Russdl

Yep, if you’ve forgotten a bit and all else fails you can just scrunch it into a ball and stuff it in the gap.

Here's a detail of the insect mesh under the window cill. Basically do what ever you can with whatever you've got to seal every possible hole that an insect may exploit. It's a labour of love.

Definitely don’t leave a gap and don’t leave anything that could become ‘gappy’ over time. Any gap, no matter how small will be exploited. I’m trying to remember exactly how I did ours. IIRC correctly I attached the mesh to the timber frame, then the battens and folded the mesh over the top of the battens and secured the mesh with a counter batten so, to cover a 25mm gap I needed probably 75mm of mesh. I’ll see if I can find one of my drawings which may make it clearer.

We used stainless mesh and staples from a BM, but lots available on line. Just imagine you are a wasp 🐝 and do whatever it takes with what ever you have to ensure that when you have finished that wasp can’t get behind your cladding. Rest assured if you leave a gap a wasp and all its friends will find it. There is no right or wrong way because every build will be subtly different, just make sure there are no tiny gaps when you’re done. If you do buy the mesh wear gloves or be prepared to smear your blood all over the place.

I did a lot of research into the Komfovent when I was looking for our MVHR, sadly because I’m a goldfish I can’t remember the specifics but I do recall concluding that the Komfovent was not the way to go for us. Something to do with the rotary wheel system and its efficiency - or lack of, in a domestic setting. It may be worth researching rotary wheel MVHR pros and cons before you head in that direction. Sorry I can’t be any more specific. Probably an age thing.

What’s the road situation? Highways may have a lot to say re driving in and out in a ‘forward’ gear. Your plot shape brings to mind that amazing triangular house featured on Grand Designs a few years ago that was built on a very tricky plot.

Success!! I’ve got the dome thingy off 😃 I’m not sure if it will go back on again though, it didn’t come off without a fight. We have two of these taps, here’s the dome thingy from the other tap, the one that isn’t leaking. Incredibly thin material. And I’m delighted to say that the manufacturer is going to pop a new one in the post. I’ll keep a closer look out for a slow leak this time around.

@Don33e try SketchUp. It takes a bit of getting used to if you unfamiliar but there are tons of YouTube vids to get you started.

Here you go, and if she can’t help she may well be able to point you to someone closer who can. Good luck. Jackson Planning Ah, I’ve just reread her website and she does the south of England but stops at Sussex, it still may be worth getting in touch though, can’t hurt.

I have a hunch that you’ll remember that even without reminders 😅

Excellent news. Don’t put your faith in any other professional. Check them and check them again. Oh, and what ever you do, don’t forget the final CIL form when you’re finished 😱

Thanks @joe90 but that’s just a posh version of Marvin’s idea and it would just slip of the domed thing. It’s actually not dissimilar in size and shape to the bottom half of an egg.

No prizes to be awarded. I can’t get grips in deep enough to get hold of anything substantial and the domed thing is way to domed for Marvin’s plan to work. The domed piece is on its last legs now but the injuries are invisible when the tap lever is in place. I gave the manufacturer a call and hopefully they’ll send me a new dome thingamajig so that I can cheerfully destroy the stuck one in my efforts to remove it.

Thanks both, I’ll give those ideas a go later and award a prize to the winner 👍🏻

Looks like I’ve had a very slow leak from a bathroom mixer tap for a while and apparently all I need to do to stop it is tighten the brass nut behind the domed cover plate. The domed cover plate screws off, well it would unscrew if the corrosion (red arrow) didn’t have such a death grip on it. Any idea how I can break the corrosions grip on the domed piece without causing any more damage (yellow arrow) than I already have. The domed piece is very thin.

“The only thing coming to my mind over and over is letting down my wife and my 2 young children. These costs, and potentially not having a home at the end, is soul crushing.” I bet it is. As if self build wasn’t stressful enough for us novices.

What a nightmare. I, like you, had no build experience and when I first heard someone mention CIL I had absolutely no idea what they were on about. Fortunately for me I learned how important it was not to f*ck up the form submission from the predecessor of this Forum (not from the architect). It’s a kind of extortion isn’t it? They’ve got you on a technicality. One or two pieces of paper that actually say very little are a bit late arriving with the authority, submitting them now would change nothing but they won’t let you so you have to pay over a hundred grand. They are probably more than aware that it’s a newbie making a newbie mistake. I’m sorry I don’t have any constructive solution but it’s making my blood boil so I had to get it off my chest.

Surely that’s enough to have a pop at the architect isn’t it?

Good God. There must be some redress against the architect? Perhaps one of the architects on this forum can advise as I’ve no real idea what you can do about this frankly nonsense legislation.

If I were you I’d go straight to the planning consultant. Planning Consultants are frequently ex planners (ours certainly was) so it’s all a bit incestuous and they know the right words to use etc. Our planning was accepted without issues. In the same quaint-ish village as us, about 100m away as the crow flies, an application was being submitted for a similar contemporary house that would be tucked away out of site of the locals. One of the objectors actually hired the same consultant that we used to fight the application. The application was refused and it was amazing to read the Planning Consultants submission to object to the application which was pretty much the polar opposite of what she had written to support our application. My only dealings with her was for our planning app back in 2018 and she was one of the only “professionals” that actually did what she said she could do (but no guarantee) in a timely and efficient manner. According to her website she works anywhere in the south, I can send you a link if you like.

Next time then. Straight to the Plumbing Supplies place and restore that God like feeling 👍🏻👍🏻

Have you tried a Plumbing Supplies place instead of a BM? There’s one near me who are incredibly helpful and without whom I would have been lost on many occasions doing the sort of thing you’re trying to do now. They have huge stock stuff and every size and shape and thread imaginable.

FWIW. We have a Brink Flair, so not a dissimilar model to the Zehnder. Ours is sat in a warm loft space on a block of EPS without any kind of fixings. The MVHR has never moved and never transmitted any perceivable vibration.

Why is the door set so far out? It’s going to protrude beyond the timber frame. Our detail involved threaded bar into the slab which allowed a GRP angle to be bolted to the slab that took the weight of the door. That puts the door further back in the frame. I can post some detail when I get home if you’re interested.

Have you got two RCBO’s of the same rating? If so swap those around, that’ll test the RCBO.