JamesP

Yep, a race to the bottom and we are winning. Their is a lower and standard rate depending on qualifying materials.

Correct, most composite doors have a solid timber / foam core surrounded by uPVC.

You would need to check the lipping amount on each vertical edge. Our internal doors have 6mm lipping. External doors are usually constructed using solid strips / blocks of timber but you would need to check the door spec on each stile. You probably need to move / replace the door stops depending on thickness of replacement.

Rough, you need an architect.

Good question as LVT does require space for expansion especially if in direct sunlight. As SWMBO changed their mind I then laid LVT on top of the tiles up to the legs as I had already installed the kitchen units. Ask the flooring company why.

Not a professional tiler but tiles first, @nod will confirm.

Good job but probably need vertical support underneath. I have same issue to resolve, no access underneath. What is the final finish, paint / carpet ? I will probably remove some of the riser or tread to fix verticals underneath. It's on the list.

What is the distance between the supply and extract of the MVHR, mine are 2 metres apart with the extract above the supply. Would move it to another wall or 2 - 3 metres above ASHP, if possible.

Your expectation from the AC guy is probably accurate, if not doing yourself then a high quality carpenter / decorator required, High quality fees will apply. Do post final outcome.

I would remove enough plasterboard and move the MVHR extract up the wall closer to the ridge, would need an extension for the ducting, etc. Fit some additional noggins between the existing frame to support the inverter. Just a bit of work but worth it.

That is an image from google. I battened then counter battened before fixing cedar. Only 50mm gap here. I assume you will use larger timbers. I think it most cases the timber frame would have been designed to accommodate the overhang. Can the gable end fascia / soffit fit the extra 200mm?

From a practical point of view running the cladding proud would help keep water off the top of the stone work and clean edge. Do a quick search, mostly forward of stone work. Lots of great examples.

I would be inclined to run the cladding above the cill height as the horizontal line would be very dominant.

I did tape all OSB joints as well. The VCL was fitted to the timber frame using double sided tape. This was to prevent the warm air migrating to the insulation. All works well, have been using about 1200 - 1400kWh per year for heating in a 275 sqm home. Mild winters though. We can cope during the day but night was a challenge. Would consider Solar glass and external blinds next time. The AC is great especially if you have PV. Perfect timing from Gus, On top of the 200mm rafters I counter battened 70mm C16 to then fix the Fibre board and add another layer of insulation. Every external wall and roof had 11mm OSB fixed on the inside before batten and plasterboard. That was our racking layer.

We have a metal seamed roof so on +25c days we overheat in the summer months in the 1st floor bedrooms, I think mainly because we have zero shade and the building gets 16 hours of direct sun during the peak summer months. I plumbed for AC. We have T&G fibre board over both roof and walls, would not build any other way now. I put the VCL inbound between the insulation and OSB, lot of attention to detail and plenty. of airtight tape.