puntloos

One of my smaller challenges is that I live in a pretty snobby neighbourhood. If someone can detect "cheapness" (perceived or real) they might scoff. But I do think that amtico tends to look absolutely fine so I'm not sure if I should care or not....

Philosophical silicone absinth thatched Or is this not the 'random terms in a row' game?

What would happen if we wanted to go porcelain after LVT? Would one put a thin layer of screed on the latex somehow?

Our builder brought up that Amtico requires a latex, or plyboord subfloor - Plyboard sounds again somewhat water-sensitive - Latex sounds hard to remove, should we ever want to go to another floor type. Has anyone tried to remove such latex stuff? Is it as hard as they say?

We don't, but even if we did, projector lifts have a bunch of downsides, in particular that the noise of the projector isn't shielded Agreed, the door is intended to stay mostly open.

Thanks both, overheating is being thought of, we have a few options. The projector breathes in at the front and pushes air out at the back, so we are probably going to supply air from the top-front (ceiling void, perhaps a small fan) and leave the back open into the kitchen.

So I've got a pocket door (in my design), separating livingroom from kitchen. there's a projector protruding above the door (ceiling height 2.70m allows this). There's cabinets above the door that can hide the bottom of the projector. On the livingroom side we do want the projector to be enclosed in something (fan noise) It looks this way. (ignore the projector for now) We have added storage: But, should we make the storage look like built-in and create a pocket tunnel by extending the wall surrounding the pocket door a little? And the core questions which one would you pick? What is the best solution? Or something else?

Yeah, the conversation drifted into internal walls back then, and that bit wasn't answered 215mm? That's.. a lot of block. No air gap between them?

FWIW at this point we went with slider doors. The reasons were: 1/ A lot more maintenance, of course(?) sliding doors offer a much more balanced load/weight, straight down, rather than trying to shear the frame out of the wall. 2/ Lower U-values/airtightness on the sliders. Our house is very bright so we need to compensate somewhat to hit passivhaus 3/ Somewhat cheaper

Reviving this thread after yeaaars.. (it's aliiiive).. So for livingroom wall: soundbloc plasterboard (15mm) block(100mm) vertical battens w/ rockwool (25mm) block(100mm) soundbloc (15mm) =255mm We'd prefer to cut it down a little, but is this - in principle - a very good insulating buildup? (assuming the SE agrees it'll carry enough weight)? (preference is 75mm blocks)

Hmm, that's a good point, my bath doesn't come with a thermometer. Maybe there's some way to drill a tiny hole in the bottom of the bath.. use some silicone.. You know, just to make sure your hot body temperature doesn't drop below 36C. Location of the hole is the difference between those two thermometers, @SteamyTea

You yourself look like you prefer it a bit rare? (I'll see myself out)

I'm surprised at that actually, since most 'standard' swimming pools aren't much more than 27C. Obviously you're moving furiously not to sink like a stone and all but still..

Hitting us with the science. Anyway on reflection I think the crucial point is that as long as the initial water is "just right" - 40-odd C - then there's a good enough time to cool to "too cold" - which I'm guessing is in the 33C area? @SteamyTea report back when done - what temp is just sliiightly too cold to be comfortable? But if indeed starting at 38 which is 'fine' then the drop might finish too quickly.

Thanks JohnMo, I think I'll first investigate this option

Interesting points here. Yes 65C water, as it exists in (gas-heated) cylinders is super hot and can certainly do damage, but - handwavingly, if you have a tub of say 35C water, to get it to 38C by using 44C water you need to replace (aka throw away) half of the bath. Heated bath is intruiging @joth but that particular one is certainly way too weird

Sorry not much to add here, I stopped my investigation when I ran up against the 'price wall' - but yes nobody was concerned with it being impossible to put a cylinder in a basement whih also depends on a bunch of pumps.

OK did a little more research: As per Approved Documents Cover Page, these documents contain: * general guidance on the performance expected of materials and building work in order to comply with the building regulations * practical examples and solutions on how to achieve compliance for some of the more common building situations So indeed they are not legally binding. Instead the actual law - Schedule 1 - Requirements item M4: Access to and use of dwellings, Category 1- visitable dwelling M4(1). Reasonable provision must be made for people to— (a) gain access to; and (b) use, the dwelling and its facilities It is abundantly clear that it's unreasonable to expect every single socket (especially those in effectively fixed use) should be accessible. Instead, a reasonable amount of sockets and switches should be at that height between 450 and 1200mm.

Yes, but that would be reasonable. The question is, how do I make sure that no stickler for paperwork trips me up on this. I could, I guess, preemptively put blank plates (paint over them) but it feels unnecessarily sneaky..

Just ran head-first into Accessible Building regulations in particular 1.18: "Switches and sockets, including door bells, entry phones, light switches, power sockets, TV aerials and telephone jacks [...] have their centre line 450-1200mm above floor level." While I somewhat agree with the spirit of this regulation, there are so many exceptions to this. - What about ceiling speakers. I want to put a wall plate at ceiling height to plug the speaker in. - Same story with my projector that's at ceiling level. I'm supposed to run network, power and HDMI down the wall to a group of 3 sockets at 1200mm? Seriously? My builder seems to want to stick to the letter of the law when I suggested a few sockets near the ceiling - @Jeremy Harris- do you have some reference/source/citation on that these documents are "a suggested way of doing thing that MIGHT comply with the law. They don't exclude other ways of showing compliance, nor are they a proscriptive set of regulations, they are only guidance." and how can I be somewhat comfortable that building inspectors won't give me too much grief on this? In particular - what does the actual law say?

'Shredder' is the name of your guitar?

That's really useful to know actually, thx.

Well, more specifically, I don't think it's a problem to throw a charging phone into your bath since the voltage going up and down the mobile cable is 5V and max a few amps over USB. Throwing a *charger* into the bath, or perhaps indeed running an extension lead with plugged in charger into your bathroom.. different story. And I *suppose* if your cable is wet and you get the charger itself wet, maaaybe it would run on the outside of the cable.. Still, how old and hardwired is your consumer unit that it doesn't cut out? My damn CU cuts out for no reason all the time (grr)

Anyway going back to one of my original question bits though: (ceiling level plugs for e.g. ceiling speakers) would you put plugs/sockets in a ceiling void, and then drill down into the livingroom, or would you just put the sockets in the actual living space?

All 3. But with regards to the human part, I don't have a proper shower downstairs and (currently) no way to get people upstairs, but I have a family member who - hopefully temporarily - can't do stairs. I suppose it's one way to sort it. But frankly I don't really need power in the bike rack+shower section, and the powered section is 1m away, so extension cords can work..