Onoff

Or like in the case of the can of Everbuild foam I had from TS (once) it was so bloody long and heavy it snapped off the gun.

I decided rather than buy the proper, corrugated foam strips to seal the ends of bitumen sheets on a garage, I'd use gun foam. Worked OK. Neighbour saw me doing it and decided to "insulate" the door on the side of his caravan that housed the battery. Cue him buying a new door! Foam blew it apart.

It's up there with your other unknowns like "trousers".

This, specifically low expansion, Soudal stuff is great imho. Sticky too. I've used it to stick say EPS sheet to brick with just a couple of bricks to hold the EPS in place whilst it sets. Spraying the substrates / gap with water from a plant sprayer helps with any foam I think. https://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-soudafoam-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/5026D?

I like Fischer FIS V 360 S.

No, that was the first installment of the fine.

Stainless steel "effect"...nice! ? Tight arse.

You might think about putting in (ball lever) isolation valves on circuits you're later going to hack into. Saves draining down the whole lot.

From real timber to veneered wood and £36 down to £7. All mouth and no trousers...nothing new there! How does veneered MDF do underwater then?

Come on then, show.

Plenty of bits of walnut in various forms around Bristol: https://www.gumtree.com/search?search_category=all&q=Walnut&search_location=Bristol

Have you not thought about getting a stud detector? ? Lucky you took all those photos and wrote measurements on the wall before boarding ?

It's 1.732 X 16 X 400 X 0.001 isn't it? Equals 11 as you say.

According to the Urban Dictionary: 1. adj; something in bad taste or is otherwise unappealing. You need to get wiv da yoof!

Champagne budget / Babysham taste! ? Robbins do veneered sheet: https://www.robbins.co.uk/products-prices/sheet-material/

Didn't think you would be up for that with it not being reassuringly expensive.

How about this place? https://www.robbins.co.uk/products-prices/hardwood/ Available in 300mm wide. Guess you would need to biscuit joint it to make a bigger board. They'll likely know somebody able to pander to your whims.

I'm just here to part a fool with his money!

Just make a simple jig up (to suit your particular router) that you clamp to your timber and route out with a 3mm bit: Practice run first on scrap.

Given that budget then: https://www.doorhandlecompany.co.uk/hafele-oval-folding-coat-hook-brushed-matt-stainless-steel-f-15927/?

Packet of 3: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/klyket-folding-hook-aluminium-beige-50503598/ Also IKEA Bjärnum. Check out "Umbra" hooks too.

Pallet or possibly Fablon.

I'll dunk this Tower 3 port in a bucket of citric acid to de-rust the bolts. I'll strip it apart when done. A few thoughts if you DIY it: I fitted like for like originally, replacing Tower valves with the same. I dicked around replacing micro switches and other components here and there. I used PTFE tape as was on them when I took them off. All the valves leaked over time. I replaced the x2 2 ports and x1 3 port with Honeywell. This time, no PTFE tape just Jet Blue Plus thread sealing compound. Getting the old olives off; a multi tool with bi-metal blade (like hacksaw teeth) is good. The nuts on the Tower valve aren't the same thread as on the Honeywell. I was going to see if I could get away with reusing the Tower nuts/olives on the Honeywell valve...I couldn't even though both valves are for 28mm pipe.

Might assist: https://www.freeheatingadvice.com/articles/honeywell-motorised-valve-faults/