Onoff

Philistine!

Mine was under a tenner. https://www.toolstation.com/adjustable-hole-cutter/p44999?

Wear a face shield rather than goggles too and decent gloves. Very easy I would imagine to come unstuck with this thing.

Cheap screwdrivers where the tips round off. Cheap drills that snap. Allen keys that are so badly formed the hexagon has unequal sides. Think Pounshop tat.

This double bladed, adjustable hole saw. Silverline I think it was. It's lethal enough as it is in use in plasterboard, what's it probably designed for. It's horrible to use. The pilot drill in the centre just wanders as the plasterboard is so soft. You have to first screw something solid to the board. The instructions don't say that! Your average DIY'er would either consign it to the bin or hurt themselves! Tbf though, with some faffing it did the job

Use with an adapter lead? https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4348908-16a-2p-e-230v-angled-panel-socket-ip67

And they say I complicate stuff! ? 3D print a plastic back box with no stub and a 20mm rear entry hole!

What I said, 3rd post. Drill a round hole with a diamond grit tipped hole saw:

I might have some, will get back to you.

It's a water valve I got asked to help change. Sits about 2m up in the air in a plant room and is bloody heavy. Done a couple now. All I have is rig a lifting tripod, chain block and sling it safely then test and certify the rig and lift the valve out. Only really complicated by the legs having to be 3 different heights.

Round Lewden sockets maybe? You could core drill the brick to go around it? Take into account mortar bed above and below the brick to gain height?

Is this for external use or an internal brick feature?

Should that be a piece of actual re-bar?

I used Polypipe trays rather than a slip membrane. Makes for a lighter, castellated, slab. Think the tray inside the biscuit tin at Christmas! It doesn't "ring" quite as dense as a solid, full depth slab does but it's strengthened by A142 mesh Thank God I put the mesh in as I forgot to add the fibres in when I mixed the concrete. I used wet concrete btw, not screed. Tamped level using screed rails attached to the stud walls.

Cool isn't it? Gutted I missed out on another one just like it. Incredibly heavy. Plan is a rocket stove type thing. It's paying for chunky, plasma cut plates that's stopping me! SWMBO hates the thought of it gracing our patio. Tbh it'll show our patio up!

Don't eff about with anything other than a proper foam gun and have a practice beforehand. This stuff is good but not in stock at SF unfortunately for some reason: https://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-soudafoam-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/5026d Be very careful using "foam". Aside from the mess, if you were to foam the gaps and leave the window open whilst it sets (and is still expanding), it can warp the frame and you won't be able to shut the windows. That's why I like the low expansion stuff. Another useful tip is lightly spray the gap with water from a plant sprayer. A damp surface takes the foam better. Low tack masking tape around the frame to minimise foam getting on it.

Have a look here at what may be the reality of any DG window install. I found a horror story. No Compriband or expanding foam used, oversize gaps, all covered up with trim, superglued on. Basically draughty, cold bridges. Your 5mm gap is a lot and you'll lose a lot of heat.

I did later...

I've got this to make a stove:

Loose? Could you get in round the edge with some low expansion foam to fill the gap? If you do foam keep the windows closed until it's gone off. You might need to remove the glazing unit to drill and fix. To do that you have to remove the beads. You can get a special tool but a sharp chisel will do it: You can see a glazing bead removed here. Also the red packer between unit and frame. If you do remove the beads make note of where the packers are, photo etc, and which bead comes from where (pencil mark on bead and frame). When putting the beads back in put the short ones in first then the long ones as they'll bend more. Once the unit is out you'll be able to drill through the frame into the wall and fit frame fixings. Not got a pic but you can see s fixing hole on the hinge side of this door. You basically drill an 8/10mm hole and bang in an 8/10mm frame fixing.

Whoops! Looking back and I did thin over thick. It was a bit springy. Thick over thin would have been better. There's also 25mm EPS under the 100mm.

Thick over thin I did...I think. Butt tight. Overlap the joints. Foil tape the joints.

They are surprisingly good. I've got some aftermarket blades too. I've even been cutting M16 stainless steel studding with it. Someone has even converted theirs to a traditional band saw with the addition of a cutting bed.

Is that what's rebranded as Erbauer?

2 bits of rectangular timber cut to size and slid up inside, chop saw with a fine blade is one way. Tbh my Sheppach bandsaw would do that with ease.