was me trying to big you up!

Ta. I used 4x50s.

I'm simply saying to use an admix, not necessarily that one though it's just cheap and works.

Making a quick bedside table for No2 daughter in 18mm MDF. Space for her laptop, a shelf and bottle holder. She dictated how she wanted it. It'll be primed then roller painted black, probably with Bedec barn pain. I've glued with Gorilla glue and screwed with 4mm Goldscrews. Screw heads counter-bored as a feature and will be filled. (One joint is tbh just Gorilla glue so currently sat weighted down with some heavy books). Done now but one thing I never know, is there a need, particularly in MDF, to pilot drill first before screwing? I always do tbh.

Benefits of that waterproofer outweigh the costs. Makes the mix much easier to work with.

I just dug a 13m long trench, 700mm deep and 100-150mm wide. A mattock is invaluable and then some. Was using the flat to lift the spoil at the end. Less than my boots width. That was in clay. For digging straight down by hand, a relatively small hole then you won't go far wrong with one of these pronged digging tools followed by the digging spoons. Great too for general tilling of garden beds. Mine I think is Wilkinson Sword and has flat blade prongs. Don't think they make them any longer. This sort of thing but I'd say mine is more robust with the 4 heavy duty blades instead of round prongs: (Designed I think original for the elderly so save them bending etc).

Might be worth adding some of this to your mortar mix? I use it all the time: https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-202-integral-liquid-waterproofer/p80460 Think I add something like 1L to a builders bucket of water. Instructions: 202-Integral-Liquid-Waterproofer-V1.1.pdf

Why not a brass one (that wouldn't rust)?

No need. Fit the bib tap to the wall making sure the holes are nicely orientated. THEN put about 23 turns of tape on the thread and wind it in. You'll feel when it's tight enough, just never turn it back. I might add my render is rock solid.

Not sure on the Dutch regs but in the UK, in line with our regs, you can crimp or solder to effect a maintenance free joint. This was to demo joining two bits of T&E, 2.5mm new & old in this case, (note the cpc (earth) might be smaller): Dead easy on a bench, fiddly in a wall, even getting the crimping tool in of course: Strip the sheaths: Stagger the joints so you don't get the "python after a large meal" bulge in the middle. The join needs to be long enough so you can slip the heatshrink on and slide along far enough to do the crimping and ideally shrink the crimp without affecting the tubular heat shrink: Strip the ends: Heatshrink slipped on BEFORE you crimp! Crimp heat shrunk - has glue in that melts and sticks to the core: Green / yellow sleeving on. SOMETIMES as said above you might want a smaller crimp for the cpc: Cpc done: All neatly crimped, old colours for the heatshrink 'cos I've got it: Heatshrink over the top: Chuck it in the wall and get plastering! Similarly it could be soldered but make damn sure you get no sharp wispy bits of solder that might poke through the heatshrink!