joe90

yup, it’s what I did behind flooring joists where plastering can’t be done (tho I did mine with a trowel)

Do you know if the concrete floor has a damp course? In some older houses they laid bitumen on Concrete as a damp course so make sure before you remove it. I think bitumen is difficult to glue to. However wood block flooring used to be laid on/glued down using bitumen.

Mine has no function to run on extract only either, plus any air that does come in through leaks will still smell of outside air!!!

My Egger board floor was laid by my builder (cus I was ill!) and he used a few nails in the first boards to stop them moving, then only glued all the rest with d4 and it’s solid as a rock. Out in a very wet winter fir months (I was worried about damp in them) but once the roof was on and dried up the floor was fine .

yes I have heard of that too, not seen one though, bit like a balanced flue for gas boiler I guess?.

@pocster what stove are you buying/got?

We also have a log burner with pipe buried under floor to outside for incoming air to the stove (room sealed), because of its controllable nature and small size with internal doors open it does not get too hot (unless lit fir many hours). It don’t suppose it matters where the pipe comes from!

Ha, a mate of mine recently told me he was going to save as he had a smart meter fitted (his wife stood behind him shaking her head) ?

https://www.taps4less.com/Self-Closing-Taps.html oops cross posted ?

Not for cleanliness reasons but I have installed lever taps for many an older person who find them easier to use, @AnonymousBosch no offence but with your restricted digits you may find lever taps easier to use?. After nearly amputating my left thumb that hand has less strength and I find certain things much harder with my left hand. Hospitals have lever taps for cleanliness reasons!!!!!

As far as taking a planning decision out of the hands of a trained professional (planner) and handing it to committee IMO that’s not a bad thing, our planning officer (one persons point of view) was found by the appeal officer to be way out of order and not following their own policies, surely a group of professionals would come to a better conclusions. Unfortunately in our case the committee followed the planning officer, I have heard on the grapevine they were told which way to vote!!!. At parish council meetings in our area planning is dealt with by the whole council (very small group) who deal with all things “parish”. I enquired about costs from the council following my successful appeal but told I could not claim.

Sorry @Big Jimbo but I agree with @Jeremy Harris and take exception to you calling my wife a twat. Her interest In all things local as an unpaid volunteer is admirable despite them having very little power. In our area if the parish council object to a planning application it is not necessarily called into committee, I have witnessed several cases locally. Whilst I tend to agree with your view about planners, my comment earlier was MOST planners etc as do not know all planners personally, as you do not personally know all parish councillors.

My wife has just become a parish councillor ? and from attending a few meetings it is my impression that they have no real power but give a view based on local knowledge as their “patch” is much smaller than the planners and local. Several applications around here were called into question because locals could see what was going on which a remote planning officer would not know about.

I was not aware of that.I was informed costs were only awarded if the council failed to abide by rules for planning our planner suggested I do this , what a farce!!,

Yes it needs a councillor to call it in for you. I like that idea of a friend objecting ?, try to speak last, that way you can cover anything that’s been said before you speak (unlike I was able).

You can take your application to committee if a councillor forwards it fir you, that way it’s not just one planner that’s calling the shots (although our committee threw ours out, even the councillor that was supporting us would not look me in the eye at the council meeting when they voted it down,) some “untruths “ were even told but I was not allowed to object as we had already had our 10 minutes. It was a farce but no way of recourse on our side.

My situation was very similar, Please don’t think they will have “common sense!”, ours had none. We were replacing an existing (nearly derelict) bungalow, first telephone call to the planners informed me we could extend by 10% (didn’t mention permitted development) or go up a floor So I drew up plans for our cottage slightly larger than the old bungalow . We wanted to use another entrance that had been put in many years previously (written permission from council) which was safer to exit (don’t talk to me about highways either!!!. Long story short 4 planning applications later (fir something we did not want but ground floor was so the plan was by the time we got to first floor we would win an appeal (which I did it myself, not difficult) and won hands down. Council told us we did not have permission to use new entrance (even though I sent them a copy of their permission), Told us we did not own land to create a splay, yes we did but splay existed . ( I won’t go on with a long list) Frankly I would not pay (some) planners in washers. Cost me a lot of money, cost me two years. Don’t be afraid to go to appeal, I hope your planning consultant is better than mine (hopeless). Appeal even told the planners they were not abiding by their own policies!!!,!!! End of rant.

sorry but I could not disagree more. As per others above, yes you buy a bit more insulation (which In the overall cost is minimal) and better quality windows (mine are not triple glazed but good quality double glazed with minimal thermal difference from triple). The big gain is attention to detail, no good having insulation with gaps that negate its values. Also good planning, making use of solar gain, small North facing windows. My build came in around the “normal “ figure but like others I did a lot of the work myself (this is a self build forum ! ). I think the additional theoretical figure comes from the assumption that you have to bolt on “green bling”.

CAD = (crayon assisted drawing) ?????

I would still talk to building control, even if it did heave a little it would all still stay together, it’s not habitable!

@starbuckhouse please be good enough to tell us how you proceed.

this garage is not PD, the lean to workshop is (class E above applies) no where does or state the “outbuilding must be stand alone “. No, the garage has planning permission, the lean too (if it were me) would be built under PD. If the garage were PD then the planners might take into account the whole building now being PD but It still would fit all regs. Its @starbuckhouse call but as far as I can see his case to build under PD is very clear. Frankly, as others have said elsewhere the planners will tell you to apply as it’s Income. I have been through this loop many times.

I think they calculate that way with multipliers because most people can’t measure the gable slope distance (actual distance from ridge to guttering).

oh no, I do the housework anyway, retired with working other half ? Yes she is working at home mostly (essential worker).

I have always said the location of a build has a big impact on heat loss/gain and that is difficult to measure. When I said I was building a south facing conservatory on my build I was told we would cook in summer but because we very often have winds in a flat landscape (and large openable windows) the chill factor is welcome. The west bedroom (no heating) is definitely cooler than the East bedroom (no heating) by a couple of degrees because of the wind wash. I have bought greenhouse netting to hang in the conservatory roof to stop the plant’s burning during the height of summer. (Hopefully ?). Apart from the depths of winter our house is heated by the conservatory and is controlled by opening and closing the two sets of bi folds into the house.