Onoff

@nod!!!!!

Different A-Team altogether...

Whatever you do you want to fix the valve really well imo. Bit of a double edged sword but if an old 'un slips they might fall against whatever is sticking out the wall. Conversely "it" might serve as something for them to grab onto if they fall. You might also think about building in some strong points like well fixed studs, to attach grab rails to. Even a fold down shower seat.

The dimensions of mine: Tbh it's decision time. Either go surface mount thermostatic bar mixer or bring the wall out a bit with battens. You don't have to have the shower controls in the shower. You can have them to one side like mine. Dead handy as you can turn on and set with just your hand underneath rather than stepping in and having to get wet. I'd be real careful channelling into the 9" party wall. Last thing you want is complaints if you get any vibrations from the valve through the wall when it's running...

One of our lad's pointed an angle grinder the wrong way on site years ago and showered a window with sparks. We got the marks out with progressively finer grades of cerium oxide. Think this is aka jeweller's rouge. Bloody hard work but we got away with it.

Are you wanting the one adapter that will go from a Makita battery to either a DeWalt OR Milwaukee tool?

My unfinished (that's an in joke here ?) attempt at a garden room section. As this is an infilled stud wall I'd plan to put a continuous insulation layer inside to mitigate cold bridging. Similar detail at the ceiling and floor detail One big thing is you want your cladding to stop 150mm above the "ground". Then pay attention to whatever's below that to protect it. Missing from my drawing is "cladding" over the sole plate and thermoblock. I'd likely use aluminium. Some have used black uPVC cladding which looks great. The age old premise is that an average raindrop hits the ground and bounces up about 6". I'd maybe look to move the OSB to the inside of the studs, better for screwing things on walls. I started to cost this up...but haven't finished...

Yeah, like a constant reminder.....

This might help? https://www.se.com/uk/en/faqs/FA221505/

Bony knee job was it? ?

Isn't that sort of thing all online now? ?

Oh impulsive me! I just hit it with some black Rustoleum that needed to be used up: It's rustic...

I just get the magazine from the Shell garage that also has a Little Waitrose.

With the threat of rain I rushed tidying the post up...and it shows. Originally there was something "red" on the bare steel post. I want to say red oxide but I don't think it was. I gave it a coat of something grey since then. So a quick sand with 80 grit and wipe with white spirit: Then Pro Cote Cold Galv Spray from T'station. It's reacted but not sure whether with the red or grey... Half wondering whether to let this dry then take it all off with a cup brush back to bare metal and etch prime?(No I don't shop in Waitrose btw).

Have a look here:

Then sorry but they haven't got a clue and sound like cowboys. All they're interested in is dumping a building on a frame/base and walking away. You say you're building to a very high standard. That means then properly insulated (walls, floor and roof), draught proof with a vapour barrier and with consideration given to cold bridging. Then you need to think about heating AND ventilation. Anything else is a poor imitation of a dry, warm workspace where your tools won't rot/rust. Do it right and it'll be a pleasure to work in with little in the way of ongoing maintenance and low heating bills. An exposed ply floor edge is wrong on so many levels.

Thanks. I'm picking this up later locally though, mainly as it says it's "buff" coloured. (The Everbuild stuff is pretty good imo as Sika bought them): https://www.toolstation.com/silicone-825/p93228?

I've been looking for a cement coloured silicone, got any links? Cheers.

Got any pictures of the base so far? The "wet" shouldn't be getting anywhere near the ply floor edge if you've got a good wall detail. Worst thing you can do it make it up as you go along. Post some pictures and people here will chip in with good ideas.

Yep, haven't managed to kill it yet and I really give it some. Looking a bit worn round the edges but it keeps going. I once bought a Parkside copy that fell apart on its first outing The only other DeWalt thing that I like is the bfo 1/2" router here.

Thanks. It's just the longevity of the chosen mix concerns me. Next then to rub down the steel post, paint, fill the gaps where it comes through the brickwork, etc.

Fun drilling for the coax conduit: Thanks to @JFDIY for the stainless dome nuts. On loose for now after cutting the studs down: Aerial mounting plate on loose. I'll change the bolts for stainless button heads later:

2 done:

What about some cold lay macadam? Cheapest I reckon might be some chicken wire then a thin layer of stamped concrete?

Roller wave is a real thing. I've come across it on commercial curtain walling. Like ripples in the glass. Not sure what causes it (vibration, draughts in the glass factory?) So bad sometimes that when it's installed and being cleaned, the squeegee rubber only touches the peaks on the glass and misses the troughs!