Russell griffiths

Is there a reason you have gone with a private company i have been very very impressed with the good service I have received from our local council bco.

I was talking to nudura about them today you would need to call them and find if they have a site near you as transport is evil they are based in Essex quote to me was £1 per prop per day.

Personally in any timber frame structure I would want to form a fully sealed pan/tray type afair, look on you tube lots of examples just a piece of damp course will be no use without having fully sealed corners you should also look at having a slope on the timber frame to allow any water run off to shed outwards. If you look at some of the vids there is one train of thought throughout, at some time you will get water Ingres, so you need a form of protection.

From my point everything you have mentioned will not have heating pipes below them when you get the layout mark on it all the things to avoid and the ufh guy will design around them hope that makes sense. It sounded better in my head than it looks on the screen.

We plan on having shade sails, as we had these in oz. will probably only suit a modern build. Very funky.

Don’t get it on your re bar. Apply carefully.

Or you could

Any good.

If your thinking of a pump, just do it best money you will spend.

Yes no type one needed.

Do not underestimate the size and weight of the concrete truck. If you have a concrete drive to come up it WILL break it, if the ground is wet it WILL sink you need a solid roadway up to you site. Or you WILL-make a mess

Ok couple of things. If you are going to order extra, try to have another job where you can use it. Small slab for mvhr to sit on path down to shed path between vegi beds if they take it away they will charge you more for disposal than it cost to supply. Post up a pic of your site and we can tell you how you are getting it in the trenches.

I would think your slabs on top of the wall will need wet solid bedding, and all fixings pass through and into the brick work. I would be very thoroug on filling all those holes with a good strong mix to try and avoid any voids.

I had a very good price from polarwall.

Just don’t do this.

Alow mate, got a new billed apenin in a cuppla weeks gunna need a good few cube, bout 40 I rekon then the floor screed, yer loads to do what’s ya best on that, Cubs I asked that uver mob darn the road like and they sed 75 squid a cube what ya rekon fella. This his works best sarf of Watford. Not sure how well it would go down in sunny Yorkshire.

Thanks chaps.

My main supply will come in under my block n beam floor it will be in a duct to allow for it to pass up through the block n beam and into the plant room, it will be ducted all the way to the outside and then down to the correct depth to allow for frost protection would anybody insulate it in this duct, what is the temperature likely to drop to under the block n beam i thought I could insulate the part entering the duct for about a metre and the bit that exits the duct through the floor, I was thinking the duct would give adequate protection against freezing. What you reckon people.

Hi @Pete what sort of angle did you use. And where did you buy.

@Alexphd1 watch the vid.

If you look at this vid @Vijay you will need to watch about 3/4 through Charlie has a fibreglass angle fixed to his slab, any views on this. Some of that fancy insulation from the green store is eye watering expensive.

I completely agree it is an unregulated shambles BUT If it was all fully regulated with warranties on everything you wouldn’t want to pay the correct price. You would then then have a thread saying why is everything so expensive.

Will try and add a bit more to see if there’s any opinions out there would a high density xps be hard enough to sit a sliding door on looking to eliminate a cold bridge under a sliding door and the only two ideas I have come up with are marmox blocks or sheet xps cut to size.

We had quotes of £15000 upwards so they all got the heave ho went with a retired architect who is more like a draftsman really, charges us £25 per hour thought a couple of grand would sort it, we have spent £5000 so far and think another couple will be in order before we are finished. Do you have planning consent already? if not I think your £1000 idea is very unlikely we have designed it all on a programme we have at home and just got the architect to put it into cad format, even so there are many hours of changes and re,design

So I better check if we have a problem before I presume we do 1- what would be a good pressure, flow rate at my plot 2- how do I measure this i have 32 mm mdpe sticking out at the plot so will need to connect to that.