Onoff

This help?

I shopped around and got my two Geberit flush plates (Kappa 20 Chrome Gloss) for around the £25 - 30 off of I think eBay & an end of line place. Both bnib. Need another one. There's a few Geberit spares can be found and 3D printed from Yeggi.

Didn't @Barney12 put a gshp coil in, very deep trenches from memory...did he ever connect it?

Didn't @Barney12 put a gshp coil in, very deep trenches from memory...did he ever connect it?

Got a cement mixer? ?

Wtf? Ladies accepting of different pans and frames ergo flush plates??? SWMBO here insisting on the same frames/flush plates and pans throughout. On the frames check, one Geberit fitted and two in storage ready to go. I need to get a 3rd Kappa flush plate from somewhere to make 3. The pans...so enamoured is she with our Bernstein NT2038 (wall hung, rimless), I have to get two more. £130 ish when I bought it from Germany originally. Now doubled in price!

@dpmiller, evening, figure you'll know! What's the mechanism on the reset button in the Riello burners? As in how does it work, what does it do exactly? Cheers

Just don't run to answer the door, smack your head and bite your tongue! Been there...

Do what our neighbour did and hire what I assume was cheap immigrant labour to do it by hand!

? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262548478444?hash=item3d211bd9ec:g:LPUAAOSwaB5XmMv8

What happened to the cheap concrete pokers on eBay & Amazon? Doesn't seem that long ago you could get a no name tool with wand for £39.99 or less brand new. Silly money now.

Looking like the mould idea will work. Some scrap 18mm ply (old site hoarding). The 3D printed bits will screw onto the sides. Tbh I should have done them at 9.5deg but they're at 9. These will support the top edge of the triangles that form the pyramid: I was aiming for 65mm and it's just over. Might change when all screwed together. I'm going to use spray adhesive and line the mould with DPM.

@Vijay, yep belt and braces. Gets pretty steamy in there do I went mrpb on the walls and ceiling. I did make my own niches up. Took some figuring out. Just studwork lined with Aquapanel then tanked and tiled. Around the part sunken bath it's mrpb and marine ply, again tanked.

With taped joints?

No such thing I don't think as waterproof plasterboard. There is moisture resistant, the green stuff. I think @Nickfromwales uses just that rather than cement board and "hasn't lost a patient yet". I used moisture resistant pb for some of the bathroom then 12.5mm Knauf Aquapanel in the wet room corner so where its abutting the mrpb it's the same level. The wet room corner. All this got tanked after: (Floor was tanked along with the walls before the tiles went down). You can see the mrpb on the right then where it changes to Aquapanel above the window: Cutting the cement boards...can be tricky. They're heavy and have sharp/hairy edges. I used an old circular saw. Also carbide grit edged jigsaw blades. Starrett cutters for drilling holes for pipes etc. https://www.toolstation.com/tungsten-carbide-grit-jigsaw-blades/p67688? The cement boards aren't as bendy/forgiving as mrpb. Easy to get a hairline crack in them (no big deal I don't think as they've a reinforcing fibre mesh throughout). You need special screws for them too.

Ta. CAD concurs at 394.3mm on 2 sides. I get 9.49deg on those sides & 13.3deg on the 550mm side. Making some supports to go inside the mould:

I veed the Celotex where the pipes run in my walls. Then foamed and fitted the top section of the V back in. Foil taped over the top.

9mm on the roof might even sag over time and you'll end up with washing up bowl like depressions where the water will sit.

Any vcl in the wall makeup? 9mm on the roof will be crap to walk on even for maintenance. I've 12mm on one of my flat roofs (I didn't do it) and that's a bit springy even at 400mm centres.

You can't make an omelette without breaking eggs. Worst case inside, your re plastering looks a bodge. You could plasterboard the reveal instead or even line it with timber. Worst case if you remove stuff from outside, it leaks.

You usually want a shoe on the bottom of the down pipe to direct it away from/off the pad and down the slope. In this case you might need a 112 or 92.5deg bend then a short length of pipe to do the same. Pretty sure you could knock something up from an old bit of ordinary gutter set at an angle so the down pipe just sits on that. Any old bits of lead, another possibility?

Menopause?

Got a bit of my stuff from British Bathrooms as they were the cheapest for what I wanted: https://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/ One time I had to chase a delivery but it all came through in the end.

Wonderful stuff it is!  I dip wire ends in it before I put crimps on, I dip crimps in it before I push them together, I even dip stripped wire ends in it before I put bootlace ferrules on. I smear inside limit switches over the screw terminals. I dip coax in it before I screw F plugs on etc. Stuff lasts indefinitely outside/in harsh environments on the car etc. But I've run out... Need some at home over the weekend. Would plumbers grease do the same job?

Cheap too! Look at the stupid prices here: https://ukcaststoneonline.co.uk/product/flat-pier-cap-550mm-x-550mm/