Nestor

Is the cill part of the actual window frame? My cills were separate to the window with 10mm upstands at the back and sides. Slotted into a grove within the bottom of the window frame. The cedar cladding reveal then butted up next to the upstand at the sides with a small gap to allow water to escape. Photo enclosed, it's bucketing down at the moment.

Yes, 6mm + 4mm for the ceiling curve. All depends on the radius and how much pressure you can apply before fixing. Birch ply was only treated with clear osmo oil. I had to create a very tight curve above some stairs and cut lines on the back of the plasterboard, it did work.

I had a 10.5m steel for the ridge and did not want to just box it in. So made a frame, similar to a skateboard halfpipe, covered in red faced plywood, then glued and pinned 4mm birch ply. Have two long pendant light fittings, one over island, other over dining table. Your friends might well be right. Will try and find recent photo.

I have a similar size home, about 800sqm needed skimmimg. It was a job for a highly skilled professional and really appreciated the quality of the final result. I did all the plaster boarding and fitted our main ceiling of 60sqm in birch plywood. I used a wind up lifter for the high ceilings. It is a big task. Back in 2018 I paid £7.00 per sqm, I supplied all the tape, plaster and beading. Pick a number a double / triple it?? Window reveals need to be included. Get some quotes for whole job. @nod will share same advice.

@Iceverge I do like this roof build up, similar approach to our roof, I have included drawings including my fibreglass flat roof. The drawings were all done by hand using Rotring pen! These are screen grabs. 200mm Rafters with Rockwool 75mm counter batten with Rockwool 35mm Isotherm T&G Breather membrane 25mm Batten for air gap Standing seam metal roof On the inside of rafters Vapour. barrier 11mm OSB 25mm Batten Plasterboard

Had some very minor domestic renovation experience but achieved possibly 90% of our self build. Paid professionals for electrics, plaster skimming, ASHP, window installation and screed. It is doable, time, money, quality consideration. 3 years before we moved in and 6 years later fitting final architrave ready for repainting!! Has been an amazing experience, learnt so much and the amazing contributions from Buildhub. My Dad, 75 years at the time helped me with the stick build. Would look at other build methods in the future.

@JohnMo Just a quick one but what are your thoughts on the actual volume of the property as well as floor area as no consideration for differing ceiling heights. Could volume be part of a heat loss calculator? Is it relevant?

We have HS330, triple glazed timber / aluminium lift sliding door. A lot of timber in the doors and no condensation except outside on certain days. No problem with the fixed seals. Not an expert but would say fitting error. Like you the fitters and some parts of manufacturers were poor quality. Disappointing. Add to the list.

Why build and restrict yourself to 3 metres depth with PD? Need to go full plans.

Not an expert but have similar thoughts about where the internal floor build up meets the external walls, no sufficient thermal break visible to me. I fitted 20mm Pavatherm reveal boards in the window apertures, timber frame build. Not suitable under large doors due to compression so used 25mm plywood. Walls are 390mm deep.

Thanks Nick, this was just an internal cupboard but do understand the principle. Thought that these perimeter strips were more to allow for expansion and stopping the screed escaping, the external walls are 420mm wide! Have a great Christmas.

I have enclosed a shot, it is inside a hall cupboard! I fitted 150mm celotex tight to the walls, taped all the joints, fitted plastic sheet, taped then UFH. The perimeter edge insulation has an adhesive strip on one side which fixes to the upstand / wall and polythene apron which lies on the floor. Just need to make sure the screed cannot escape. Hope that helps.

I installed similar worktops in 2006, very pleased with them. The final surface was a smooth as glass. Once in use the minor blemishes will hopefully become less relevant. Easy to maintain, every couple of years I would rub down with wire wool / sandpaper and reapply with a cloth. I did test the 3068 but found the white pigment interfered with the actual colour of the wood, this was a few years back.

Clicked on the link expecting details about U values and weather compensation curves. Lovely surprise. Best landlord .