Onoff

Typo, guessing he meant "gloss". Foam rollers for gloss.

Just been and bought plastering sand, black mortar tone, and the integral waterproofer I favour that incorporates a deaerator. Couldn't get any cement white or OPC for love nor money. In line with the mortar shortage I've been reading about maybe.

Try soaking a tile in hot water and a little washing powder. Give it a scrub to work it in then leave. Might lift the dirt. Rinse well. You could probably stick them in the dishwasher...if you have one. I turned down a freebie, working one the other day...

@PeterW Morning, just mulling my pillar caps and what to get to fill my mould up before a trip to Selco for materials. You I think were trying to match Yorkstone. Was that the reason for the white cement and lime? The washed plasterer's sand as the aggregate, I presume that was to achieve a fine surface finish and sharp edge detailing? I'm looking at doing black pillar caps using dye. The thought is that it's in keeping with the black gates and the whole Gothic esque final look we want. In that case is is necessary to use white cement or lime? Was the lime there for colouring? I was thus thinking 4 of washed plastering sand, 1 of OPC and the 1/2 lime if necessary if it does anything for the mix other than colour. Thanks

Boiler hasn't missed a beat since changing the bearings. However it now has an annoying, underlying buzz/vibration though it rises and falls. I should have probably just done the cleaning in where the photo cell sits and tried it! ? Original bearings were SKF, new ones are unbranded. I'll take it apart again just to see if I've done anything wrong. I'll change the bearings to a better make. Have ordered a new (plastic) pump coupling, part number 3000443 that sits between the pump and motor. That's a bit worn.

Bearings changed. New ones just slid on tbh. Cheap crap I guess. Squished the shaft ends in the toothed vice jaws a tad to rough 'em up a bit then used some medium strength Loctite too. A bit mucky with dirt / dust whatever in here. I wonder if that was blowing about a bit and obscuring the photocell occasionally? Reassembling now.

I glued the mating faces of the pyramid with Gorilla Glue. Not a perfect fit at the apex as in a mm or two out but good enough I think. Going to carefully have to multitool the glue off... I'm debating next sticking sections of DPM in. Then, at the joins running a bead of silicone and taking it off with the Fugi Cramer tool to get radiused edges. It's a bloody long time since SWMBO's let me do anything on the lounge floor that involved putting plastic sheeting down...

Somebody loves me! ?

https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2021/05/21/brickwork-contractors-facing-mortar-rationing/

Here's a random one: If you're suffering from really bad trapped wind and weigh yourself, are you lighter than after you "release it"?

@MikeSharp01, what scrap did you weigh in?

Didn't know that one, thanks, Riverhead Tesco's? I'll swing by and have a look. Do you have to set up an account so it's all traceable? Last time I weighed scrap in was 30 years ago when I lived/worked in Dartford. There's is / was a scrappy just up from TLC at Pembury I've kept meaning to call in at for years now. Edit: Just googled that scrappy, must have driven past hundreds of times! ?

Does the price vary as to whether it's "clean" or not? I've heard the term "bright". I've a quantity of copper pipe, some bits are gloss painted. Also various bits of lead flashing some with paint, silicone remnants on.

Bring Me To Life? Great tune.

Over length and do a "MUP" cut on site as our SOUTHERN engineers used to call it. Make up cut. Simples. They'd write on a survey drawing what holes they wanted one end and write "MUP" next to the blank end. Now the Wigan lads would write "FFC" referred to as a "funnnyfutcut". Intrigued I asked... "Well, it's a funny f***er to cut".

It'll be fine. A good heavy snowfall one year will test your brackets! ? I'd not fix to the t&g roofing but the long edge bits as aforementioned.

The plan has merit... A little fettling required. It'll be accurate enough for a pier cap!

Lucky buggers! 45x95 here... Constructional untreated regularised £2.96/m, Constructional planed regularised, treated - £3.13/m. Premium planed...£7.78/m Pi$$ take.

As @TonyT suggested: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-machine-thread-to-wood-thread-dowel-screws-m8-x-x-75mm-10-pack/7618H? You could use screws and keyhole slot the bracket for instance...coach screws too, an option. Can't be ar$ed sketching it and it'd be too much for you to contemplate...so won't!

More reading: https://professional-electrician.com/technical/selecting-and-installing-earth-electrodes/

Boil in water and vinegar or water and bicarb. The heat softens the paint and the bubbly action loosens / shifts it...maybe.

If that 285 Ohm reading is recent it might be way high in Summer once (if ?) the ground dries out. 500mm of soil isn't much. Try the bfo flattened HW cylinder if you can get one...and flatten it...loads of area on that.

I was just pointing out ref the scaffold pole, don't do that. If you're going to dig the flower bed up then lay a proper earth tape.

One option is bentonite but that can shrink. You can buy moisture retentive clay to go over the top. Marconite is electrically conductive gravel. Some you just mix with cement. Then there's even more exotic conductive cement that in effect increases the rod diameter thus surface area. A bit ott for domestic. Not a bad shout if ever you have piles done to do an extra one for a deep rod. Saying that a mate's concession to earthing at his workshop is the earth conductor affixed by a pair of old mole grips on a scaffold tube banged into the ground! ?

Make sure your rod connections are clean and accessible. Tighten up and give a coat of something if fussy. Grease, Vaseline etc. A bit like when keeping car battery terminals in good nick. You can get earth inspection pits. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLPT205.html? https://www.toolstation.com/earth-pit-plastic/p15291?