Russell griffiths

Look into a company called triton, they do all liquid type membranes, painted on and then screed over the top. the weak areas will be your details at junctions.

Nope, drill the holes in the foundation, minimal needed as it’s not a basement, resin fill and fit some short starter bars.

Cut the bottom two treads off, prop the stairs and make a plywood box for temporary access chuck the plywood box outside while you dig and concrete. when repairing the stairs you could re shape the bottom two treads to give you a nice big bull nose bottom step or something like this. I bought a new staircase and purposely made it two stairs high so I could tile under it and we hadn’t decided if to have a bull nose bottom step or more modern square look.

Ditch all your previous ideas. go and look at some ICF block ideas. either build that entire wall out of icf blocks, or build one or two courses as high as you need. build them up from your ground beam to the height you need and core fill with waterproof concrete. then tank the outside as though it is below ground level, you can either carry on and build your TF from the top of the icf or continue up in icf. if you continue up in icf you can pour every couple of courses and reach over to apply a waterproof render to the outside as you go up. also, why is your floor stepped, can you not lift the lower floor up to match the higher portion, not clear in the photo why it is stepped.

Do you mean packed the frame in the brick work, or packed the glass in the frame.

You can buy lots of things, doesn’t mean they meet building regs. that’s a tight door in a modern house nowadays 838mm on every opening here. Except one cupboard.

I don’t have any brickwork to marry up with windows or doors, just icf. So the rough opening was 30mm larger than the door in the first place.

I have a couple of heavy doors i fitted a rip of 12mm ply the same thickness of the frame directly to the frame, as a packer, I then cut a rip of 18mm ply the same width of the frame and the internal reveal. I used the 18mm ply as a full length bracket, you can fix anywhere you need, lots of fixings at hinge areas. the 12mm packing ply is the exact thickness of plasterboard, so you can plasterboard straight on to the 18mm covering the fixings and it will sit perfectly gapped all around the frame.

There’s a product called JACKOBOARD it’s an insulation board that can be plastered onto using the right primer. you can get it in multiple thicknesses, if you bought say 20 mm thick you cut it to size and put it in the reveal, give it a thump with your hand and the brackets will leave an imprint in the back side, cut out the imprint and the board will sit over the brackets. you need to talk to the plasterers about correct positioning, to line up with there finished skim. the board can be fixed on with rapid set tile adhesive or a good quality no nails type stuff. just one way to do it.

I would only ever use one directly from the wc, so visable, I’ve seen a few pics of them being attacked by rodents, the theory was they let light through them so a rodent in the pipe thinks it’s an escape route and chews through it. have seen two pictures of this recently on a plumbers talk group. if you are remodelling both bathrooms there must be the chance to chase the soil pipe back to run it in where you need it. ?.

Try Beswick stone in Cirencester. they have a very good selection of stone in store. might not be exactly what you want but worth a look.

I would not be putting any form of flexi waste in a place I can’t get to.

I have used nails on a plastic strip. nearly every nail ends up sinking in with a chunk of plastic jammed under the head, ok on rough work but not on finished article.

Deleted, probably not relevant

The ones I looked at where £7000 ish. I decided against one.

The quarry dig stuff out the ground, they wash it and sell it to builders merchants as sand, gravel, ballast the chances are they have a bagging plant which bags it to sell to wickes and places like that, a good chance they will have a concrete plant either at the quarry or set up a short distance away. they are making double the money if they don’t actually buy in the raw materials, but it comes from their own hole in the ground. if you do a list of 30m ready mix for footings 20m of ready mix for floor slab 40 tonne of type one under floor 20 tonne of screed 10 tonne of bricklaying sand blah blah blah you will get a better price than just being some Joe who just wants some concrete. have a drive about and do some networking. .

That’s about right. have a ring around for that quantity. open an account at the local quarry/ agregate supplier, write a list of everything you will need and ask for prices against your list.

If I was to build mine again I would use a thin render base coat on the entire house, under the cladding and on all the window reveals before fitting windows and cladding.

Get an eps rasp, big flat thing that you rub all over the joins to flatten them, then a stiff broom to take of the loose bits. the base render sticks like shit to a blanket. ,I have actually tried to rip sections off by grabbing the fibre glass mesh, very hard to pull off. if I was building an icf house again I would render the entire house, including window reveals, everything, even areas under cladding, just to protect the eps from stuf and to allow tapes and glue to stick to it.

Triton TT gas and water liquid membrane.

Why. don’t do it crazy idea the correct thin coat system will be cheaper, by the time you factor in the stainless mesh and the screws, then the labour to fix it, then you need a good team to render it flat. the thin coat systems are really flat and accurate and have been purposely designed for eps. sorry silliest idea I’ve heard this week.

I’ve been doing this one 6 years, it’s just like a full time job without any wages. 😂😂

Better off using block n beam with a structural concrete topping, no steel to rust away, nothing to temporarily support while you concrete it.

Isn’t it easier to build it correctly in the first place. seems like a quick fix for a problem that shouldn’t exist

Apart from the joint that connects to the outlet pipe which is solvent welded the rest you access from the top theres not much to maintain just a hair trap to empty and that’s it really.