joe90

You really need to talk to them about this and explain your position and any possible way around it. You do say “ But if you don’t ask then you will never know. As you will be living next to them best to not antagonise them. Also make it plain to deliveries and builders the site entrance is tight and they must not drive over the neighbour’s land. If they do and you are not there you have done everything you can and can prove it with documentation.

I would vote for coach screws with washers BUT follow the guidance of the manufacturers of the balustrade.

Yes keep on keeping on, grind the buggers down.

“Crayon assisted drawing” (is what i do 🤣)

That is really shit and I feel for you. I would be pissed off too.

As an ex BT engineer that’s an odd one, perhaps an engineer doubled up because of previous problems, however it should not compromise the signal. You could try un crimping one end and test the loop to the crimped ends with a multimeter to prove continuity. In rural areas cable length to the cab/exchange has always been problematic and you only need damp in one of the many joints to cause problems. Call them out, they will do a test from the exchange to prove cable continuity.

👍makes sense, plus if it goes wrong you take it back. edit…this looks like a second fix gun which usually fires Brad’s rather than nails (with a head). I had an im65a (angled second fix Brad nailer) which was good for lightweight internal stuff but I would not use that for boards on a container. A first fix gun, IM350 is what I think you need 👍

Which is why I built an enclosed porch 🤷‍♂️(air lock).

I agree, it’s about choice.

How are you fixing the battens to the container?

I have only had paslode first and second fix and despite the first fix being a bit heavy makes jobs like yours a doddle (saves going to the gym!). Semi buried clipped head in sawn wood was my choice. I sold them after some years for nearly what I bought them for second hand.

welcome to THE self building forum, just because you are connected to the grid does not stop you producing your own electricity and may give you the opportunity to sell any excess. Can’t wait to hear questions and learn about your plans etc.

Can we be nosey and ask where you are at the moment? (being nosey really)

When I lived in Devon a local farmer told me most cattle there was raised on concrete and fed “meal”. But as @Gone West says local grass fed meat is available. It’s personal choice and not just down to financial/energy driven effectiveness, it’s good we have a choice that we can make.

But your “label” says Isle of Skye ?

So you don’t buy Chinese goods?

However @flanagaj don’t let us spoil your fun if you want a go, if you do it and get it right you will be dead chuffed with yourself. As I am renowend fir saying “what could possibly go wrong 🤷‍♂️”

I agree with you Nick, which is why (a bit late in the day) I have changed my mind, keep banging your drum and things might change (but not quickly).

I disagree, it was the west that started the Industrial Revolution (pollution) so we should be the first to try and reverse that, with regards “desolating our neighbours” unless you advocate isolationism how can we control what countries like China do?, yes we could stop importing their stuff but who would pay the price.? And who would be willing to do that. As said before change will happen slowly and I do believe it’s heading in the right direction.

In all my years fitting kitchens and bathrooms I have only had one let go and that had been fitted badly (not by me). Not all flexi,s are equal, if they are willing to give a 10 year guarantee I believe they will have sourced a decent make.

Very interesting Nick, as you know I built in brick and block (heavy weight) and this was done for several reasons. Brick because I hate render, maintenance, cracking etc. internal heavy block because I hate “hollow” houses and even thermalite blocks are difficult to fix too (IMO). I did however have a large fully filled cavity and fairly airtight. Not that I am going to build another house but if I was I would probably go brick and timber frame with cellulose blown insulation AND line with ply/OSB under the plasterboard to give a more solid feel and be able to hang stuff from it. (I just had a coat rack fall of the wall of my new place because it was fixed to the plasterboard dot and dab only 🤷‍♂️.)

To expand on that my build was a conclusion to a life of DIY and doing houses up, never built a complete house before and I loved every minute of it (retired, funds available, no pressure) and a love of doing things myself. I loved the JCB, did lots of jobs around the site, great fun. However most here are not in that situation (I believe) and are controlled by finance, time scales and family/work commitments. So what I am saying is even I, who wanted to do everything myself, delegated (paid) for certain works to be done so I could concentrate on the stuff I was good at/enjoyed.

Then crack on! I am just saying I have been there and it’s not as easy at it looks (but can be great fun) 👍

Wrong levels, sides collapsing, wrong location, uneven base 🤷‍♂️, yes stick to less important holes in the ground. Then again being devils advocate, I get a great kick out of doing work myself so if you want to do it then go ahead.

Well I had my own JCB and got quite good at using it but on the advise of my builder we got a local retired old boy who had been doing it for years to dig the founds and he was so accurate and quick it was worth paying him (a little). I think it depends on how confident you are and the impact of getting it wrong. I tried to limit my work to what I knew I was good at. ( I gift my kicks out of digging trees out and drain trenches)