Onoff

Not sure where I'm going but I've started getting ready. Got a jumbo bag of ballast and 8 bags of dust. Mixer needs some work...

Worst case they'll f**k up and spin in the hole. Then, drill out to 14mm, clean the hole...and use resin! ? Edit: If you can get the spinning anchors out of course.

The FFX ones say fixing thickness 6 - 25mm. The RS data sheet says 10mm for them. On that basis go with the FFX ones. (Resin is so much easier! Sure you'll waste a bit and go thru a few mixing nozzles until you get the hang. If you were nearer and I didn't have the dreaded Covid lurgi you could have borrowed my gun, brush, puffer etc).

Probably don't want to pay for Gr80 stainless fixings so they're akin to 8.8 for tensile strength! Shareholders etc.

Talking ball park then to achieve similar tensile strength to a mild steel 8.8 you want to aim for A2-80 or A4-80 if using stainless. The 80 bring a higher strength that 70. A2 and A4 refers to the corrosion resistance properties. A4 basically the best, for marine and harsh chemical environments. Those fasteners I linked are 316 which is aka A4 so top flight corrosion resistance. They'll be good.

I'm sad that I look at railway stations and car park barriers, handrails etc. A nice stainless feature fixed with mild steel studs, leaching rust everywhere!

Fyi these are all galvanised fixings a few years old. The one on the left stamped 4.6 a lower tensile grade that the 8.8 on the right. Treat any unstamped bolt as the lowest grade unless proven otherwise. You can see some have a little rust on them. Periodic spannering may damage the galv coating on the head. Similarly you can see rust where a couple passed through other steel plates and moisture would have lodged. These are bright zinc plated bolts, much shinier, not as good as galv: You can also get a "yellow zinc" finish. Slightly better than bright zinc plated...but still w@nk for this! ?

Does one stringer sit flat against the wall or is is spaced off in any way?

It's deliberate so he can listen for escapees.

I think they're w@nk. For the few quid it'll cost I'd go stainless. https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/products/m12x7075-sleeve-anchor-stst Then what do I know having worked on all forms of holding down units for man riding equipment, staircases and ladders etc for 40 years? ?

Are the fixings they supplied with the stairs stainless steel? On the head of the bolt it'll be be stamped say "A2-70", best is "A4-80". If mild steel then I would hope they'll be stamped "8.8". Similarly I'd expect galvanised fixings rather than bright zinc plated for this.

If your fixings are stainless they'll likely say "A2" on them or the packet. You can tell if they're stainless pretty well by putting a magnet on them. If it sticks they're not stainless. Is it painted to a particular RAL number? Best start is to get some polyester powder coat touch up pens or better a pot of touch up paint from whoever did the PPC. The use the same paint powder in a solvent so it matches exactly. You can get it from 3rd parties online but they expect you to have some powder. Some of course will sell you the powder. The touch up paint pots have a little brush in like for solvent weld. If you just want to get on and do it then drill your hole, small brush, zinc rich primer and let it dry for a bit. If you go brush then any anti corrosion primer ideally with a zinc base. I see TS do a Rustin's one. At work we'd use Galvafroid generally on steelwork or Zinga sometimes. I say brush rather than a spray but I use the Pro-Cote Cold Galv Spray from Toolstation a lot for my various mad projects and garden repairs (at work too tbh). If you feel you can spray in the holes accurate enough without overspray (or mask up). I'd still probably spray. For this I might even splash out in some Zinc 182 spray (Halfords do it). It's good stuff. Let it dry in the hole. The Pro-Cote stuff dries real quick btw. Slap some grease in there, nut it up with a smear of anti seize on the threads. Go round later and wipe any excess off if it annoys you. For ongoing protection around the fixings a squirt of ACF-50. Periodically check the torque too.

With the top lip I was getting at there don't appear to be any pre drilled holes for fixing to the lip. If you drill anything powder coated you'll break the skin and water will get underneath. I've seen it so many times, PPC just lifting in sheets and rusty steel underneath. If you do have to drill extra holes @pocster then you need to clean the steel where you've drilled and touch up the coating. They may have given you a touch up pot? Tbh I'd pack round the hole with grease and just wipe off when nutted up. For all other fixings I'd be smearing the threads with aluminium based anti seize paste and dropping the torque settings a tad.

Doesn't the above "hook" over the concrete lip at the top? Are there any holes so you can fix in place? The stringer tops then connect to those slots don't they? What's the finish? If powder coat over plain steel without the steel being zinc flame sprayed or galvanised then that's not the best finish for longevity.

Yep, stainless steel everything or over time they'll all rust and blow the concrete aside from leaching rust down the staircase. He has been warned.

I take it back. The A to B piece isn't too short! On another forum someone suggested an X brace in the form of A to the bottom of D and then B to the bottom of C might be better. Some fun working those angles/cuts out!

I've already cut piece A to B...too short!

Wash your mouth out Sir! Another unfinished project is about to commence!

I've been and grabbed one of the late FiLs wheelbarrows. Best out of 4. Not saying the metal is thin but if we're talking biscuit tin then they might as well have used the plastic tray that holds the biccies! First thing I did was ditch the tiddly front wheel and put on a solid, never flat type. Puts the front up and back down like a Capri with sagging leafs but works for me. However, fully loaded with soil and the whole bloody thing is live and flexes like mad. It needs bracing. I'm thinking between A and B for a start. I've some donated 70x25x2 box that should drop in there nicely. Was saving that for a router table but I think I've another couple of lengths of it. Then between C&D, E&F. I can use some of the tonne of 25x25 I've got. The barrow frame is 25mm dia so if I Starrett the box it should fit nice and snug. Sound like a plan? Fire up the MIG...tomorrow maybe!

Barst...

That's it, take advantage of me when I'm at my lowest! You really know how to hurt a man!

Do so but don't trust the architect. The liability will come back on you even if they advise badly.

Self isolating after a positive test I sent off my PCR test in the post this morning. Hoping I'm over the worst of the cold like symptoms. So bored and banished to the garden during the day (I also have shed, garage and stable options). Decided to clear out the (previously clear) dug out bit next to the shed: Seriously considering a slab, dwarf walls in brick or block the pallet walls. Someone pull me up on this, current shed is 10' wide, 8' deep. If I go with what I've got then the add on shed will be only 4' wide by 8 deep. Worth bothering? Determined to keep moving and not let this bloody virus take hold. Hopefully being double jabbed it stays as a mild dose! Best I think I've felt today, just down to tired and achy now. Voice a tad hoarse still.

No, it was Doon, Ben Doon...