joe90

Now that’s what I call real woodwork, I would love to have a go myself (with a machine to lift the logs tho).

When they installed my treatment plant they used “dry” mix, it was just damp, wet enough to be concrete but not to flow like the slab they laid. Also they filled the tank level with the concrete as it was being backfilled. Yes “curb” mix makes sense, dry enough to be built up around curbs stones.

And me, why should I pay more tax because I have invested my money in a nice property, and one that’s kind to the planet? Also tax all earners, not the property owner, that should stop scrounges living for free in other peoples houses!

Ha, my inspector turned up to introduce himself, was at pains to point out he was not a planner (as they have such a bad rep around here), said it’s clay here innit, and some trees so 800mm deep should be ok.! Dig it out and give me a call, called him and he popped round and said carry on ? he then said as you have the digger on site you could dig a soakaway, I pointed out a soakaway on solid yellow clay was called a Swimming pool!,, and I suggested I piped surface water into the ditch next to it and he agreed, result!

It looks more like a cess pit with an overflow, no separate chambers fir bugs to work???

I also have a hipped roof (warm) and hung my unit from the roof timbers on triangular ply panels then used flexible 6” pipes from unit to manifold (home made) and unit to wall vents. Main reason for hanging from the roof was to stop any noise transference through the floor to the bedrooms, it’s also on rubber mounts.

@BotusBuild, same as me, loads if insulation, attention to detail (air tightness) orientation, MVHR and ASHP. What’s your preference build make up (timber frame, block, brick sips etc)

Hi @BotusBuild, the buffer tank is plumbed with its contents connected to the flow and return on the manifold, the ASHP is plumbed with its flow and return heating a large coil within the tank, this limits the amount of fluid requiring anti freeze. The tank stat controls the heat of the contents of the tank, not the coil. We have one zone, downstairs and the pump on the manifold is controlled by a room stat in the hallway. To vary heat slightly between areas the flow rate is adjusted (i,e, lounge slightly warmer as that is where we sit rather than working/walking). The ASHP heats the buffer but the heat is not sent to the manifold unless the room stat calls for heat.

As some of you will know we have UFH in our new build and it was completed (almost) about 8 months ago. On advise from this forum I was advised to have a 90ltr buffer tank to stop the ASHP short cycling. I wired it so that the buffer tank was heated whenever the buffer tank stat called for heat, the reasoning being if the house required heat as called for by a room stat we would not have to wait fir the buffer to be heated then the slab which could be a long time. Now that it’s summer, the house is not calling for heat at all (well not on the last few weeks) but I have noticed the buffer periodically calls for heat. The tank is well insulated as is the pipework but there are small losses. Others on this forum have no buffer and theirs appears to run ok. I am tempted to remove the buffer tank. I suppose I could seasonally turn the buffer tank stat off (disconnected) but could suffer if we had a cold spell. I have no data to prove the costs of heating the buffer during the summer, plan B is to go E7 as the house holds heat well (a heavy house) and I could use timers for both heating and DHW. All comments welcome.

But you still need to agree with discharge arrangements.

But we have not all tried to cut a live cable and ended up with a notch in our side cutters ??????.

I used to use side cutters but due to old age my grip is less than it was, I bought one of these cheapies for my build and wish I had done so years ago https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Adjustable-Automatic-Cable-Wire-Crimper-Crimping-Tool-Stripper-Plier-Cutter/401457846747?epid=16031184053&hash=item5d78c099db:g:TSMAAOSwXCVcgmxi

As far as distance from the house it’s down to the BC officer, as far as discharge it’s down to the environment agency. With ours we are also on heavy clay and wanted to discharge to a ditch that was wet/running only 9 months of the year using a rumble drain. I found the environment agency very helpful and helped us with our permission to discharge.

Basically an architect designs your build, an artist of sorts, different architects have different styles. An A.T. Simply puts your requirements on paper/CAD for the planning/building regs. Others here may have a different view!

I think it depends on whether you know what you want, for example we knew exactly what we wanted and I have fairly extensive building knowledge, if you are hoping an architect will come up with a design for you then it’s an architect you require. I am not a fan of some architects as I have found most try to design what they want and not what the customer wants and don’t stick to budgets. I am sure there are some good architects out there, get recommendations to find a good one.

We have planned the patio, paths etc and they are going down soon, after that we plan to level the whole plot and seed it with grass so it’s mowable, after that we can add trees, shrubs and dig in borders as we see fit. Yes it would be good to have a plan but we need to see it flat first and a blank canvas. We are hoping to join the local gardening club (so we get loads of freebies and good ideas ?)

Yes, our last house had a very good garden that was obviously professionally designed, not thought about it for here but definitely worth considering (just remembered my sparky,s wife does this so may give them a call). Whatever I do it will be better than what exists!

Ha, you ain’t seen nothing, this is what I have got to turn into a garden. Will willing swop with you!

I have used these for “adding “brick or block and they work well. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-screw-ties-25-pack/31633?tc=SB6&ds_kid=92700034760608690&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249407&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW5_6I-Gkz8WfYaojmfhfciuxepClvAzz1jHTamVqofi_t7nnTBgshxoCxh0QAvD_BwE

A very essential bit of kit and great fun as well. Good on you.

Ha, just noticed that I said above I was going to put the Shepard’s hut in the “meadow” currently it’s a muddy morass due to years of neglect from the previous tenant, WE have discussed OUR plans to turn it into a pleasant meadow to compliment the cottage that I have just built. Ratty.

Yes a static has very little insulation and loads of ventilation (ask me how I know?) but fairly easy to heat and costs a lot less than renting.

Not got that far yet but I have already bought a set of cast iron wheels, probably all timber and not too big as we don’t need to sleep in it, just a garden room on wheels with character. With our site I bought an old static to live in (on my own as er indoors still working 130 miles away) .

Very timely thread as a am planning a Shepard’s hut fir our meadow now the house is nearly finished. @janelondon you don’t need planning if it has wheels and can be moved (even with a crane) as it is classed as temporary. We hope to use it as a counselling room fir my wife’s business and drinky poos in the summer. I did find a neat small woodburner on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-Coal-Wood-Burner-stove-heater-BOAT-CAMPER-YURT-SHEPHERDS-HUT-SHED-MAN-CAVE/132514653615 I was worried about condensation and thought similar to Jane on the wall build up, but using tongue and groove to line the inside. I like @SteamyTea curved I beam but won’t be parking a car on the roof so feel safe with that one.

With our planning application they kept quoting that next door was only 6.9 mtrs high and ours was higher, eventually I went round next door (when they were out) and measured the gable, it was 1200mm higher than their planning condition (but it was 8 years ago). I then pointed out ours was LOWER than theirs!!,. They still objected but the appeal officer pointed out their error (amongst others,) when we won our appeal on the planning refusal.