Cpd

The “wings” is the word I should have used when I talked about digging in the external insulation.

I am with @MikeSharp01 and do just the same, I have a fancy aluminium bar with inbuilt clamps that makes it really easy.

Put some photos up, if for no one else I also love the charm of old buildings and just keep on charging into these projects...... lost a fortune and most of my sanity...... the triangle window are the only specific local architectural feature in old buildings round here and I wanted to add some when I was repairing the walls, they are not actually windows in this instant, but sudo window with mirrors and lights..... just a bit of fun. Normally they would be low down and in more agricultural style buildings but as I said it was just a nod to there existence as most of the old buildings get knocked down and this heritage feature is lost......

you could look at external wall insulation that then linked into a warm roof ? If the walls have footings you could look at digging in the exterior insulation as deep as possible to help minimise heat loss, your still going to have huge thermal bridge at the bace of the walls that will make UFH a non starter and these cold spots will be a perfect place for condensation and then mould..... I wanted to keep my stone walls inside as they were lovely but in the end the only way to keep the heat in And not have condensation problems is to line them internally. I concentrated on making the outside walls the feature through carful pointing.

Silver tape does not work well if it being put onto wet studwork outside.... however if the studwork is 50mm you could use 100mm silver tape and that way it would span the stud and be sealed onto the Pir and if it failed on the wood then not a problem. Sure there will be other options!

Amazingly quick response from sse after I said the correct words as advised above. They were able to get a team out and to the ferry within 20 min and have now completed the work and heading of on the next ferry. The guys said it was totally buggered and unusual to see one in such bad shape ! A loose wire that must have been shorting for quite some time..... because the switch is in a shed that’s attached to the house right by a door that is open 24 hrs a day it has gone unnoticed....... all sorted now. Thanks gents.

Thanks chaps, got onto sse and they are going to send someone out ASAP will follow advise and limit load to lighting and monitor

So the lights have started to flicker and on investigation I have found a nasty short circuit buzzing / cracking sound from a box near the consumer unit, the wire from this box is warm ! it’s the dark brown box on the right hand side, it’s the very first thing the main cable goes into from the pole outside. is it SSE or local electrician that I contact. thanks cpd

What a great looking site !

Well no _____ the cost of the project was over one million I was the main contractor. When your using helicopters to bring all your materials in one million + is a tight budget.

Not quite but i won a UNESCO - Award of Distinction - built heritage projects over 1million dollars - but it was for a stone walking track I built ! Did take me six years...... but gave me the money to buy my site !

Ok, just let me know.

Yes there is a big covered over lean to out back that should work.

I have friends just outside Aviemore that I expect would be happy to take a delivery if I asked them ?

were these the ones you had problems with when the stainless steel rusted ? I may be remembering wrong ..... probably wrong as for £3600 a pop you want no problems!

Had a mouse die in my old cottage that I only used sporadically, it died within the Built in insulation of a big cooker....... every time you put the oven on it was apocalyptic..... cooker had to go much to my disappointment.

Sorry I know nothing about them, but if the roof can handle it then it would be a good opportunity to batten and counter batten, this would then leave you roof membrane intact without hundreds of nail holes, which happens on a traditional slate / sarking roof.

Yes it’s still necessary even with roof vents, they are cheep as chips in the big picture, just make sure you don’t use one that will become defective if it gets wet and then freezes This happens very easily and has happened to me twice !!!!! It literally makes the roof membrane useless! There are various recommendation on this forum from people like @Crofter and I think @ProDave but you want one that can withstand wet freezing conditions if there is ANY chance of this happening while the roof is open. CHECK THE SPECS. also when you decide to take the old roof coverings of it may be a good idea to add some false rafters in your gable ends to allow yourself to build eves as this really helps to get the water away from the gable end wall heads. I’ve done it and helped 3 friends do the same and will also do it on my main house when the time comes.

I think you mentioned this before and talked about replacing with slate...... I would strongly suggest you replace with corrugated iron or box profile or something light weight as the additional weight of slates on a roof like this may well cause structural issues...... it may have had slate on once but that was a long time ago and the timbers are now well past there best before date.... I expect with a little tlc the timbers will last another 100 years, I have worked on buildings like this where we ripped of the the first 6 foot or more of the sarking so that we could inspect all the joist ends, replace as needed and treat all the old ones and in one case replaced the wall plate without pulling the whole roof off....

Roof vents from the outside and the vented area below the ridge just before we cover it over with 250mm of PIR from below.

I installed 4 roof vents high up which will all help in keeping the air circulation high, my loft is only a small triangle that is below the ridge beam so I wanted as much air flow as possible. All the 50mm gaps below the sarking and between the rafters all vent into this space as do the soffit vents. You can really feel the air movement in each and every rafter bay. a roof membrane is a must as it’s your second line of defence if you get a leak, it will lessen air movement and this is why I put soffit vents In linked to the vented ridge area. I really went overboard on venting the old parts of the building but it’s working a treat.

it’s very likely that this additional stone is there to stop the roof blowing off ! You will probably find that where the roof joist fixes to the wall plate there is considerable rot in either the wall plate or the joists or both and that the actual fixing strength at this point is long gone. The additional stone will really help to secure the roof from up lift. Before the use of wall plates there would have been timber crucks ( lengths of large timber built into the stone walls) attaching the roof to the walls and stopping the roof from blowing away. You can remove this additional stone but you will need to add one or even two rows of noggins to strengthen the bottom of the joists and then LONG metal strapping attaching every joists to the wall. This will let the timber joists breathe better and also prevent your roof blowing away..... remember not to pull all the stone work away in one go, do half a dozen at a time so that the roof is never vulnerable if the weather changes..... it happened to a friend who did this exact thing while replacing a roof of similar vintage, new tin , tidied up wall heads, big wind and whole roof was on the lawn next morning. I am not an expert so do your own cross referencing.

I had something similar and it was due to damp......

It looks pretty terrible and the way the existing roofing felt has been badly ripped rather than cut is a worry, I like to leave a 25mm gap around the velux frame and the roof cut out and line this with PIR insulation, also as above the height and spacing in relation to the tiles is important.