joe90

My detached garage 10m x 12m did not require the ceiling to be boarded, timber structure with metal roofing.

Ha, got it working ? however, you are right Dave, speed 1 is fast and 4 is slow ????, I am going to reverse wire it as that defies logic. Thanks a lot mate.

I bought mine fir about the same money, it’s a punt but such a saving. I don’t know the make tho?

No, all one zone. I have got a Wunda thermostat controller with air temp and floor probe but Jeremy found the room (air) temp works best for his so I thought I would adopt this approach, the floor probe is there in case I need it. The command unit I bought (which also allows control of heating curves, whatever they are ?) can also act as thermostatic control and timer for heating. The command unit is in the cloakroom and the Wunda controller the hallway so not sure which would be best. From reading the controller installation book the heat in is set to one temp and the heat out is set a different temp.!!! i think that with our house I would heat in the early hours to make the house warm to wake up to (like our electric UFH and towel radiator in our en suite does) then heat again late afternoon for comfort in the evening. We get a fair amount of solar gain in the day. Also we may go E7 or E10 to benefit from heating and DHW during cheap hours . i know that response times from the heating will be very slow due to the heavy weight house so it will take plenary of “suck it and see”. P.S. just tried to start the UFH using immersion and found the plumber did not open the flow valves so floor loops still full of air! So need to bleed that lot ?

Here you go, yes the common for the speed control is teed to the com of the “summer-winter” switch. I didn’t think but I could have sent this before to help you ?.

Thanks a lot for this info Dave, I think I bought the last controller on Ebay (sorry) but only just found that the wiring diagram did not come with it, I presumed the MVHR unit docs would have t but no!. Interesting that my controller shows 1 as slowest and 4 as fastest?

Wow, an example of rubbish build quality, good for you for putting it right. Attention to detail is a major factor in my opinion and a reason that us self builders get a better result even with the same materials. Are you going to wet plaster or dot and dab (lots on here don’t like it). But if done properly is better than most do it. I would wet plaster as this will parge the blockwork (stop even more air leakage).

Right, been engaging the little grey cells and think I have come up with a plan, please comment. The Kingspan control interface can act as the room stat and timer for heating which I intend to use. I can control the UFH pump with a timer (as long as it lines up with the controller or longer). Or, I could control the UFH pump with the stat on the buffer tank (with coil). If I do this the ASHP will heat the buffer tank and when it’s up to say 25’ the pump actuated, the ASHP will continue to heat the water up to the set max. The blending valve on the manifold will make sure the water stays below say 24’ (or whatever is set). This does mean the floor will continue to be heated after the heating has gone off till the buffer tank is reduced to 25’. Also the heating will be delayed on start up till the buffer tank is up to the set temp (but I guess this will happen with a buffer tank anyway). DHW will be controlled by the tank stat and I will add a timer if we go E7 or E10. The DHW tank came with two stats, lower and upper, I am thinking that if I wire a changeover switch between them I can control the amount of hot water heated, upper stat for the two of us, lower for a house full of guests! Is this a good plan or should I go back to woodwork?.

At least you have decent ground, not like my solid yellow clay ?.

In my defence I asked the DNO guys when they installed the temp meter box and they thought it was not a problem. Hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Just to be clear, I moved the meter housing complete with tails and hockey stick (duct and it’s cables within them) about one metre, I did not touch any cable connections, this was done by my qualified electrician on the customer side of the meter/isolation switch.

Wot if, I programme the command unit to deliver heating x o’clock till y o’clock at z temp, this will raise the temp of the buffer tank. If I then use the buffer stat set at say 25’ to switch on the UFH pump. This will then pump water round the floor only when the buffer temp is above the set 25’ (or any other temp that’s set?). If the buffer gets above 25’ then the blending valve will hold it to temp. ?

I don’t have the figures to hand, my frames were hand made in oak, very “cottage”, if they were triple the frames would have looked very chunky.

This is what I did, put the new supply to a cavity box on a couple of posts near where the back of the garage was going to be (meter in back of garage), when they connected it I told them it where it would eventually go and they left enough cable for it to reach, I built the garage and swung it in myself then got my spark to connect it up (customer side). Result.

I also live in a quiet location and my double glazing is within a gnats whisker of triple. I want the solar gain and plan to have heavy curtains when it’s dark and cold outside.

I am nearly an OAP and work every day but my tea breaks get longer and more often. Did anyone see that Ben Fogle prog last night, late 70,s guy living in the wilds, one eye, still extending his Cabin, works every hour of every day.

My brick layers admitted to me that they did not Iike a full fill cavity but I pointed out the insulation had a BBA cert for full fill. They were very good and protected the insulation against snots.

Oh bugger, my sympathy, I too had a similar experience lifting a velux when out on a roof, brickies had to lift me off the roof. One of them had had a similar experience so understood. They laid me on a sheet of insulation and he got me to relax, difficult is not the word, but it worked, the spasm is driven by muscles tensing. After an hour they helped me to my van, strapped me into the seat by winding the seatbelt round me tight and I drove home. I still get a spasm now and again but find lying prone and breathing slowly does help. I found a Physio that understood deep massage and that helped a lot, chiro,s are better for joint/bone problems I believe.

Mine could not be on grand designs, too traditional and on budget (and the windows were not late !!! )

Here you go

I would rather not start taking the pipework apart again but I take your point on two separate valves. No, but on @Nickfromwales advise I got a valve that was either DHW or UFH and no mid point.

I suppose you would not want the UFH pump to operate till the buffer was up to temp? I am hoping to not use the programmable stat or timer as I believe the command unit will do all this. ?

I am stuck regarding my ASHP and getting the UFH to work from it. Below is the wiring diagram for the Aeromax but I cannot see how the UFH pump can be wired to it, also I have a buffer tank for the UFH with a stat and not sure where the stat would be wired too. I bought a command unit which will programme everything (including the heat curves) so I should not need the timer or programmable stat. I am sure I am not the only one with a Kingspan Aeromax (carrier rebadged) ASHP . Ta

My parish council supported my application (mostly local farmers that knew the site) only by not objecting!!. Don’t people get it that if small villages don’t expand and welcome new people they will die off, it’s no wonder pubs and local shops are going out of business. If I remember correctly government some years ago gave local councils more autonomy over local planning decisions. My fight for planning permission took two years and as the original house had burned down the site was an untidy tip for two years more than it needed to be.

In China C.E. Means Chinese export ?