Triassic

To which element did you fasten it, the wall as shown above, or did you fasten it to the render board, if so now?

I have a single story roof section that abuts a gable wall. The roof with by covered with slates and the gable wall covered with render board and K Render. The question is, what sort of detailing is required at the junction of the wall and the slates to ensure rainwater running down the rendered boards is channelled away down the slate roof?

Thanks for the offer, however the windows measurement fine, it’s how to cover the corner post and the horizontal timber in a manner that looks good i worrying about.

Here’s an example of a corner window that’s causing me sleepless night. I’ve neasured up the size of the holes for the windows, simple! Next question, how do I cover the horizontal and vertical timber elements? Does each window need a chill or is their a preparatory cover peice to link the windows? The window company don’t appear to have covered this detail on their quote! Suggestions and photos of how you did it welcome.

I agree with that, however ours isn’t a simple square box, we have windows that link through three floors and corner windows, I’m paying a lot of money, yet it’s all down to me to measure them up, not a problem measuring a hole in a TF, but how do you cover the timber element between windows when they’re part of a set of six windows forming part of a through floor, corner window glazed element.

The problem I’ve had with many of the wondow companies, Rationel included, is they won’t come out and do a site measure, that’s left to you. How many self builders are window experts? In a build like mine with corner windows and windows that link between floors, I’ve no idea how they link, what cover pieces I need or how cills work in our situation and often their brochures lack such details.

I asked for 4kw, I pointed out that a couple of panels in each string will be partially shaded. I have plenty of roof area available, but lower down the roof so potentially partially shaded.

I'm installing 4kw of solar PV. As we're in a National Park and the planner asked for an in roof installation. This is what I asked of the supplier - "I'm looking to install a 4Kw solar PV system. As we are in a National Park, so all black panels and an in-roof mounting kit has been specified. The panels will be split 50:50 over a south and a west facing roof. There is some slight leaf shading from some adjacent trees." This is what they suggest - We could supply the following IN-ROOF 3kWp Solar PV Kit systems; Solar PV Kit Options 14 x Canadian Solar Mono 280W (All Black) solar panels 1 x Solis 4.0kW Dual tracker inverter 1 x GSE Integration in-roof mounting kit (2 rows of 3 in portrait and 2 rows of 4 in portrait) 1 x All cables, clips, generation meter, AC/DC isolators Is this the right kit for the job, will the inverter handle the shading. Any other comments?

From what I’ve read the plastic flexible duct is 83mm in diameter. Holes to be drilled mainly through 50mm Studs.

Gas hobs could be banned from being installed in new homes within seven years over fears that they are harming the environment. Under new plans unveiled on Thursday by climate watchdogs no new homes will be connected to the gas grid after 2025 at the latest, in order for the UK to meet its legally binding climate targets. The proposals, from Government’s official climate advisers, would call time on new gas radiators, boilers and cooking hobs.

Whilst on the subject of drilling holes in wood. The MVHR duct pipe needs installing next, what sort of drill you all use to drill through the studs etc?

Have a read of ths Health and Sefety Executive guidance document of dealing with concrete asbestos sheets. http://www.hse.gov.uk/pUbns/guidance/a14.pdf The biggest cost is in disposal.

Is probably been sharpened too many time, hence won’t hold an edge.

I’ve just started first fix plumbing, by drilling holes in the timber frame for the pipes, using my old but trusty spade bit. Three holes later and it’s blunt! I’m thinking I need something better, but what? Can anyone recommend a make of good quality wood drill bits?

Don’t do anything in haste, sit back and relax. You are not doomed. People here will be along with great advice and positive encouragement. Regarding the £48k, he’s having a laugh! I’ve paid around £20k for all my professional services, Architect, structural engineers, land surveyors, bat experts etc. Some here have done the designs themselves and simply used local architectural technicians to draw up the schemes for planning, saving thousands, maybe next your case 10s of thousands. if I were you I’d go and read a few of the blogs on here. They usually have photos and in depth descriptions that may help clarify what you want, need or desire. Before I did anything my wife and I wrote design brief and a a wish list, along photos of the element we liked. if all else fails come back and discuss your ideas here. Good luck.

Outside membrane is fitted. I’m now looking for inside VCL.

Lots of suggestions for tape, any suggestions for the vapour control membrane? I only ask as I need enough to cover 1000m3 house! Every Pound saved counts!

Thanks for confirming this, my calculations are based on the total floor area. However, given we have cathedral ceilings in every room with a roof above, it’s resulted in us having a rather high volume house and the need for two MVHR units. I only budgeted for one unit based on a floor area figure from the Architect (clearly wrong!), hence to desire to double check everything before spending money on double the amount of kit.

I’ve always assumed it’s down to where the units are manufactured. if it were down to design mine is a Scottish kitchen as that’s where the designer hails from.

I had the same dripping tap problem, my fix was the remove the ceramic disc cartridge and using a peice of glass and some Cif (any fine abrasive cleaner will do). I put a blob on the glass, dropped the ceramic disc into the blob and using a figure of 8 action polished the disc, this removes any lime scale on the disc and ensures it’s flat. Wash the disk and reassemble the tap.

Following a conversation with a MVHR supplier this afternoon about whether to include storage spaces, such as a walk on wardrobe , a cloakroom and hallway, Apparently some suppliers do and some don’t. I was wondering what other have done. Did you include such spaces in the calculations or not?

The last renovation I did I used some left over solid oak floorboards cut to size and planed up. You might be able to buy a few length of someone’s leftovers cheap, off eBay or the like.

I’ve just got a quote from Solarcrest for a twin MVHR system, their price is good, but has anyone eve4 used them? Are they any good for design and supply only.

I also like companies and organisations that make up rules as they go along. A friend had to re-apply for a Blue Badge. Can only be done online and you have to photographer or scan in the documents listed. She did this and was then told that one of the documents was out of date, yet the Government issued document clearly stated it was valid for 2 years. No said the council we only accept the document valid for 1 year. So now she has to contact the relevant Government Department to re-issue the document so that it's within the 1 year validity period. Madness!!.

Don't you find that when dealing with large companies that staff are becoming more like brainless muppets? The Computer say NO!