joe90

I have just installed the doors above like Jeremy etc, and they look fab, I used 2’ 9” downstairs and 2’6” upstairs, had to pack all the openings slightly but this enabled me to get the linings accurate to fit the doors as so many doors have very little to plane off nowadays.

Perhaps think about wiring that that you may or may not use ( not like me!) wiring is so difficult or impossible to put in afterwards!

That’s why I like Daves solution, manual control. If you have a shower or bath and no excess steam is produced don’t put it on, if your doing lots of cooking, put it on. We have only had a few showers and baths in our new build and the MVHR is not yet up and running and we have not needed it ( so far)

I think I have the same unit as you Dave, shame I did not think to wire manual switches as that’s a great idea in my mind, I might be able to retro some in the bathrooms ( pull switches) but not in the kitchen ?. Could you let me know where you found that manual input for summer bypass as it’s something I would like to do ( later when I get that far).

Jeremy, a comprehensive answer to my problems ( as always) many thanks.

We also had a dick head neighbour who like yours rang the council every time I moved something on site ( before we had planning permission) he objected to me using my JCB but I was clearing the ditches around the field attached to our site which was agricultural!! In the end the council were fed up with him so mostly ignored him but it grinds you down. He objected to our application for planning but the building inspector for the Secretary of State who dealt with our appeal dismissed his objections outright. Luckily he has moved ? as others have said, keep a diary and file all council documentation.

Duh, I need to digest all this info. My electrician popped in ( for a cup of tea as he has become a good friend) and it was him that asked why we need pipe stats, so, in the ASHP programming I guess you set the temp of water it delivers and when the tank stats reach their desired temp the ASHP is told to shutdown?

Mine is a Kingspan 4kw ( same as Jeremy,s I think). I also got the advanced programmer so I am sure the ASHP can be controlled from this.

Terry, so sorry to hear of your state of health, I am sure others like me wish you a speedy recovery and being more able to enjoy your new build. Another good example of shared knowledge that this forum provides, look after your health and recognise when things are going wrong. Life ain’t easy.

Right, I need to get my head around wiring for the UFH, ASHP, etc. PeterW has shared his diagram with me as his system is similar but I have a question, do we need pipe stats? The DHW tank and buffer tank for the UFH both have tank stats, surely the ASHP delivers water at the temp programmed and the tanks tell the ASHP when it’s up to temperature. There is talk of water at different temps going to different tanks but I don’t see how a pipe stat would control this but only short cycle the ASHP to keep the temp lower. I plan to run the ASHP to only about 45 degrees to ( hopefully) stop a defrost cycle. On a separate question, is it not possible to programme the ASHP to deliver water at a higher temp but when it detects it’s about to go into defrost mode it simply stops, this way when the weather is good you get hotter water ( up to tank set temps) and on cold winter days lower temps but no defrost cycle.

I have an identical one in our other bathroom so I have switched that on to see if it gets as hot.

Where would I be without you guys ? Right, masking tape on a temp of 98.5c measured.( thanks Jeremy) Yes Nick, no way I can keep any part of my hand on the rad. I think I will buy adjustable thermostatic elements. Anyone buying towel rads beware of the mistake i made. all hail the forum.

I understand Jeremy,s finding about working outside, I am beginning to loath the work left indoors ( unless it’s raining?) and want to get outside and tidy up the garden and paddock, it’s been a sh@t heap for so long. Also I have a workshop where I want to tinker, do woodwork WHEN I want to, not because that’s the next job on my long list to get finished. That being said I love what has been completed on our build so far. I had a long hot soak in my new deep bath last night?

Huh, I used an infrared thermometer ( not used before); just tried it on other things, walls floors and it seems ok/ accurate but on the chrome of the radiator it’s way off. Just re read the instructions and I am using it correctly. ?

Yup.does not sound so hot in C but could do some damage, especially to an OAP ( like me) or a child.

Just measured the temp at about 86.5F ?

That’s my boy, attention to detail all the way. I would have thought bolting them together would get rid of the twist, make them stronger, avoid a gap and stop future movement. I am surprised bolting was not specified, ah crossed posted with Peter.

I have just installed a vortex and very happy with it, one of the cleanest outputs available.

Yes and no. I have absolutely loved building the dream that’s been in my head for 20 years, it has kept me fairly fit for my age. I am lucky that I don’t get stressed as stress has caused me bad health in the past and I won’t go there again. I am lucky that I don’t need a mortgage and my budget is going well. I am now, after a few years, becoming tired of the endless work and the end in Ni as they say, time to enjoy it. Then I have to sort out the acre of garden ?

Well done Peter, just the ticket mate. ?

In our recently finished ( ish) new build we don’t have any heating yet so I thought I would leave the electric towel radiator in the en suite on 24/7 to keep er indoors happy as she feels the cold. It gets very very hot and although we know it, it is still a bit dangerous ( grand daughter is visiting soon and I don’t want an accident). I do have a timer which I will use once the heating is working but is there a way to regulate it but don’t want to dig out buried wiring. Someone has suggested a dimmer to limit the power to it?.

On a similar vein, I have just got my hot water connected ( by immersion) and was pleased to find out that the 9m run from the DHW tank to the tap in 10mm plastic pipe only took 10 seconds to get hot water at the tap, it appears using 10mm pipe was a success (phew) and the flow at 2bar is very adequate .

I think it’s all down to your building inspector and what he will accept, it’s been said on here many times that there is no consistency with building regs around the country. Give him a call and he will son tell you what HE will accept.

Our double electric ovens have a cable run of about 15m and it was not questioned by the electrician.

Thanks guys for your comments, ref building control, she did point out completion in the eyes of building control was not the same which I already knew, she has given me 6 weeks notice and I will read and re read the above see what I can do. ( Pisttttt, Dave, we are actually sleeping upstairs as it is virtually finished and carpeted ?).