Triassic

I've got a high volume kitchen family room in the new build (177m3). Has anyone come across any guidance on how to deal with such high volume spaces when designing a MVHR system?

The cost is bang on topic. I've got three MVHR quotes and all of them inflate some element of the quote. The quotes are kept obscure and you only get a design with an order, hence my desire to DIY the design and save money.

Just a thought, from what I’ve read the flexible ducting comes in two sizes 75mm and 125mm. I assume as I’ve got a large footprint house 310m2 I’ll need to use the larger stuff?

@JSHarris I recall that there are some rules on extraction rates, where can I find these? Are there any other technical details I need to address?

I've just had a couple of quotes back for a MVHR system for the new house. Looking at the quotes and prices online I'm finding them all to rather inflated, for example, the MVHR unit in one case is £1,100 more than I can buy it online. In the second quote, the ducting is the inflated element, by about £830. In both cases, they want around £300 up front to design the ducting layout. So the question is, how difficult is it to design the ducting layout and do a DIY install?

Our wall Chanel leaks if you point the shower head in a particular direction. The wall U channel should be silicones on the outside of the shower.

How are you going to get rid of the WD40 residue as that’ll stop the silicone sticking when you redo it.

Most definatly nope!

Is there a partially close service valve under the sink?

Thanks for the recommendation, it saved me £82, money I can spend elsewhere!

The widest spacing is 500mm and the narrowest 270mm

I got a quote off http://mgbpress.co.uk/services/underfloor-heating-plates/they were the cheapest I could find. The U-fix plates (fit pipe from below) come in two specifications: Single groove (165 x 1000 x 0.7mm, for 15 or 16mm pipe) - £2.55 per plate Two groove (310 x 1000 x 0.7mm, 200mm c/c, 15 or 16mm pipe) - £4.20 per plate The "J" plates are all 1000mm long and 0.7mm thick, but can be made at pretty much any width you could require. As a guide, a 150 x 1000 x 0.7mm "J" plate would be £1.65 per unit. Prices exclude carriage and VAT.

As I've also got to insulate the floor void, so I was wondering if I could simply use this grooved, between the joists, 50mm thick EPS insulation, from Pro-warm. At around £9.50 per board, it would save me spending £4.50 each on spreader plates?

I'm about to order the UFH parts to go under a suspended timber first floor in my new build (bedrooms below and kitchen/family room above). Having priced up the aluminium spreader plates they come in a pricy £803 !!! Do really need spreader plates, or could I simply clip the pipe to the underside of the chipboard floor using plastic clips? The house is highly insulated and I have a feeling this element of the UFH might never be used, so would hate to "waste" money on spreader plates ! All thought welcome......

Mine is below the concrete. if your DPM were above the concrete, the uFH would be heating a large damp lump of concrete.

Hi @Adam2 I went for Protech SAGM. I decided against a warrented system, mainly because I was having trouble finding one at a reasonable price. If I have a problem I’ll just have to excavate down and fix it !

We installed 1.25km of 100mm plastic sewage pumping main and it came in 250m lengths. As we didn’t have a decoiler we hoisted each coil up between two trees with a rope through the centre of the coil. We then used an expanding nose cone with swivel and attached it and the pipe to a dumper and slowly pulled the pipe out alonside the trench. Once the pipe was positioned in the trench, the joints were electro fusion welded using a hired machine and a generator. All trenched dug by machine, pipe laid and backfilled by a team of 6 Scout leaders in a weekend.

We poured 26 tonnes of concrete in one go, to the full height of the ICF shown (2.6m) The most important thing is the prop the ICF as per the manufacturers instructions, then add more props, for good measure. We also chose an ICF system with a good internal matrix of cross ties, this helps stop the two sections splitting during the pour, we also used s small concrete poker and resisted the urge to over poke the concrete.

i bought and fitted a Horman sectional garage door from https://central-garage-doors.co.uk/contact-us.php it came packages in three sections and with the motor and control,gear.

I constructed our using ICF, defiantly a DIY job if your willing to get stuck in! Here it is with the insulated slab ready for the concrete. A view part for the completed basement with interior walls.

Unfortunately there’s no Wickes near us! We only have B&Q and they are completely hopeless. Any other suggestions for discout 15mm plasterboard ???

So yesterday I rang round about five plasterboard suppliers. I need 580 (8x4) boards, so the first calls were to a large national distributor, i then called Jewsons, Buildbase, C W Berry and finally my local family owned BM. Guess what, the local BM was cheapest, their 12.5mm is £4.87 a sheet and the 15mm £6.10 a sheet. Maybe if I should see if I can get the smaller format boards for the same price as they’ll be easier to handle.

Oh and another question, do I use square or tapered edged plasterboard ?

I was wondering, in a highly insulated new build with cathedral ceilings, would you recommend I use foil backed plasterboard for the cathedral ceiling sections?

If it's an open cavity, without any insulation, is cold bridging even an issue? ps. If I were building a new garage I'd insulate the hell out of it. My 1970s garage if freezing in winter and not a nice place to work when it's cold.