Russdl
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Everything posted by Russdl
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Yep, truly inspiring and a very impressive final result. (How come the architect hadn’t spotted that they needed 15 degree roof pitch for their skylights?)
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Zinc angled standing seam.
Russdl replied to Makeitstop's topic in House Extensions & Conservatories
Absolutely correct and something I was going to mention when I got round to digging out the m2 price because that won’t include all the marine ply and breather membrane our zinc is laid on. But the substrate detail holds true for any of the choices I would have thought. -
Zinc angled standing seam.
Russdl replied to Makeitstop's topic in House Extensions & Conservatories
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Zinc angled standing seam.
Russdl replied to Makeitstop's topic in House Extensions & Conservatories
@Makeitstop we used zinc for the roof, cladding to some of the first floor and some corner details. We had planned on using Tata Steel and did their one day course, however with the Tata system we were going to struggle with some of the more intricate details and their communication was poor so we made an 11th ish hour switch to VM Zinc, and mighty glad we did. Had we gone with Tata the full length roof panels would have been delivered to site, we have difficult access so each sheet would have been carried from a flat bed 200m up a track. The zinc was done by one man in a Ford Transit. He unloaded his folding machine, unloaded a big roll of zinc, ran it through his folding machine and produced a custom roof sheet in a very short space of time. He hand made all the fiddly bits plus all the window reveals in such a way that the reveals could be removed at a future date to gain access to the inner workings of the exterior blinds should the need arise. It has once already. More expensive I’m sure but the custom element was invaluable to us. That was a bit long and rambling but in a nutshell, yes, glad we used zinc. Ours is very dark, bordering on black, it makes almost no expansion noise when the sun hits it, it can get very hot to the touch and cobwebs on a frosty morning stand out like a dogs danglies. I shall endeavour to work out a m2 price for you when I have a mo. -
Hello @Barn Becs. You’ll find more information and help on here than you could possibly believe, you’ve come to the right place. Good luck with your project. Where in the world are you?
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Fire Rated Air Valves for MVHR
Russdl replied to Russdl's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
My specific concerns regard the air valves in the downstairs rooms (lounge, kitchen/dining, study) that have habitable rooms above (bedrooms). I really should go back to the BCO but he's been hugely vague over most things and as this will be outside of his sphere of expertise I'd like to be able to work it out for myself.- 3 replies
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- fire rated
- air valve
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Question is, do I need fire rated MVHR valves anywhere? I can't discern it from Approved Document B, but I guess it's in there. I can't find the answer here, but I guess it's probably here as well somewhere. I asked my BCO a while ago, he didn't reply. Before I try him again, I'd like to know. Is there a simple answer? Do we or don't we? Are there rules of thumb?
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- air valve
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That’s nothing I’d given a great deal of thought to, in my situation I think decking lights in the wall behind the bath would be a lot more difficult to replace than an LED strip on the floor behind the bath, which in itself may be a tad tricky. LED strip it is.
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@Onoff ??? (I had to Google it)
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@Onoff hmmmm. Perhaps we’ll change our elec UFH...
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And there’s me worrying about water proof connections for 12V lights ?
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It looks like you just vomited up a whole heap of Scrabble tiles!
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Can't wait!
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@Onoff don't you go muddying the waters after @TonyT & @PeterW have provided some clarity for my befuddled head. Next thing @ToughButterCup will be back hawking candles!
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It wasn't going to be, but I think it can, thanks again.
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@PeterW I've just been looking through their website, looks good. You have saved hours of fruitless Googling I reckon, thanks a lot. At the moment the cable is coming out of a plasterboarded wall about a foot off the ground, it's about to be tiled over but I still have time to move the cable and with that profile you linked to I would need to move it down to ground level. Not a problem, but then I have to connect it to the LED strip essentially on the floor of the bathroom where it will definitely get wet. I haven't browsed those links long enough to see if there is a suitable connector for that situation. do you know if there is or how that join should be done?
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Why not indeed! That looks really good. Cheaper than those decking lights and probably around the same price as a slack handful of decent candles. So, if I understand correctly the IP65 strip gets attached to my (in situ) grey cable and when I find the other end of the grey cable, a transformer is connected to that and Bobs yer uncle? Is there any limit to the length of the grey cable? I guess the grey cable has a much more technical name. (Ah. Just spotted the more technical name for the grey cable T&E, twin and earth?)
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@FraserK Thanks for the reply. I will get an electrician to do what is required. The grey cable is already in place from first fix and iirc correctly the other end is up in the loft space (I'll have to check tomorrow). Am I barking up the wrong tree? Can you get the patio lights that I'm looking at that are 240V? Or is there a better solution for little lights behind a bath that are likely to get wet?
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+1 to that question. What's the issue there? Crud building up behind them blocking drainage?
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The boss likes ToughButterCups suggestion re the candles. She ALSO wants lights behind the bath. So, back to my original question, can anyone advise on my original post regarding the decking lights?
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Hmm candles instead of complex (to me) and expensive LEDs. Not a bad idea, not a bad idea at all, and definitely cheaper. It reminds me of the American pen/Russian pencil story. During the height of the space race in the 1960s, legend has it, NASA scientists realized that pens could not function in space. They needed to figure out another way for the astronauts to write things down. So they spent years and millions of taxpayer dollars to develop a pen that could put ink to paper without gravity. Their Soviet counterparts, so the story goes, simply handed their cosmonauts pencils. Apparently not true, but as I was once told, never let the truth spoil a good story. Anyway, as we already have a cable poking out of the wall I'll explore all possibilities.
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Our bath will be freestanding, maybe about 50 - 100 mm away from the wall at most. We wanted some LED lights on the wall behind and below the bath for the occasional chilled out soak . Our M&E guy was going to send us a link to some lights that he thought would do the job well but we didn't get that. I'm pretty sure that something like this is what he had in mind. They are decking lights and IP67 rated. It seems like a great idea to me but how would we do it? I know almost zip about electrickery. At the moment we have a grey cable coming through a hole in the plasterboard that is for LED lights. Do we just: 1. Cut the string of lights off from the transformer. 2. Join that string of lights to the in situ cable. 3. Find the other end of the in situ cable and attach the transformer to that. 4. Plug in. Switch on. Chill out? Or is it way more complicated than that? Help appreciated ?
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@SteamyTea check the post above yours ?
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@dnoble I’m no plumber, though I suspect I’m going to have to learn fast. This is our set up, sadly still not up and running after many months so I can’t comment on its efficiency or otherwise. The Willis heaters are on the right of the picture with a grey buffer (or is it expansion?) tank above it. The UFH manifolds are hidden behind the non commissioned sunamp.
