Tennentslager

Yes. My stove thermometer is on the flue about a metre up...usually sits at 200 for dry wood moderately stacked. 100 for coal ticking over. It's a cast iron cylinder (okay it's got a couple of baffles for the exhaust gas) with a door.

I've seen maybe 20 stoves up at our hutting fraternity. In general...cold weather, poor insulation...folk want maximum output. My observations are that new stoves which equals very expensive; are fantastic to look at ( big glass and slow flickering burn) but don't pump out much heat. No great surprise as most have ceramic or fire brick lining on the inside to aid the fire temperature so less heat radiating through the stove wall. Mine on the other hand was £250 from machine mart and rated at 11kw. Probably because it's just 4 bits of cast iron bolted together. However it is fantastic for keeping the place toasty. Internal temperature is regulated by a combination of fuel type, control of the rudimentary stove vent and choosing which windows to open and how wide.? I'd call it stove art. Putting it in the middle of the floor must help too, instead of heating up the inglenook walls...horses for courses passivers?

No excuses, if your not happy you must articulate this right away...especially with tiling. If confrontation is difficult, blame 'her' as she will never accept this...

Good shout..a few pence dearer but free delivery and a few percent off for orders above 100 squids Without doing the arithmetic (not math @SteamyTea) they will be just a tad cheaper...

Okies, got the thin metal cutting discs through, £5.45 total for 10 of them. Set off today to measure up the plastic that's slotting into my cut out section of the cast iron stack. First off, the pipe above is solid and attached firmly to the exterior wall with a bracket below every collar (or ...some folk refer to it as a spigot) Also the vertical stack looks like it is fashioned in 3' sections. Secondly, measured the circumference of the pipe which confirmed it was 3.5" and not 4". Maybe the 3.5" BS stamp on the pipe inspection hatch was a bit of a giveaway? So set off to find the best fittings. Decided that push fit stuff from polypipe was the best and stopped at B&Q to have a feel/look at the swept tee that's bridging the cut section of the vertical stack. Price 10.24. Drive around... Catalogue price 33 squid McNabs 17.14 plus VAT Plumb world 14.10 plus VAT Plumb base (or something, they are all next to each other) 11.15 plus VAT. Plastics Express...online , 7.85 plus VAT. FFS!

I'll grant you an award for innovation and inspiration...it's the two eyes award... And a gold star for the Captain Pugwash wallpaper, quality boys stuff that is?

Just in case anyone is interested in making their own shed, I thought I'd put the pics all in one place. I was given 34 sheets of 18mm OSB so it's super sturdy and otherwise I spent £500 on timber and another £100 for ironmongery and roof felt. And as ever my time was free... Used mostly old 5" posts dug in and secured with postcrete. There were a few comments that these will rot over time but I'm hoping they will stay fairly dry as they are covered by the shed. OSB down on the shed area. And the decking for the shelter. Made up the wall panels...and Got some help from a couple of local beauties to rattle it together. Roof on so now to make at water tight as possible using up what I've got left lying about the site. Building paper used up and some felt on roof number one. Stared the cladding which matches the Hut. It's getting really Heath Robinson now is I try and cobble the shelter bit together from the odd bit of leftover timber. Nearly there... Looking good, so now to turn attention to the innards Jazzy donated shelving And finally a use for those big hooks I bought two years ago...knew they would be handy for something???

Any recommendations for the type of disc for the angle grinder...cheap diamond about 8 squids up to 44 squids for a marcrist brand...?

Yes, considered that but it means trenching through the nicest bit of the garden and disturbing nice raised planters and taking decking apart. Plus I'm more averse to digging trenches...it's on a hill so not a chance of getting a digger near. RE the floorboards above...there be a fitted kitchen in the way. So down a hole in the below stairs cupboard and bastard crawl it is???

Thanks to all, especially @Triassic and @Nickfromwales. This job may take some planning, reckon I'll have to cut the outside wall to get the new pipe in as its 3m long and won't go in from the hole in the floor. This will give a nice vent for what will be a dusty dirty job. Not starting for a couple of weeks ...unless I get too bored?

It's in use... Not replacing above as the toilet above is fully tiled and the cast continues through the roof! New tee will be secured with these http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Flexseal-Couplings/Drain-Couplings.htm

I'm losing the plot here...Question Time is coming on, so *chilling* soon. Don't rip the piss too much.

Not a lot...under two ft and I've never been described as slight...well, to my face?

Papillon or Shawshank Redemption...

Naw...no room for blade travel. It's only an inch from the corner

Yep but concerned that is a bloody tight space and having the ability to hold the saw rigid as the travel of the blade will have to be held back to stop it hitting the brick...and/or using a whole pack of blades...and running out half way through the second cut...or any slight movement in the stack jamming the blade?

Bump for @Nickfromwales

Welcome to the forum?

Poor pic, but you can just make out the black pipe right in the corner.

It looks great so far...and once the door and window details are finished, it will look ten times better again! The final little details really bring it all together? Off cuts of larch make for tidy stove kindling??

It's right in the corner (vertical stack)and under the floor with very little crawl space so no chance of using a grinder or recip saw. Can hire a chain cutter for 33 quid and watched a couple of YouTube videos, I know, I know... Plan is to add a plastic swept tee for the new WC and use two couplers to make the PVC/cast joint good. @Nickfromwales am I crazy to attempt this? I know the stack has to be well supported above and the big risk is cracking the cast pipe...that's if there's room to get the chain around it while lying on my back! From what I've read it's not a job any plumber will be rushing to do...

Congratulations, time to plan the menu for the house warming party???

A bit more clearly... Ground floor joists, perpendicular. First floor, perpendicular. Ceiling/roof, parallel

Was afraid you would say that...that's a handy job for my multi tool

Head scratching...and I will need to find a suitable professional to confirm but seeking the collective knowledge of the forum first. Been under the floor today and in the loft. Concerned about this single brick wall between kitchen and dining...intend to knock it away for an open plan layout. Floor joists run perpendicular to said wall. Ceiling joists run parallel. Diagram Dwarf wall showing joists on top. The undesired dividing wall is offset 200mm from this. Some pics of the loft. Big purlins but supported every second rafter. The ceiling joists are split and side by side a third of the span and sit above the wall between bathroom and bedroom? Is this not putting a load onto the wall below? What I can't get my head around is that this first floor wall does not have a supporting wall below it? Opinions?