joe90

It wasn’t me guv that mentioned your tiles, it @ProDave sir!!,!

SSSHHHHHH!

Same as me, cleaner on a stick!

My BCO didn’t see any of the pipework or joints, just said on the final visit “you have no trickle vents because you have MVHR”. (didn’t even ask for the commission figures fir it). As the airflow is so slow is tape really required, virtually no air pressure I would have thought?

I am not an expert on ASHP,s and radiators but with a normal boiler the TRV is the way to limit the room temp, surely it’s the same with an ASHP?

Glad you appear to be getting somewhere with this, hats off to Vaillant for giving you the time. Do you have TRV,s on your radiators? (Thermostatic radiator valves), as this would be the way to limit temps within each room!.

why, that would be my go to solution (brick preferably, three or four courses).

Can the “kitchen” not be added afterwards!!,!, call it a cupboard for now ?.

@zoothorn I asked about the DHW a couple of pages ago, and it was to establish that your ASHP can deliver hot water, and it can!!!”, now ffs turn off the rads that @ProDave asked about, don’t argue about why, just do it and report back. also if it works you have one room that is warm to decend your nuts.

Well zoot, are you going to do what @ProDave says and turn on only one rad?

I find that strange. My builder used hooks, I have always used tiles when I was a builder , I am very impressed with the hooks, cannot see them from the ground and as I said slates are removable/replaceable which must be a great advantage. I don’t see why an architect or a BC would specify such a thing?

THE PRESS (or the threat of it with all the 64 pages of problems and help from members here ) evidence = temperature of the heating water your getting (you never answered my question of DHW?).

Do your nails not do the same? (And there are two of them per slate).?

Well done, I know it’s stressful but the only way to go I believe ?

why? (Genuine question) they still work in sarking surely?

OH YES IT IS, YOU ARE THE CUSTOMER!!!!

I bet his wife and neighbours are glad to see him go down there!!!!

At fecking last, another way of saying it’s not fit fir purpose that I have been banging on about fir ages.

Hi Steve, I escaped from Bristol. Yes as an ex builder you will have lots of knowledge and skills, I too was a builder, but as you said, technology has moved a pace , especially in building. This forum has been brilliant in bringing me up to speed on new techniques when building my retirement home. I have learned so much. Looking forward to following your questions and progress with your build. We are more like a club.

NO, but I have UFH not radiators and loads of insulation.

I second using Spanish, it’s what we used and looks good and very little breakage. I also recommend using slate hooks, means slates can be replaced without stripping whole roof.

Question 1, please answer yes or no (only) Question 2, please answer yes or no (only) @zoothorn please answer the questions.

Welcome, we all started somewhere so don’t be afraid with the questions. I would pose each question in the appropriate subgroup otherwise subjects get mixed up. Looking forward to hearing about progress and pictures.

For what it costs I would use a dry concrete mix, peace of mind. We had to do that with ours as our water table is high but spookily when the hole was dug it looked dry but I was not willing to take the risk.

With my build I knew the cable was coming from a nearby pole, so on that corner of the house, under the eaves, I installed a length of overflow pipe (22mm I think) through into the loft space where I had prewired several rooms, pipe was sealed into the brickwork/blockwork with silicone and after the cable was installed used the same silicone to make it airtight both ends.