Ian
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Everything posted by Ian
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@MikeGrahamT21 It sounds like you've done everything properly and there's nothing to worry about. Certainly if you've already got 200mm bearing on each side there's absolutely nothing to be gained by trying to increase it.
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Shower, tray, tiles, and all the rest...
Ian replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Its more important to set it out so that you don't end up with any funny looking thin cuts of tile. Yes, if you want you can start by using the middle of your full height tiled area as the centreline but don't forget to check what that gives you in the way of cuts at the wall ends. If you end up with a funny cut then maybe look at starting in the corner of your shower wall with a full tile and see what that gives you in the way of cuts. Another option would be to choose your shower head as your centreline for the tiling set-out - after all when you're in the shower enclosure everything centres on that. -
I don't think you've got anything to worry about as nothing is going to collapse even if you get a meter of snow. The risk with lightly loaded roofs is usually to do with wind uplift - the timber wallplate for the roof should be strapped down using this type of restraint strap:
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If it's only single storey then the load on your lintel is tiny. What bearing width do you have for the lintel at the moment?
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Shower, tray, tiles, and all the rest...
Ian replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
@Crofter I'd either: (A) take it past by the 3 inches then so that the tiles just cover all your holes, or maybe (B) the potential alternative would be to match the width of painted plaster that's on the left side of your window with the same width of painted plaster on the right side and tile up to that line? Your window would then sit symmetrically in the plastered section of wall.- 118 replies
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Shower, tray, tiles, and all the rest...
Ian replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
That sounds like a good idea. How far across the wall from the glass screen would the tiles need to come in order to fully cover all your holes in the wall? -
Are your lintels supported off a padstone built into the wall or straight off the 2.9n blocks?
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ahh I see. It's not a detail I've seen before and I don't have the necessary expertise to say whether it would give you the extra bearing support that you need. From what you are saying the lintel would partly supported off masonry and partly off your new 6x2 timbers. I'd have thought there would be problem with the two materials moving differently and you could potentially end up with one or the other taking the full weight of the lintel rather than dividing the load between them. Is there any way you could fix a steel bracket to the masonry reveal to give you the extra 2" bearing support?
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What does it say in your structural engineers specification?
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@MikeGrahamT21 So is it this kind of relationship between the frame and lintel where you have an outer leaf of brickwork:
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Are the timbers supporting the steel lintel?
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@MikeGrahamT21 I'd leave a gap to allow the two differing materials to move separately and if you need a filler it should be something flexible rather than sand/cement
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Shower, tray, tiles, and all the rest...
Ian replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Just some quick thoughts: 1) Set -out - the main thing that you are looking to achieve is to avoid any thin sliver cuts of tiles as they will look stupid. 2) Overall - I'd be tempted to either (a) tile the whole of the window wall, or (b) tile the shower on the window wall to a vertical trim line located just past the glass shower screen (level with the edge of your shower tray). I'd then do a separate splashback for the sink so that the two aren't connected. It would make your set out a lot easier with the bonus of using fewer tiles so cheaper. -
We were concerned about this but we used Polyx on our oak veneered doors and they've been fine. No problems at all since we put the Polyx on 9 months ago.
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Do they have any kind of independent certification eg a BBA cert? What is the (in)flammability like?
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Not really as long as you're sensible. It's a good idea to fix a label onto the outside of the bag saying it's possible asbestos. Edit: Link to the CAR regs http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/regulations.htm
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I agree. We did our oak laminated doors with Osmo Polyx using a brush and it was very quick and easy.
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It was a complicated 3 year process including an appeal. I'll DM you. Suffice to say that although I have 30 years experience as an architect I wouldn't have managed to get PP without Berwyn's expertise. His fees were very reasonable too.
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@Dyfed The planning consultants we used are Owen Devenport. Contact: Berwyn Owen http://www.owendevenport.co.uk/index.php
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I recently did a self build not too far from you in North Wales. Ours is in the Clwydian Range AONB and the site was outside the village boundary so wasn't zoned for housing - getting PP was a long winded and complicated business. I can highly recommend a brilliant local Planning Consultant that we used if you get to the stage where you feel you need help getting what you're after. They even have an office in Anglesey.
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Just playing "devils advocate" but why do you feel you need a seal? is it a bathroom floor? (I'm assuming your airtightness barrier is not dependant on a seal at this position and that the joint between skirting and floor is consistent)
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It's definitely not 'blue' asbestos which is the worst kind. It looks much more like asbestos cement which is the least dangerous
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It does indeed look like asbestos cement panels but impossible to say for certain from those photos. There are labs who would analyse it for you and give you a definitive answer. BTW - the rule of thumb for asbestos in buildings in the UK is that new construction dating since the year 2000 is safe (it was finally outlawed in 1999 but some may have been held in stock hence the 2000 date). Anything prior to that date should be treated as suspect.
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@recoveringacademic I'm travelling to Blackpool about once a week with work at the moment to a job that's on site in the town centre - so not too far from you. If you ever feel it would be useful to talk to someone on site about any aspect of your build let me know and I'll pop over. (free btw! - did I say I'm not looking for any self-build work?!)
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Jeremy - back on the old forum I read your whole blog as you were building - I thought you did a brilliant job and the house looks wonderful as well as having outstanding technical performance characteristics. It was a really great write up.
