ToughButterCup

12mm round vertical bars, 10mm by 40mm horizontals Thats the one. Mind you, by the time I've done 60 welds, I might just be starting to weld nicely.

I'm building our three Juliet balconies. And as you prolly know, I'm not a welding God . In fact one or two members who will remain nameless, ( @Russell griffiths, chief among them) really bruised my confidence badly.? So I have a question. Look at this - look at the way the verticals intersect with the horizontals...... For each of the verticals, as they go through the horizontals, should I weld both the top and bottom bit of the vertical bar ?

John, have you reviewed the wealth of information on BH about thermal mass? It took me at least a year to get it..... Here's a shortened reading list.

I decide to harness mine to one of their trolley stands - (because I am always moving my workshop)

All of the main names do an 8 inch blade. Set up correctly means you can easily cut a 12 inch piece of wood. Double bevel? Ask Ed ( @Construction Channel )

Right. I going to give it a go using spare 2 by 4 (loads from the shuttering). Now that I think of it, though Declan, my stupid hands.... means I was intending to screw everything together....

Its quite normal. In situations like this I sometimes ask; "Well, since you know your internal systems, and the facts of this case - if you had this problem, what would you do now?"

Thats interesting. Even at that price, how might it be useful for a self build?

I'm sure in the case of the average 9 year old boy, that its a selective perception issue. My hands dirty? What, mine? Sure? Water? Soap? Why?

Is this the stuff that coats the hands of the average 9 year old little boy?

The canal outside our house is drained periodically. My God does it leak during the refill phase, and then, magically (as it were) re-seals itself.

Build Hub does not condone or encourage deviant behaviour. Motor Sniffing may harm your health, especially if you are pregnant old, infirm, or a self builder.

Bear With A Small Brain. Told ya di 'I ? .....

I've seen people do that on YT.....I'm not that confident..... I think I'll do it the 'proper way' (Ed's phrase) Christ I'm learning hand-over-fist........... thanks to you all.

Ahhhh, thought that might be the case.... Anyway, thanks

Well , it's not flat and level like normal ones . This one is at 25 degrees. What to do? Have a look... All 100 by 50, but set at 25 degrees. And so that means that the head needs to be chamfered otherwise it'll push the PB out of line ... So I chopped off a small triangle (see detail above) so the face was vertical. To make the back of the studding work for the PB on the other side, should I nail the off-cut to the back of the stud? Or doesn't it matter?

Ok, I'll use a hole saw......?

And I need to learn from you. Loadsa spare 3mm ply, a table saw, and drill. Job done.

Thanks for the support. The thread on underboarding too early ( Woke up in a cold sweat ) is related to this one ; the advice @PeterW gave is the one I'd prefer to follow. (Place some 4 by 2 across the bottom of the rafters and butt the insulation up to that.) Recently I have been glancing at ceilings to see if I can detect the bumps made my the washers holding the underboarding. And of course, I hardly ever see any, because very few houses have underboarded rafters (I assume) - and I hardly ever get off the site. Nerd......

Build first - an exact number of blocks wide and high: no gaps for windows or doors. Might not be exactly 8 by 8, but it'd only be a few mm out....Then: Cut the gaps out with a concrete chain saw. Easy - (says the guy who doesn't even know which way round an insulation washer should be fitted ? )

Yes, Thats precisely what I will be doing (albeit at smaller scale) in a couple of weeks. Using a concrete saw, chop out the windows and doors after a reasonable interval. (2 weeks?). In our case we're chopping out a mis-placed window opening - moving it 300mm. Thinking a bit about your idea, if you were just a bit canny about it, and didn't mind non-standard size openings -in the case if Durisol- if you could cut a hole exactly in line with the joints in one layer, you'd only cut through half the amount of concrete (vertically) and small amounts laterally. Further, if you were to plan the tops of your doors and windows and drop rebar in one layer above, say two hefty bits per window and a bit more on a door - you'd be laughing! It would be interesting to do a roof in Durisol. Turn the blocks on their side, chop out the insulation, chop one side off and lay them as a set of soldier courses, laced up with rebar. Got me thinking now......?

Thats exactly what happened in our case. Bear in mind that the plot next door to ours was refused - at Appeal too, just a few months after ours was permitted. Both Politics and micropolitics are important

Yes. PHPP. But @JSHarris quick spreadsheet is as good and a much less Teutonic way. And I, first hand experience of the opposite. In general planners couldn't give a stuff, but I think it's fair to argue in certain circumstances, it does matter. It might even depend on the quality of the relationship between your planner and the planning official. And this aspect of sustainability has only just (last year or so) become relevant. So you'll need to be careful about that. Your wife is right.

I bet you've read this, but just in case......