ToughButterCup

We had a visit from the OS (Ordinance Survey) . Nice old guy asked permission to survey us, and got on with it. Accurate to a few mm apparently. So I jumped at the chance and asked him to survey our boundary wall. Which he did . That might well have avoided a few sets of solicitors fees in hundred years time then innit?

Okay folks, explain this then... Our Uniq12 was refusing PV yesterday evening ( it reported via the Eddi- 'Max Temperature Reached') . In other words it had reached its heat storage capacity (14 kWh) This morning- bright sun, one shower, (3 kWh) max, the SunAmp is accepting power from the diverter. It cannot have been 75% depleted. No other hot water was used overnight.

Investigate the build concept : Fabric First Decide on your Risk Appetite. Take holidays in houses of different types Choose the right partner. Spend many hours reading BuildHub.

Now we know the truth. You've never mixed concrete and thus lost yer fingerprints have ya? Ha! Gottcha! Busted!

ah, but for an 'h' ......?

Ahhhh, my mistake then ... do explain.....

SunAmps linked to PV supply make you guess, don't they? ' Course, if you don't wanna guess, you press Boost on yer Eddi (a PV diverter) . But that's the coward's choice. The game is get the maximum out of the sunlight available to make sure that TwinkleToes bath is as warm as she wants. We've a 12kW Sunamp, a bath and a couple of showers. Normal hotwater use for two old fuddy duddies. Decent drop of sunshine recently: time to build up a 'feel' for how much power our Eddi shunts to our SunAmp. And then there's how much water we've used . Take one from the other and you've cracked it A bath a day is about 5kW (right @SteamyTea ?) A shower, 3kW or so: that makes 11kW a day - two showers one bath. Plus a kilo Watt to scrub a grandchild half way clean. 12kW. Bingo. So, if our Edward ( or, Eddi - why can't they spell it right ?) tells me that SunAmp's up to temperature, all will be well in the ToughButterCup family. But life ain't like that is it? Why oh why oh why cant SunAmp tell us how much power is left and available to heat the PCM in the SunAmp eh? I mean, it can tell Eddi that it cant take any more PV power, so why not tell us how much is left? I mean a SunAmp - any bloody SunAmp - ain't cheap now is it? Disgusted of Lancashire

If @Onoff sounds like he's sucking his teeth, @Tony K, it's marginal. But, I'm not - definitely not - saying you should not try.

Sparkies are good at stuff like that: fiddle with your system (whatever it is doesn't matter) and in our case has managed to defrost a freezer (*king 'ell I was cross) put two switches on our SunAmp where one used to be OK, left one switch on, t'other off - why should I tell the customer eh, tell me that now - freezing bloody shower arrive with a second export meter '... gorra fit this merrrt... ' only to see he'd already fitted one last year and always, but always leaves one or more circuits breakers 'off' and leaves the site gurning like an eejit, I shouldn't wonder.

Your screen name wasn't @Onoff at one time was it? 'Cos if it had been, I'd say yes, you might get away with it. Until you actually opened the door: you feel its weight, its heft, the way it goes clunk. One of ours is mostly glass - everyone comments on it. And the lady postie has seen more of me than she bargained for (or I for that matter ?) Its a feel thing as well as what it looks like.

1. I have bought 2. Yes. 2. I doubt it. I say that becuase of my experience of all the little bits of the door : hinges, striker plate, embedded glass, locking mechanism - they're all vastly superior to a standard timber door. And vastly more expensive. Vastly.

Yes, 10mm. No. Whassapoint? Had a Pest Control company come and give us advice. He pointed to the building across the field: exactly the same construction but with 30mm gaps. The membrane is Tyvek (summatorotherthatsbloodyexpensive) Quattro, and the bottom membrane is a lead replacement called Ubliflex.

That's the only way. JustBloodyDoIt - habit forming, wholesome, frightening. Satisfying.

@Temp, could you point me to the relevant legislation please. Thanks

Here is a list of vidoes which might well help you Framing a block wall This video should help with that issue Its more complex than that. This is the video, one of a series which covers your questions Door framing's not so complex.... but its nitty gritty YooChoob's your friend. Good luck. Ian

I don't know what happens long term, but this , as written, is a clear breach of Planning Law. One phone call is all it needs - locally anyway. Ring the Council Enforcement Officer. The wheels will grind - they maybe slow, but they will grind.

There ya go folks.... us mere mortals make our way to Screwy's or a local Shed and buy stuff. Dave scours the Scottish countryside for bits and makes his own inverter. Still, look on the bright side, @MrsProdave is missing: some knitting needles, a large quantity of sewing pins, the face on the kitchen clock, the battery from her watch, the copper wire she uses for her jewelry making class, the phone charger that used to be on her side of the bed and her best Tupperware waterproof box. One day, our Dave is going to get caught, just like they always catch the miscreant on Line of Doody. Eventually.

How on earth do you do Due Diligence on a project like that? How many levels of unknowables are in play? Ahhhh, that'll be it then. Brexit.

Thanks. I think. Are my knees up to the challenge? ?

Do I need to put a counter batten lower than the one in this photo? Apologies for the dreadful photo: the bottom of the (faded) blue batten is 300 mm below the counter batten. The bottom of the cladding will be about 300 mm below the counterbatten in the photo. On the rest of the wall, I'm spacing the counter battens at 400 mm centers This TDCA image shows 600 centers...

How do you arrive at that conclusion, Dave?

@nod has forgotten more than I'll ever know about this subject. But I do know a bit about joists (and how to get them wrong) - I put my own POSIs in . A 1 mm gap - locally (Lancashire) known as a gnatt's bollock - is an excellent result. Glued and screwed to 22mm boarding will be fine. I've seen 5mm gaps at POSIs put in at 600mm centres and 17mm boarding. They didn't flex..... Relax. Think of England Harry and St George.

Well, @SiBoyle, if yer man says so, then you are not alone . Good to know innit? ?

I would love to be expert enough to answer your question. At best I might have a little time today to speed read myself into drafting a hesitant answer. Can you provide links to supporting documentation please, thanks. Cladding calls. Oh joy!

Ask the other half of .. we .. All technical considerations aside, what you are considering is extremely wearing. Starts as fun, demands more time than you'll have, insists on constant support-tinker-fettling-glueing, worries you when windy, and drips - ha! drips - they're always over your side of the bed. Your half of we will need support - so what does the other half of we think? No need to answer; its just that mine has a unique, quiet insistence just as I'm into another of my 'yeah-we-can-do-this' fizzing episodes.