Onoff

No doubt his pedestrian gate will be wanted the other end! ?

Get a bag of trouser shims and CT1 them on the ends of the short noggins. You can make up whatever thickness: https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-200-pcs/80408

Erm...cats climb! ? An electric fence is about the only thing that'll stop them. Maybe have the pedestrian gate "normal" and the main gain bottom following the slope and on rising hinges?

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Most impressed that there's a Scything Association. Even more so there's a chairman. https://www.digitalspy.com/tv/a858489/poldark-aidan-turner-shirtless-scene-scything-association/

Been looking at those. Might have the offer of one over in Essex. Means a road trip, passport, border control, import duties etc. Not sure if an Essex scythe will work in Kent... ?

That's a good shout actually. Get em in and it gives you a basis to go from. Something to stare at and plan. Some bfo ones like 200mm square I would. Defines your entrance boundary too. Might have a psychological effect on your neighbours... You been through the hole digging process before with your riverbank adventures so shouldn't be a drama.

Any internet, bargain hunting sleuths on here find me a two handled, "Poldark" style sythe for around the £50 mark...delivered? I've looked Cheers

Does this help? Google "uphill gardeners":

Make a scale model to get your head around it all.

Even the geotextile? What's the answer then on clay....line the whole trench first?

Does a wrap of permeable geotextile around the pipe or say under the top layer of aggregate help prevent blockage?

No, this is the new bathroom thread!

I have.

You can use a garden hose(s) and just attach some clear sections each end with jubilee clips etc. Just make sure the air's all out.

Been called worse. Btw your spelling is appalling.

Yes I know, little things etc! Thanks to @JFDIY for the dome nuts and a member on another forum for the laser cutting!

Try rubbing with a ball of scrunched up tin foil.

Couple of hosepipes to make a water level. Pretty foolproof imho.

As an Irish citizen it's a Celtic cross and therefore part of my religious heritage!

Fresh off the laser cutter!

We get the proper large, (edible) Roman snails here from nearby Lullingstone Roman villa.

Cold bridging surely? Or is it that it's minimal?

I'd do "normal" concrete for strength personally or as I say 2" "council" paving slabs. But add others have said above the 50mm you say for screed/concrete is a bit thin imo. Less mess, easy 'ish to lay (mind fingers). Depends how flat your slab is underneath. You can always bed on some sand. I wonder if you could even do away with the screed/concrete... Put down 50mm of pir or eps then 22mm t&g moisture resistant chipboard flooring over that.....keep your feet a bit warmer! That extra flashing sketch to the right of 3 is good if you can do something like that. You see so many metal sheds just sat on an often oversize slab and water pees in at the edges. Devil's in the detail!

Option 1 = bad. Water / damp will drive in (red arrow) and rot your metal shed. Option 2, not bad as the shed is sat on the DPM but a bit of a risk of water sitting between DPM and shed edge. With hindsight you could have cast a taper on the slab edge where the shed sits. Option 3, fold and stick the DPM down the side of the slab. Saves it turning up and trapping water. Great if you can then flash from under the shed and down over the DPM. 4 ideally you want the "ground" 150mm below where the metal is. If less then a stone filled trench at least with drainage if necessary.