joe90

Wunda did this for me and specced 90 -100 m loops, x 5, two on the kitchen diner, two on the lounge and one for hall and cloak. Suggested flow of 2ltr-min (well, 2 something?).

When you say loops you mean UFH loops?, this is usually done by mains pressure water via a hose connected to the manifold and a drain hose the other end of the manifold. Only open up one loop at a time till no more air bubbles out with the water, when all loops are done leave it pressured at mains pressure. Mine was air in the heating and DHW pipework (not UFH loops) from ASHP to DHW tank and buffer tank for feeding the UFH manifold. For this I directly wired 240 volts with a fly lead and three pin plug to the pump (make sure the other wiring is disconnected so you don’t blow anything.) I then set the pump on full power (6 in my case with a wilo pump) and left it alone, lots of gurgling over the next hour or so. Occasionally I would crack a joint high in the system (where there is not an air bleed valve) and release any air. Hope this helps .

As most of you will have seen I have been working hard to get my ASHP working!!!, now that it is, we have noticed that the lounge feels a little colder than the other rooms, this may be because it’s the only room we sit in, the others we are usually more active in so that may be the case. Our downstairs is all one zone but I wondered if I could up the temp in the lounge simply by upping the flow rate to the two loops within that room? I did not want to create different zones by using stats on the manifold.

Is this not what @JSHarris does with his?, using a room stat?

Now that I have my ASHP going ?I am really pleased with it, running costs are yet to be seen but I can compare them to the costs for the last two months running immersions for heating (in the buffer tank) and DHW tank. I may consider E7 or E10 to add to the COP that I get. @TerryE where did you get £200 annual maintenance from, as I understand it , it’s like an MVHR in that a visual inspection of the filter/fins is required (DIY) and the pressure tank inspection that’s required, can’t imagine that’s £200 a time? My ASHP (brank new still on its pallet and still shrink wrapped but no gaurentee) was £850. Other kit about £50 tops.

@GHDirect have you seen my thread about my heat pump not working?, similar in that only low water temps were reached. Also we had problems with the “diverter” valve (not three way) In that the valve instructions show DHW when parked and heating when actuated, however my ASHP powers the valve when DHW is required so we had to turn it round. In all this, because of mis information from my room stat supplier I blew the main processor board and had to replace it. Problems setting the programmes followed. I concentrated on heating only at first and found a lot of air in the system so powered the pump directly and left it on full chat for an hour which released a lot of air. I then forced the DHW to be heated and did the same. Mine now works (subject to trimming ) and got nearly 60’ tonight and believe programming and air both contributed to my problems.

Yup, me too, took a while to get used to it and I do find mine does not draw as well as I expected but it warms the lounge (door to hallway open) nicely, not overheated yet. I also have bifolds out to a sunroom so could disperse heat that way if necessary.

@JSHarris I think you may well be right, I ended up changing loads of parameters and then changing them back!!! I have wired it differently (again) and converted the Wunda stat back to non dry contacts (using its powered output to drive the manifold pump). I will be changing parameters again tomorrow to try and end up with what we want. P.S. the temp devise you recommended is great and I have ordered a few more to register temps around the system.

Hooray, it’s all working. Got DHW feed up near 60’ and heating near 35. It’s time to play with the parameters and set it up to suit our house. I was beginning to think, like @ProDave I had bought a dud on Ebay. I will report back on how I have now wired it and set it up after a good play tomorrow.

https://www.nuenta.com/viewproduct.asp?pid=109. Metal heat exchanger about £3k. Is the canal used?, I know canal boats don’t use anchors but I would be worried about it being dredged up!, if like @PeterW said above you used pipe, you could bury it in the mud at the bottom of the canal (with or without permission ?) and it would be safer I would have thought! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Green-Nylon-Chest-Waders-100-Waterproof-Fly-Coarse-Fishing-Muck-Wader/191685714599?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55148%26meid%3Ddfc8b5f9c9bf4442a59b5d16469d9a6e%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D191685714599&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226. Just a thought ?

Black painted steel and wood?.

Thats not a typo is it???, I paid £850 for my ASHP ?

B. I. Popped round and saw me taking the hut down and said he would log it as “work started”. The planners tried to stop work as we were fighting for planning permission still, but I informed them I was building the garage under permitted development as the original timber and asbestos bungalow was still there when I started (the planning permission was to replace it with a cottage and a garage).

I did not have a demolition order, I was simply replacing a “Nissan” hut with a proper garage and removing the Nissan hut was deemed as starting”. I found building control to be more helpful than planners, ask them round for advise, ours were very helpful (in fact the first thing he said was “ I am not a planner” as the planners round here have a bad reputation ?).

When you are about to start inform building control, they will then have it documented, they may want to pop out and have a look anyway, ours did.

Mine will be tested after finishing as the internal airtightness is wet plaster to rendered internal block walls and windows and doors silicone’d to structure. Yet to find out how successful we were ?.

Welcome and bring the questions on, we love it. Mine is a traditional block and brick construction but with more than usual insulation and great attention to airtightness detail. Not a passive hous but following its principles. Simply because I want a comfy house that does not cost me a fortune to run in my retirement.

As far as I remember any demolition is counted as starting, photograph before and after demolition with a date stamp on the photo, is there something you could demolish?

+1 on steel with oak treads, handrail etc.

Glad to be a help, I have received soo much help here myself, I am forever grateful to so many ?

@Redoctober Just looked at the website and the flue can be top or rear, so what about rear and 90’ bend to bring it forward like you want?

@Redoctober what stove is it?

Was thinking that myself. (Great minds think alike ?)

Not read it all but this might help. https://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/BFCMA-General-Guidance-10-12-12.pdf we have two 45’ bends but above the fireplace behind the chimney breast and that works ok.

At the mo it’s not wired correctly BUT this is to force the ASHP to heat the buffer to the temp I am trying to achieve. if you prog the command unit to act as a room stat (which is what I wanted originally) you are unable to set the water temp that you want. You can only set the water temp by using dry contacts (means a separate room stat). As above I have tried using a climatic curve to see if I can achieve a better temp. As @JSHarris has said before the command unit is a pig to work out. My plumber neighbour just popped in to see how i was getting on, he reckons I have air in the system (pump sounds noisier than the manifold pump, and it’s the same type!) so going on a bleed everything stint in the morning.