Russell griffiths

I obviously don’t know what type and size of house you are building. but I would not take the cable inside to a cupboard unless this is going to be a dedicated service cupboard that all your cat 6 cables go back to. I’ve just had all my internet data stuff installed in the house and we are very low tech, but we still had something like 13 cat 6 cables feeding back into this area. much easier to get it all put in the dedicated plant room or where the consumer unit goes.

She sounds like your ex wife.

With most things in life you need to add in a big chunk of common sense 400mm below the lawn= pea gravel and backfill 400 below a pedestrian path = pea gravel + compacted type 1 then path 400below vehicle traffic = pea gravel, then a concrete covering spanning the width of the trench and continue onto solid ground. most shallow pipes are near the house, they obviously get deeper the further they travel, so being only 400 deep by the time you get around the front of the house is rare. normally very shallow near back of house, I’ve seen plenty with only 100mm concrete cover and then paving.

If you have a whole house to renovate then you are probably better of getting a battery system for everything. keep the 12 volt one for kitchen fitting and poofy stuff like that. get 4 18 volt batteries, get an impact driver, a drill driver, an sds drill, and a circular saw. this will more or less build a house until you come to delicate fitting out, then you can add a plane and router and sander, by then you will probably have added another couple of batteries.

Easy peasy. now just think if you had your own machine how much would you have saved. 😉 go and tell the wife.

Do you have cordless battery tools as well. I have a large 240 volt sds drill and an 18 volt dewalt battery sds. I cannot remember the last time I used the 240. Battery sds for the last 5 years building an entire house.

Send him on his way.

Take a better picture to show us.

Icf is not considered non standard construction any more, mortgage is not a problem. timberframe rotting at the sole plate is down to poor detail and design, it was a thing in 1980, but not now. lots come on here and ask for some details at the sole plate, then choose to ignore it because of cost. You can’t help some people. ask here for correct design and then price up the methods. don’t try to reinvent the wheel, it’s all been thought of before. having worked on half a dozen new builds in the last few years I would not hesitate to use a high quality timberframe on an insulated raft foundation, but i would put a block skin around it, even if adding cladding.

You need to zoom out on the pictures can you get a straight edge and put it up from side to side. and from the brickwork above coming down onto the new brickwork.

In a former life I was a bricklayer, I remember doing a job to clad a concrete car park in brick, the brick continued over the openings in a soldier course. there was no catnic lintel instead a very thick 10-12mm stainless steel angle was used, this was bolted back to the concrete structure. the brick soldiers had a groove cut into them that fitted around the steel. This can probably be explained better by @Gus Potter ive recently done some stone cladding on my place and did something similar @GEO-PAR not sure if this is any help to you. large angle instead of a catnic recessed into the back of the stone. poor picture I’m afraid

Using stone as an external skin sounds fine, it’s the bales and lime render on the outside I didn’t like the sound of. straw bale house wrapped in traditional stone, why not, now it’s explained a bit more it seems perfectly reasonable.

I did some very rough analysis I asked for large samples of 3-4 manufacturers, 1 wouldn’t send it so they got dumped the others I chucked on my driveway way and proceeded to walk on them every time I came home and parked the car. I did this for 2 months and checked the damage, I discounted one I didn’t like and got quotes from the other 2. I didn’t pick the cheapest but went with what I thought was a good product with good people to deal with.

These soleplate fixings are only really to locate it while building, you should have some form of hold down strap at locations specific to what you are building. why the lintels, does it span over a pipe.

If you can build the ramp, then why build steps.

I looked on e bay and Facebook, found a lad on Facebook who has a yard full of them, located near Swindon if anybody wants one. he also has miles of underground ducting.

Have they puta damp proof tray above the lintel, some spec of lintel doesn’t require one, but either way there should be weep vents on that outer face to allow any moisture in the cavity to come out. as far as the brickwork goes it’s pretty rough. Either the lintel didn’t fit the cavity correctly, or they didn’t want to clip the back corners of the bricks to get them to sit back far enough.

It’s a whopper.

Picture of floor slab from above. location of heat pump outside location of tank or tanks inside distance between the two things. elevation sketch of rooms pipework has to pass through.

Yep.

Don’t do it, silly idea, leave it to the idiots on some random tv programme. there are far better building methods out there. and far better things to use regarding your location.

You can’t just put any old pipe through under there, needs to be highly insulated. you could make you own up, but by the time you have done that you might as well have bought the right thing in the first place. better off with a drawing with distance on it to get a better answer.

As long as they are in the appropriate insulated pipe and conduit you can stick them where you want. if you price up the correct pipe you might find it far cheaper to run it internally.

Have a look for second hand ones. I’ve picked up two so far, £150 for a large one.

Your not really working at height, with it all scaffolded your only a meter higher than the scaffolding around the edge. no idea how long it took can’t remember really 3-4weeks at a guess.