joe90

@Onoff have a read of this….. https://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/flint/flint.htm found this….. sheltered exposure lime putty 1 : well graded sharp sand 1.5 : porous limestone 1.5 : brick pozzolan 1 moderate exposure natural hydraulic lime (NHL2) 1 : well graded sharp sand 1.5 : porous limestone 1 severe exposure natural hydraulic lime (NHL3.5) 1 : well graded sharp sand 2.

Make no assumptions!!!!,, tell them what you plan to do then wait while they tell you different.

Yup, no sympathy, I hope they make them pull it down. Despite the fact I had to fight our planners I still abided by the rules.

Piss off (from a retired builder ?)

Oh go on then, includes compost heap as well (the steel mesh is to stop my terrier pulling logs out to get to mice/rats in the log pile)

Ditto.

Well I was told that our south facing conservatory with bifolds into the house would overheat but with all doors and windows open it’s not that bad. It could be too hot fir some plants that don’t like intense direct sunlight so I bought a roll of scaffolding netting which I shall hang in the roof next year (it’s on my too do list). in the summer we tend to keep the bifolds onto the house closed to exclude the heat but in the shoulder months or clear sunny days in winter we open them and I believe it contributes a fair amount of heat into the house. I have a thermometer on the wall and when the conservatory gets above the house temp I open them. Simples.

I won’t show you mine (wood store that is ?) made from old pallets and left over roofing from my garage (and it’s hid round the back so you can’t see it ).

Ha, don’t you just love “spell check” ?( I got it ?)

Yes. (IMO). I think most of the new water based treatments are crap, can’t beat good old fashioned creosote (if it doesn’t kill you first ?).

yes I understand, it’s an anomaly, as said above concrete should contain aggregate and postcrete appears not to. Treat “postcrete” as a Trade name, not a “substance”. As you say postcrete can be expensive but it’s very convenient, I see no problem in banking this post up with ordinary “Mortar” if you have the sand and cement hanging about ?. try reading this…….https://www.withamtimber.co.uk/blog/postcrete-vs-concrete (I think postcrete uses fast setting cement)

Yes, posts rot at ground level mostly, so ramp the concrete up the post slightly so water will run away from the post.

Welcome @Mr Blobby, there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking in the first place (and cocking it up). We have learnt so much from each other here so ask away, and send us lots of pics (as we are also nosy,!!).

It’s her job to keep it tidy then ?

From what other,s have said avoid plant with moving parts in the smelly stuff.

As I put in a different thread I came across a contractor who said he was hearing of people offering 24hr quotes because of spiralling prices.

Welcome to Devon, looking forward to hearing about your project.

Concrete takes 24 to 48 hrs to set BUT takes about 28 days to fully cure.

It also depends on the water level in your soil, if it’s dry the water will soak up, if wet, well you know now ?

Sorry @zoothorn, been away, yes as said above, it will “cure” underwater, but Chuck another bag in, can’t do any harm.

@zoothorn just crack on mate.

Bugger ?

This is the VAT specialist who did my VAT claim for me, he was very accommodating and knowledgable, have a chat with him. https://www.vat431.co.uk

Depends, I am not risk averse, insurance has its place but I don’t insure everything. I think it’s down to your piece of mind, if you will worry about it, Insure it, if not don’t ?‍♂️. If the company no longer exists who is going to notice?

There was a restrictive covenant on a previous house but because of its age and neighbours ignoring it we did the same.