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Declan52

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Everything posted by Declan52

  1. Under no circumstances are you allowed to move into a house if it has not been passed as habitable.
  2. Could you not cast a 150mm reinforced slab on top of the ring beam you will have when you tie all the piles together and concrete these up. On top of this put your 200/300mm of insulation and then finish with 75mm of screed.
  3. I done one beside a beach in Dundalk and no matter how many times I told the engineer the water would go no where as the tide was coming in he wouldn't listen. The water he poured in came out during the test.
  4. We used to do loads of percolation tests when we where doing site investigations. Loved it when it was stiff clay. Dig the hole and fill with water and then go to sleep in the van for an hr and the water wouldn't have dropped a bit. Easy money.
  5. It doesn't really take that long to prep as the only thing that needs covered up are Windows and the front/back doors. As glynn has said it's done before the sparks put anything in that you would usually have to tape of. There will be no internal doors or skirting either so just your door frames if you are going for oak that will need taped of.
  6. For a quick job and ease of movement around different points and the shere amount of different jobs that you can use them trestles are the winner. If they rock then the chances are not all of the legs are touching the ground maybe due to the legs being twisted. A bit of lath or a brick if they are really bad helps a lot. If you have them fully extended up you can wedge some masonry nails in the gap between the frame and the extendable bit to steady it up or tie blue rope from the top of one to the bottom of the other.
  7. Oh don't worry it's been banked and no doubt you will pay for it at some stage in the future.
  8. No problem.
  9. It comes like whipped cream. The chemicals it is mixed with just means it won't harden quick. A 24hr batch will last 48 hrs but it will need water added and mixed with a shovel. If you are going for having brick it will be much better as every mix will be the same. You won't get any colour differences in the beds. Plus you can also get coloured motar which looks good. Check your area and see if there are any lorries doing deliveries to sites near you and call in and speak to the foreman or the brickies themselves and they will let you know if it's good stuff.
  10. It comes pre mixed with a retarder in it so will last a day or 2 depending on what you want. It won't need much water added to it at all unless it's windy and it dries out slightly on the board. If you keep the board wet this stops it sucking water out of the motar. For frost you can get additives like kill Jack or a rapid hardener added which make the mix go of quicker.
  11. Yep if the bricks are too dry the motar won't stick to the bricks. You can put some water on the bricks but not too much as then you can get the white efflorescence that will stain the brick work. I was the same as Joe with my lightweight block. They take a lot of water and even more when you go to plaster them.
  12. They do a pink hairy type split tape. It would be similar to what old type scrim cloth was. It has half the tape with an adhesive section that you can stick to windows, doors, flooring, plasterboard and the other side you use a flexible adhesive to stick this to the wall. http://passivehousesystems.ie/product/winflex-airtight-window-tape/ http://passivehousesystems.ie/product/gerband-fortax-6400-airtight-sealant/ The company use to be called clean energy Ireland when I bought from them but they have rebranded to the passive House systems. Very good to deal with. I sent an email with what I needed and then a cheque and the goods arrived within a week.
  13. I also used the gerband tape and its very good.
  14. I moved a 3.3m 9inch concrete head this way. It's tight going but it works. It also it very good method for moving 3*2 concrete slabs.
  15. If you take the skip of a wheelbarrow you could set one across the frame and wheel it easy enough.
  16. Can the lorry that is delivering them get to at least 2 points on the build either front and back or both sides. If so a £20 note slipped in his hand will get you them set out onto your founds in a few piles. From then it's just carrying from the bundles across the level stones to where they are needed.
  17. Driving straight in and out is fine with a telehandler it's turning in soft ground that chews it up.
  18. Depending on what access is like you could either use a tracked digger or a telehandler. Have never seen a crane being used before for this job. An 8t digger would have a long enough reach to be able to set them on top of the founds where from there you can walk them to where they need to go. 4 people will be plenty for this. A telehandler will be able to reach much further but they can very quickly plough a wet site up.
  19. You have 3 months to get the form sent in but anything else you buy after your completion date you will pay vat on.
  20. Just don't forget that once that piece of paper is signed then you pay vat on anything else from that date.
  21. If it's only a year then use E7 to heat your water and a wbs with no back boiler to use when it needs to be on.
  22. if you put the work in now and spend the money on the fabric then you vastly reduce your heating needs. Then it's only the dhw that you need to worry about. I have ufh on the ground floor and rads upstairs. I heat a 350l thermal store using a wood pellet boiler with excess PV used as well. In the winter the pellet boiler is set to come on in the morning for 3 hrs. During this time I have the rads set to also come on for 30 mins to warm upstairs. Just my luck my wife and kids are cold people so they need heat in the morning to put their clothes on and brush their teeth. I used just over 1.5t of pellets this year which was £340. Your system should work just the same. You heat a large body of water and then use it for ufh/rads or for dhw. Won't matter if its oil or gas heating it up.
  23. Can you move the position of your wbs to somewhere more central so it will heat the whole house when it's lit. Mine will keep mine warm for over 3 days when it's lit. A wbs with a back boiler will need a lot more wood/coal as well.
  24. I just put in a standard heatmiser room stat. Yes I wanted to be able to change the room temp on my phone when I was driving home but in reality it takes maybe 2hrs for my slab to warm up and increase the room by a single degree so that aspect is never needed. I set my room temps when I moved in and they are more or less the same over 3 years later. 21 degrees in the living rooms and kitchens and 19 in the bedrooms and hallways. Ufh heating just works away in the background and won't need much attention once you have it set up. All that intelligent heading control stuff is class to look at and to show off when you have visitors but really do you need it. Keep it simple always works out best. These are the stats I have and at a £10 cheaper than @Nickfromwales reckons they do my job the very best. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heatmiser-PRT-Programmable-Room-Thermostat/dp/B000S0I2D4
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